power locks will not work....
Ok, when i bought the car the windows or the locks didn't work. but the windows would roll down from the controls on them but the master control on drivers door didn't do nothing. so i tore into it gave up and gave it a hot wire and connected it to 4 wires on the master control switch and now they work. but my locks on the other hand don't work at all no power.
I am installing a 140 dollar alarm system tomorrow and need this fixed. the guy said if he installs the alarm their might be a chance the locks will work because the switch is bad but what are the chances of that?
I am installing a 140 dollar alarm system tomorrow and need this fixed. the guy said if he installs the alarm their might be a chance the locks will work because the switch is bad but what are the chances of that?
Well i installed a Viper security system on my car bout 1.5 yrs ago. Since then the power door locks only work off the remote and not the switch in the car. I would assume the alarm you install will take control of the power locks, and wouldnt even worry about it.
ok, ^ I'mma take your word on it and go ahead and do it. it will be pretty dam weird and **** if i gotta lock all my doors my hand and then activate the alarm.
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And when they install the alarm, the connect to the wires that control your power door locks, basically making the switch useless. So if they still dont wont, its either a bad fuse, a bad wire, or a bad actuator, thats all there is in the circuit.
there is 4, one for each door lock mechanism. To find it follow the metal shafts from the latch to the actuator. This pic is of an actuator off an accord, but they look very similar. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...n/IMG_0625.jpg
ok, so most likely then the alarm will work on the power locks i hope. if not ill be posting up on here trying to fix it. Thanks a ton man!
Ok, you need a voltmeter to do these tests.
Door Switch Test:
Remove handle trim panel and disconnect lock switch connector.
With Door in LOCK position, check for continuity between Pins 2 + 3.
With Door in UNLOCK position, check for continuity between pins 1 + 2.
If you have continuity, switch is ok.
Door Lock Actuator Test Drivers Door:
Remove Interior Door Trim Panel. Disconnect Actuator Connector "in lower left hand corner opening towards the top of the opening. Connector pin order is |1|2|3|4|
Test LOCK. Connect Positive Battery Voltage to Terminal 4, and Negative to Terminal 3 BRIEFLY. Dont hold it on as you can fry your actuator.
Test UNLOCK. Connect Positive Battery Voltage to Terminal 3, and Negative to Terminal 4 BRIEFLY.
If actuator doesnt lock and unlock, replace.
With lock in the LOCK position, check continuity between pins 1 + 2.
With lock in UNLOCK positon, check that there is NO continuity between 1 + 2.
This info is straight out of the 92-95 Civic Chilton Manual. Best of Luck Diagnosing
Door Switch Test:
Remove handle trim panel and disconnect lock switch connector.
With Door in LOCK position, check for continuity between Pins 2 + 3.
With Door in UNLOCK position, check for continuity between pins 1 + 2.
If you have continuity, switch is ok.
Door Lock Actuator Test Drivers Door:
Remove Interior Door Trim Panel. Disconnect Actuator Connector "in lower left hand corner opening towards the top of the opening. Connector pin order is |1|2|3|4|
Test LOCK. Connect Positive Battery Voltage to Terminal 4, and Negative to Terminal 3 BRIEFLY. Dont hold it on as you can fry your actuator.
Test UNLOCK. Connect Positive Battery Voltage to Terminal 3, and Negative to Terminal 4 BRIEFLY.
If actuator doesnt lock and unlock, replace.
With lock in the LOCK position, check continuity between pins 1 + 2.
With lock in UNLOCK positon, check that there is NO continuity between 1 + 2.
This info is straight out of the 92-95 Civic Chilton Manual. Best of Luck Diagnosing
When I bought my 92 hatch the central locking wasn't working either, basically just unplug the harness from the driver side door latch and try to jump the middle pin with one of the outside ones. If it works, then that means your driver switch is broke. On mine it wasn't making good contact due to a worn out PCB so I basically just "adjusted" the contacts in the switch till it worked.
Well, I took off the passenger door panel and noticed that their was a clip disconnected and i found where it went and it went to the dam eltric lock. and only that side i gave it power and only that doors lock went up and down. And ill test the actuator tomorrow. but i think what the problem is is that its not getting any power at all.
Where is the power source for the locks?
Where is the power source for the locks?
Ok, you need a voltmeter to do these tests.
Door Switch Test:
Remove handle trim panel and disconnect lock switch connector.
With Door in LOCK position, check for continuity between Pins 2 + 3.
With Door in UNLOCK position, check for continuity between pins 1 + 2.
If you have continuity, switch is ok.
Door Lock Actuator Test Drivers Door:
Remove Interior Door Trim Panel. Disconnect Actuator Connector "in lower left hand corner opening towards the top of the opening. Connector pin order is |1|2|3|4|
Test LOCK. Connect Positive Battery Voltage to Terminal 4, and Negative to Terminal 3 BRIEFLY. Dont hold it on as you can fry your actuator.
Test UNLOCK. Connect Positive Battery Voltage to Terminal 3, and Negative to Terminal 4 BRIEFLY.
If actuator doesnt lock and unlock, replace.
With lock in the LOCK position, check continuity between pins 1 + 2.
With lock in UNLOCK positon, check that there is NO continuity between 1 + 2.
This info is straight out of the 92-95 Civic Chilton Manual. Best of Luck Diagnosing
Door Switch Test:
Remove handle trim panel and disconnect lock switch connector.
With Door in LOCK position, check for continuity between Pins 2 + 3.
With Door in UNLOCK position, check for continuity between pins 1 + 2.
If you have continuity, switch is ok.
Door Lock Actuator Test Drivers Door:
Remove Interior Door Trim Panel. Disconnect Actuator Connector "in lower left hand corner opening towards the top of the opening. Connector pin order is |1|2|3|4|
Test LOCK. Connect Positive Battery Voltage to Terminal 4, and Negative to Terminal 3 BRIEFLY. Dont hold it on as you can fry your actuator.
Test UNLOCK. Connect Positive Battery Voltage to Terminal 3, and Negative to Terminal 4 BRIEFLY.
If actuator doesnt lock and unlock, replace.
With lock in the LOCK position, check continuity between pins 1 + 2.
With lock in UNLOCK positon, check that there is NO continuity between 1 + 2.
This info is straight out of the 92-95 Civic Chilton Manual. Best of Luck Diagnosing
Ok so you tested your pass door and the actuator is fine. Thats good. The clip is connected to the actuator, so giving the clip power should move the actuator. As for the power, it comes from the control unit in the drivers door. It sounds like your actuators are fine, and your control unit could be bad. I would still test the switch to rule that out, and if the switch is fine, and the drivers door actuator is good, I would replace the control unit inside the door. prolly pick one up real cheap from junkyard or ebay.
Where is this control unit for the power doorlocks located and what does it look like. I just spent 20 minutes on majestic honda looking for this thing.
The power door locks control unit is in the drivers side door about halfway down towards the front. It fits into a little plastic pocket, and is a rectangular plastic box. This is a pic off a 97 but yours should be similar.


