I have been doing a lot of research on the G23 engine. Everything from Pirate McFred's posts using an H23, to the "Bolis build". I do still however have a few questions that remain unanswered.

-IF I will not switch my car to OBD I and instead want to use my Greddy E-manage Ultimate, is that possible? I know that the emanage allows you to manipulate fuel and ignition timing...but I don't know if there is something else I am missing.

Save any comments like "dude, you need to use hondata...etc."... I live in NY, we plug our cars in for emissions. It's bad enough I have to fake the rear O2 signals and EGR after this is done.

-EXACTLY what OEM piston is being used in the G23?

I don't want to use aftermarket yet, I want to start with the basic...but use new. So I know they use "K20/K24 pistons" but it would be VEEERY helpful if someone has a Honda/Acura part number for the pistons so I can just order them up from a dealer.

-Has ANYONE else done this??

I keep reading about other people doing this with civics or 4th gen ludes and older accords...how about the 5th gen ludes?

Thanks for any helpful advice in advance.

As some side notes, this build will be N/A...no boost. I plan on using stock or slightly more aggressive cams (Anyone have some used Type S cams kicking around? ) I already have the e-manage, some RC 550cc injectors (if I need more fuel), an F23A5 block, H22 head, new crank pulley, head gasket, timing belt, etc.

 

Bump...I'm at a bit of a stand still until I can get some more info.

Help?

 

H22a4 pistons with F23 rods, but..they'll stick out too much. You have two options to deal with that:

1. Per the first post in Pirate's G23 thread: recess the combustion chambers .039".
2. How Six Sigma Racing did it: deck the pistons .039".

As for Emanage Ultimate: I think it's more powerful that people give it credit, since it doesn't just mess with the map signal. Dunno, if it'll work for this or not. There are limits to how much mess with the ecu injector and ignition signals can be modified. Could you not run the obd2 ecu interim annually while you get the inspection done, then switch back to obd1?

Contact the guys in this thread, they have a ton of Emanage Ultimate experience:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php...ic=408667&st=0

 

I didn't know if there was a drop-in piston that would allow me to not have to worry about machine work.
If I did just use the stock H22A4 pistons and decked them...any idea what compression I would be around? I'd like to get as high of compression as possible for running 93 octane.
I guess I could just go OBD I...by biggest fear is plugging the original ECU back in and having CEL codes then not being able to pass emissions. I assume that if the timing is tampered with when I have an OBD I dizzy hooked up and then I go back to an OBD II...I will get a CEL?

Thanks again for the reply it was very helpful...it's frustrating trying to pull any info I can from Pirate's H23 headed engine thread and other people's postings.

 

Use this for to calculate compression: http://www.zealautowerks.com/hfseries.html

Leave all the emissions stuff in place. It won't be used with your p28/p72/whatever, but you'll need it come inspection time with the obd2 ecu.

You shouldn't have any problem as long as you use the obd1 diz and not the obd2 one. If you adjust the obd2 diz, you get a cel.

 

Thanks, that link is very helpful...

If I did run the H pistons, I would have to bore the F23 block out by 1mm, right? So I would have to machine the block and the piston heads?

 

Yah, but boring the iron lines in F is pretty simple. Just make sure the work produces round and taper free bores. 60* cross-hatch in pretty much all Honda blocks. Just follow the helms.

Alternative is if you can find a 55mm H22 block with good bores. This will be hard to come by.

 

Ugh...the majority of the reason why I am even doing this in the first place is to get away from the weak/oil eating FRM sleeves. The added displacement and stroke are a bonus. It just sucks that this is getting to a point where it would be cheaper/easier to just buy a low mileage JDM engine to throw in the car. I'd hate to lose out on the power gains from the G23...idk. When buying new H22 pistons...how do I tell if they are of the rev. A or rev. B variety? I assume that refers to different models that were slightly wider in diameter? Thanks

 

Dl the helms. It's critical that you have it.
Helms Download

Shops don't charge much to bore/hone iron liners, not a big deal/expense. Pistons should be stamped on the dome A or B. Make sure you bore/hone to the correct size depending on which piston size you use. Doesn't really matter though since the shop will have to mic/measure each piston for honing to the correct piston-wall clearance anyway. Use F23 piston-wall specs.

 

Hmm...I am kind of changing up the game plan. I might go OBD I with hondata/crome. I am trying to find if Six Sigma Racing did a write up of their own. I know there are a few threads on the G23 topic, but I am looking for a situation that mirrors mine as closely as possible. I am coming from a DSM background and trying to learn all of the honda related parts as quickly as I can. I am still trying to find out what I will need for fuel requirements...a bigger pump, injectors, FPR, etc.? I was planning on using the RC 550cc's or some DSM 450's with resistor pack along with a walbro 255 pump and aeromotive fpr...IF all of that is needed. Maybe it isn't? Thanks again!

 

Here's the SSR thread:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/six-sigma-racing-quartersports-2-3l-h2b-crx-budget-build-monster-1937260/

Depending on the power you make you'll only need to upgrade injectors to ~400ccs.

You can use whatever 86mm-87mm OEM piston you want but any of the newer OEM pistons use an offset on the wrist pin that's not meant for CCW spinning engines. You can have a shop

You can use S2000, RSX, TSX, RDX pistons easily. Just have a shop cut the exhaust valve reliefs to accomodate your intake cam lift/duration specs and use the piston rotated in the bore 180˚. Of course you can probably find some cheap 87mm forged aftermarket pistons that usually have no offset too.

-P

 

Thanks for that Pirate. Do you think I would need a pump upgrade or can the stock one hold up? I am only thinking about using the stock H22 head with H22 pistons (decked like I have been reading). I am trying to keep this cheap but make a little more power than the stock h22a4 in my car. I'm thinking that with an S100 hondata chip...then the whole $400 dyno tuning...ugh. I just don't have the background to do crome.

 

You don't need anythng but injectors.

With the heavy H22 slugs you'll probably want to keep the balance shafts then. I found the vibration annoying for a daily driver.