OK... so basically i am leaning veryyy far to buying a set of these.

Forward Swing Mount Triple Master Cylinder Pedal - Aluminum: This pedal assembly operates the brakes and the clutch together in one unit and positions the master cylinders outside the firewall. It features all aluminum frame and arm construction with steel pivots, mounting studs and anti-skid pedal pads. Wilwood's clevis and pivot pin balance bar provide smooth and accurate settings of the brake pedal bias. It can be set and locked down with the jam nut, or attached to a remote cable for quick on-track adjustments.

Click on the product's part number to view the technical drawing and datasheet information.






I would like to know how different sized Master cylinders work to need a certain proportion valve... Ex. I have a 30/40 prop valve with a JDM ITR MC i think 1", when many track guys in the US run a 40/40 prop valve with a 15/16 or 1" master cylinder... my understanding is that if your MC is too small, it affects brake feel?.... very much in the dark on this topic...

And, a feature I like about this pedal setup is that you can adjust the brake bias for F/R, and mount a adjustable switch for on the track adjustments.

I imagine this would be very useful for T/A?

I am leaning more towards T/A setup with my car now and would like to know a but more about brakes.

 

If you get a pedal box then you dont need to run any prop valves because the pedal assembly already comes with a balance bar system. And you get rid of the old masters too, because now you will run one master for the front circuit and one master for the rear circuit. You still need to size the masters properly based on the size of the pistons you have and on the diameter and swept area of the disks.

Then you have to properly setup the master cylinders on the pedal assembly with the correct geometry so that you dont get crazy timing engagement issues, like engaging the rears before the fronts. You normally run a staggered setup on the length of the master push rods, but it depends on what size masters you have. Either way, its a lot of tech that you dont seem to be grasping yet so dont dive into it right away.

I wouldnt recomend getting that pedal box either, serious problems with hysteresis and some bias migration where the balance bar starts pivoting on the rear master. I would recommend a Tilton box, like a 600 series. Its a floor mount and its easier to install. But in all, installing a race brake system is just too much gorund to cover.

If you're really up to it and the car is a real race car, then I can help you with the math and setup of the system. Otherwise just keep what you have, get rid of the prop valve and install and manual prop valve and run a smaller master for better modulation at the limit.

Cheers.

 

Wow thanks for sush a great informative reply!

Well to be honest im just interested in learning more about brake systems and it all started by me being interested in a remote MC system, removing it from the bay for appearance reasons. Then as I read more and more on the possible solutions, more and more questions came into my mind regarding the subject. As im intestered in Time Attack cone dodging now, I thought the adjustable brake bias would be an asset.

But from your reply, I think its a bit too early for me to jump into a race brake setup, I will continue to read up on setups. Though, what you said about installing a manual prop valve interests me as to how exactly that works.

I have a JDM ITR Sedan (DB8) Real Deal with the 4 lug ITR brakes and calipers, 1" MC, I removed the ABS and installed a 30/40 prop.

 

Just remove that 30/40 thing you got there and install a Tilton prop valve on there. I would also suggest getting rid of the 1" master. Its too big and will give you very little pedal feel and modulation. Go down 1 or 2 steps to something like a 7/8 or smaller and that will bring you back some pedal feel and a little more travel for better modulation at the limit.

 

Thanks man!

One last question!!! Dont mean to annoy ya or anything bro! before I do the prop valve.

I have decided to delete the booster and get a Wilwood dual port, firewall mounted MC. I will go for something smaller than the 1", cuz my pedal feel really sucks right now with the 1" and i know i need smaller like you stated. It has a 50/50 F/R bias in its stock form.

If I T the front port to the front brakes... the front brakes will always have 50 % bias

Then install the Tilton prop before the rear T to adjust the rear brake bias to maybe 40% or 30% will test to where I feel comfortable.

Just curious on what is the factory brake bias, so I know kind of a range to start off with, as I dont want to throw the car out of balance.

Should I also install a djustable valve to the front brakes T? to allow more than 50% bias to the front?..

I plan to upgrade to the wilwood brake setup in the future and wud like my MC to be in preparation to work with it. this one:

"Fastbrakes can now offer a Wilwood 12.2 inch kit. The kit comes complete with the 12.2 inch slotted & drilled rotors, 4 piston aluminum calipers, pads, adapter brackets, AND the front braided lines! Special order part, allow 2-3 weeks for delivery. Requires at least 16 inch wheels 1997-2001 Integra TypeR"

thanks bro