OK i built a poorman type r on boost broke in the block stock. Pulled the stock cams out after block break in and put dual valve spings from skunk 2 supertech retainers and valve guide seals and skunk 2 pro 2 cams. Put everything back together today and it wont start.. I tried EVERYTHING!!! IT NOT TIMING!!
THINGS CHECKED:
Timing Is DEAD ON Checked Multiple times
I have PERFECT compression
I did a leak down test no leakage
Adjusted Valvelash to 7 on exhaust and intake
I have Fuel
i have spark
i changed plugs

I am going to use my buddies ecu tomaro just to rule that out
Any help would help I am completly stumped I think i have it ruled twards an ignition timing problem i dont think its firing when its supposed too even tho everything is where its supposed to be. i even tried rotating the distributor 180 and nothing im stumped

 

how did you check for fuel and spark? and the valve lash, i am not sure what the specs are but i would recheck that too. let us know how it turns out

 

If you have compression, fuel, and spark, and the cam and ignition timing are spot on, then there is no reason it shouldn't start. You're obviously missing something. Have you actually checked all items, or are you just assuming? All too often, someone will tell me "I have spark" despite the fact that they never actually pulled a plug and tested for sparks.

 

thats it in a nut shell.
you have to go back over what was changed.

 

Maybe the timing is 180 degrees out (not distributor, you have to have cylinder 1 I think it is at TDC when tightening the timing belt)

 

check your valve, maybe its on too tight, you sure thats the spec for your cams? what was your compression test anyways? Does the car turn over or crank? check your wires, maybe its a ground, simple stuff, just go back to when you install everything. It might be just something you miss.

Also you put the cams at tdc too right when you did tdc on the piston? both cams have to line up correctly to get it to run also.

 

have you grounded your injectors?

 

Did you plug in your distributor?....I forgot that a few times....always funny after the fact haha

 

factory settings for dohc engines well the b16a is like
exhaust 0.17 - 0.21
intake 0.15 - 0.19
unless that all changes with differant cams, springs and retainers. correct me if im wrong please cause im unsertin about that

 

How do you mind if I ask, did you confirm fuel? Did you check both Fuel Pressure, and using a NOID light check if the Injector is Firing?

Where did you check for spark? Did you check at the plug end of the ignition wire, if so did you use a gap tester to test the strength of the spark?

 

did you reconnect all of your grounds?

thats all i can think of.

one time i did my clutch and the damn car wouldnt start, took me two hours to remember the tranny ground laying on the window cowl

 

Yes i ACTUALLY tsted these thing. i have a fuel pressure guage on my fuel filter the reads 50psi when its sitting there you can also smell fuel semi burned. i did a compression test it 215 215 213 210. I have a spark tester and i have perfect spark its all msd ignition the head was never pulled and nothing was disconnected yes the distributor is plugged in i said i have spark. i tried flipping the dist 180 you can do it but i pulled the pin in the back and flpped the actual distributor part and it did nothing seemed to crank easier tho. when this is cranking it seems like it is firing at the wrong spots almost firing against itself because itll crank like normal and then it fires one of the cyclinder coming up on compression and stops the motor for a second. i build honda motors all the time h and b series and d series so i am no noob but there is something sooo stupid going on here its out of the normal the only thing i can think of is the ecu fried so i am trying another tonight... this car was perfectly running before and the ONLY thing changed was
CAMS
VALVE GUIDE SEALS
VALVE SPRINGS
RETAINERS
CAMGEARS

NOTHING ELSE!!

Only logical explantion is some freak accident happened and when i put the battery tender on the car it fried the ecu which ill be p|ssed but we shall see..

 

plugs are iridium heat range 6 gap 11 you cant gap them but i bought a new set of stock gsr ngk 2756 nothing there i have 10.4mm wires on and threw on a stock set nothing injectors are def firing you can smell fuel

 

im sure you didnt forget, but have to make sure.

did you put your keyways in for your camgears?

 

.17 - .21??? What are you sliding a brick in there or what? its .006 to .007 for intake and .007 to .008 for exhaust so to make it easier i do .007 accross..

 

By gap tester I mean the style tester you plug into the ignition wire and then have a screw connected to ground, you can adjust the distance with the screw to see how strong the spark is.

 

I already matched up the stock cam position at tdc to the aftermarket exactly the same.. i do everything with timing at tdc always...

 

My spark is very strong from the msd because my spark tester makes an ear piercing crack when it sparks normal cars arent that loud

 

LOL yes sir i did that they would just pin without it

 

Then signs point to an ECU issue. see if you can find someone local willing to swap ECUs for a minute to test them before you order a new one.

 

yea were pulling one out of my buddies hatch tonight after work

 

Keep us posted, sorry for making it seem like I am treating you like an idiot but its better to confirm the bases (spark, fuel, comp) and confirm how they were tested before jumping to conclusions.

 

Absolutly i know you guys are just hear to help i work on hondas all day everyday it is very difficult to diagnose something with out being there this one is difficult being here lol.

 

ha the 0.17 - 0.21 is the same as .006 - .007 just in a differant measurment type of way. its in a b16a engine spec i seen like the exhaust been 0.17 - 0.21 (.006 - .007)

 

lol ok