code 9 after converting to obd1
Yes here we are with another Code 9 thread. I will try and explain everything the best I can.
Setup:
b16a with GSR cams
boosted inline pro kit
So the issue is my ECU is throwing Code 9 after I converted from obd0 to obd1 with a Xenocron conversion harness.
When I had bought the car, it has an obd0 b20 in it, no CEL ran great. Decided to boost the car when I converted to obd1. Threw code 9. Car ran great so it didn't really bother me. Ended up trading the motor for a b16 to one of my friends.
Installed b16, Code 9. My buddy got the b20 running, no code 9.
Today I have swapped out a dizzy that was known good other than the one that came with the motor. Still code 9. I opened up the dizzy itself made sure all connections were correct. Timing is spot on, double checked it twice now. I even switched out using another dizzy conversion harness thinking one of my wires is loose. Still same code. I also checked out the wire on the ECU, its butt connected but is very intact no wires showing. I also took off my ECU and switched it with a p05 converted to VTEC and has no issues running my friends turbo z6 motor without any codes showing.
Can anyone think of anything else this might be? I have read all the Code 9 issues and I have attempted to do everything they have to ensure it's fixed.
IF I get the car started and I press on the gas as soon as I try and stop the car just bogs out and dies. It will not restart, I have to push it back into the garage.
Any help would be appreciated. thanks
***UPDATE***
Bump back from the dead. Still working on this issue. Had a master tech for dodge come and check to make sure all the wiring is within specs using his multimeter and set of tools.
ECU pins are showing 374 ohms at the ECU pins as well as through the wires all the way up to the new distributor from Rywire.
Xenocron confirmed that the distributor wiring harness was put together properly.
Anyone have anything at all? Could the resistance differ from when the car is running to when it's off?
Setup:
b16a with GSR cams
boosted inline pro kit
So the issue is my ECU is throwing Code 9 after I converted from obd0 to obd1 with a Xenocron conversion harness.
When I had bought the car, it has an obd0 b20 in it, no CEL ran great. Decided to boost the car when I converted to obd1. Threw code 9. Car ran great so it didn't really bother me. Ended up trading the motor for a b16 to one of my friends.
Installed b16, Code 9. My buddy got the b20 running, no code 9.
Today I have swapped out a dizzy that was known good other than the one that came with the motor. Still code 9. I opened up the dizzy itself made sure all connections were correct. Timing is spot on, double checked it twice now. I even switched out using another dizzy conversion harness thinking one of my wires is loose. Still same code. I also checked out the wire on the ECU, its butt connected but is very intact no wires showing. I also took off my ECU and switched it with a p05 converted to VTEC and has no issues running my friends turbo z6 motor without any codes showing.
Can anyone think of anything else this might be? I have read all the Code 9 issues and I have attempted to do everything they have to ensure it's fixed.
IF I get the car started and I press on the gas as soon as I try and stop the car just bogs out and dies. It will not restart, I have to push it back into the garage.
Any help would be appreciated. thanks
***UPDATE***
Bump back from the dead. Still working on this issue. Had a master tech for dodge come and check to make sure all the wiring is within specs using his multimeter and set of tools.
ECU pins are showing 374 ohms at the ECU pins as well as through the wires all the way up to the new distributor from Rywire.
Xenocron confirmed that the distributor wiring harness was put together properly.
Anyone have anything at all? Could the resistance differ from when the car is running to when it's off?
Last edited by dephtone; Jul 6, 2009 at 09:00 AM.
man i got the same problem cyp i tried everything bypassed the jump harness, changed the dizzy changed the plugs and i still get a code 9 anyone else have any fixes on this!!!
If you search google there are like pages of threads on honda-tech, hopefully we can figure it out, some peoples cars run they just miss etc. Mine doesn't even start lol
bumpity
bumpity
Your wiring is incorrect. There are two wires at the dizzy on obd0 cars that are blu/yellow and blu/green try switching these two. Happened to me before. If the dizzy is good for sure than this is probably the cause. That or the cyp wire has a break in it somewhere. Matter fact before you switch the wires check it for continuity from the dizzy plug to the ecu
What conversion harness are you using, the boomslang harness are notorious for the connections coming loose. I had to hardwire 8 different wires that had come loose on my Boomslang harness.
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The harness that I bought for the car came from Xenocron. I will double check the wires. Thanks
I just don't understand how the code shows up only after changing to obd1 but iv switched out the dizzy harness
I just don't understand how the code shows up only after changing to obd1 but iv switched out the dizzy harness
Your wiring is incorrect. There are two wires at the dizzy on obd0 cars that are blu/yellow and blu/green try switching these two. Happened to me before. If the dizzy is good for sure than this is probably the cause. That or the cyp wire has a break in it somewhere. Matter fact before you switch the wires check it for continuity from the dizzy plug to the ecu
how can you check for the codes on an obd0 car?? i just swapped a 94 z6 vtec in my ef9 and i cant seem to get the check engine light off nor can i figure out why it is 2 steppin at 1500 rpm(check my thread) any one have any input on this??
so last night I checked the voltage at the dizzy plug with the key on it was .41v this was at the 20v DC setting on a multimeter. Does this sound correct? I tested it on a battery to make sure I had it on the right setting and it read 14.4v.
I couldn't figure out which one to check on the ECU but I found a pinout so I will have to check that tonight.
I couldn't figure out which one to check on the ECU but I found a pinout so I will have to check that tonight.
If you are using an Obd0 ECU, there is a LED on the top of the ECU that will flash if there is a CEL on. If it is converted to obd1 and you have a conversion harness touch the blue and orange wires (this is the way it is with the Xenocron harness) and your check engine light will flash.
If you are using an Obd0 ECU, there is a LED on the top of the ECU that will flash if there is a CEL on. If it is converted to obd1 and you have a conversion harness touch the blue and orange wires (this is the way it is with the Xenocron harness) and your check engine light will flash.
which problem were you having?? like mine or the original posters problem?
what dizzy r you using if you still using and obdo dizzy its not goint to work. if your useing and ls dizzy it will work for a bit but will throw a code 9 sometime down the road
Both dizzys that I have tried are obd1 b16 dizzy's....an LS dizzy wouldnt even fit unless you chopped off the one ear and neither of them are rigged on there..
if they are both the same heigth and width(obd1's are taller in center) pull the guts out of the one that works, and put it into the casing to the dizzy that fits the motor...or just cut the sensors and wire them up to your old dizzy plugs....thats what i did on my dizzy issue and worked like a charm
Well as an update, put new plugs in it, it sputters like it wants to start and then just cranks and cranks.
The funny thing about the situation is the car started on sunday it just stalled out as soon as I would try and stop at a stop sign, now it doesn't even start at all.
If the wires were switched then the car wouldn't have started in the first place correct?
The funny thing about the situation is the car started on sunday it just stalled out as soon as I would try and stop at a stop sign, now it doesn't even start at all.
If the wires were switched then the car wouldn't have started in the first place correct?
Poor connection somewhere... I would bet at the back of the OBD0 dizzy plug. Look closely at the blue/yel &blu/green striped wires. GIve each of them a gentle tug Have seen many breaks right at the connector. Is this car an Si model to start or is irt DPFI2MPFI converted?


