Show yourself!!

Just got mine yesterday. With AEM or similar intake, DC sports header and some kind of exhaust what kind of increase in HP are we talking about?

I am always searching for the truth!!!

 

10-20hp, auto or stick?
jon

edit: maybe more HP, there are alot of variables to play with....


[Modified by Ideal, 9:18 PM 8/17/2002]


[Modified by Ideal, 9:28 PM 8/17/2002]

 

no they are not all auto...

all the v-6's are auto, thats all

 

o ****, for some reason i though that he was talking about a v-6 my mistake, i shall correct it...

 

Is it brand new? Is it an Automatic? If the answer is 'yes' to both keep it stock till the warrenty expires or your tranny explodes.

 

if it's an auto, you might as well just wreck it and collect insurance on it, cuz it'll never be fast or reliable with a lot of power behind it....auto tranny's suck *****!

 

yes, yes they do, i wanna convert badly, stupid bills....

 

he got a manual tranny, dont worry guys...lol

 

It's a 5 speed with 76K miles. Accord LX.

Thnals for all the rensponses. So basically you are saying 10-20 HP gain?

What are the factors to play with?


[Modified by 2 B 4GO10, 8:26 AM 8/18/2002]

 

i dynoed at 143 hp and 141 tq with those mods. so find out what it puts out stock and do the math

 

i have a 99 stick...performance-wise i've done a CAI and DC Headers... i'm thinking about an exhaust but i really dont like the look of a fat pipe or the farting sound that some come with...

any suggestions for a good catback system that's relatively quiet? it seems that some on this forum like the quietness of the DC. my friend told me to go Apex. others have told me that the car has good stock piping already...i know my bolt ons wont really make much of a performance difference anyways...worth it? if so, which one to go for?

thanks all

 

the piping is decent, but don't use the stock muffler...dc makes that twin loop thing, but you will have to get it custom welded cuz i'm pretty sure they don't have a system for accords, and mugen also makes a twin loop that is made to supress sound as much as possible w/o restricting airflow...

 

that's actually not bad for just i/h/e...honda rated the ex about that at the crank, so with a 15-20% loss at the crank, you have made a good amount of power!...

 

factors are different days, temperature outside, humidity, your engine's mood on a particular day, octane rating of gas, brand new oil or not, the size and style (bending angles and such) of the piping you use in the header and exhaust, your airfilter, etc... etc...

 

I think SCC dynoed a stock 6th gen at 127 so a 16 hp gain.

Not too shabby

definately get the DC header, it made a noticable difference on mine. especially in the mid range

 

The best I've dyno'd at is NA 144whp / 147wtq in my F22B1... Getting a VAFC is key to maintaining a stoicmetric A/F mixture...

 

Espescially when FI is involved.

 

i have a 6th generation accord coupe

 

Well I think the best thing to do is to go with the H22A swap and move on N/A. Boost would be a short term answer for the weak F23A1 but I just feel bad for the single cam.

Here is what what I found so far about the H22A swap into a 6th gen.

You have to rewire the tranny wiring for reverse, netural saftey.
Also you have to rewire for the VSS to use the prelude one.
And you have to rewire for the EGR valve.

If you get a obd2 motor just get a 96 computer because it doesnt have immobilizer. everything is plug and play.

For those running obd1 engine, you will need the obd2 to obd1 harness and use the p13. This option is actually better if you want to eventually tune the car,

Engine mounts.

-front has to be relocated a little to the left (towards the passenger side of the car if i remember correctly)
-passenger side will bolt up
-driver side: you will have to drill out a hole so the mount will line up because the original hole will be slightly off. (not really sure of how to drill it but the person told me just use an engine lift to hold the engine into the engine bay and i will see where it has to be done)

Also
-axles from the accord
-a/c from the 6th gen will bolt right up.
-powersteering will use the prelude mount but grinded down a little bit for better fitment.


If anybody knows people or shops that have done the swap, please let me know. I am not in a hurry but I do want to speak with someone who actually did it without a stand alone.