Just wondering if adding a strut bars really make a difference? Are they even worth it to invest in? Are they over rated?

 

the non hinge once work

 

very well worth it if you buy a well designed brace. think of a sky scraper without braces, its going to sway and be unstable. are those braces in there over rated? do those make a difference? *not being sarcastic* strut bars are excellent as long as youre not buying the ones off ebay... ive bought a couple just testing to see what works, and snapped 3 ebay front uppers. just remember though, there is such thing as a chassis being too tight. id definitely recommend a front upper rear upper and good sway bars.

 

Nice aniligy iono how you spell it, lol. So dont even bother with the lower front and lower rear bar if you have the front and rear sway bars? I was thinking of either the skunk2 or the NRG tripod strut bar. Any one with recomenditions?

 

Yes, it's worth it. I had massive chassis bendage going on small ramps at an angle and I guess my chassis lets water leak now. I heard squeaking and thought it was my suspensions. I threw one on and the squeaking went down dramatically. I'm going to weld the hinges tomorrow and see what happens then.

 

those are 2 good ones... ive got my factory em1 bar up front, a skunk2 rear lower tie bar and im trying to locate some good sway bars...well more or less locate the funding for better sway bars, definitely been wanting to try out the Tripod bar. i wouldnt go crazy with braces though, like the H brace and all these random bars... and a C Pillar bar!? are they serious!? the pillars are already the most structurally sound points in a car, and ive seen no proven results from bracing two points like that together. just my .02

 

I completely agree with most of these posts. Especially about the hinged tie bars. Yes they may help a little, but those two pivot points still leave plenty of room for body roll. On my last EJ1 I used Neuspeed bars and they made a HUGE difference!! Nice solid construction (the rear had brackets going to a bar, but it used two bolts, eliminating pivot points). **** add some urethane bushings and your **** will be rolling tight. Trust me on that end, the $150 or so for the complete bushing kit and then however many hours it will take you to do it all properly is worth it. I'd also recommend the rear trailing arm bushings (these aren't in the complete kits), Megan racing makes a nice set, about $100 for the pair.

 

How the F*ck are you snapping eBay strut bars?

The C-pillar bar is more of a benefit for the hatches than the coupes/sedans.

 

how bout traction bars do those work

 

Strut bars work great. They're good bang for your buck upgrades. Buy good quality bars with no flex in them. Here's a nice setup for you to roll on, assuming you've already lowered your car:

3 point front upper
4 point rear upper (pwJDM makes it for coupes and hatches)
Front lower H-brace (NRG makes one with excellent ground clearance)

And I would buy all of these at the same time, because they work in conjunction. If you can only afford one, get the tie bar. Don't get a sway bar without the subframe brace
1) rear lower tie bar (Suspension Techniques makes a one piece tie bar/subframe brace)
2) rear subframe brace (ASR make a good one)
3) rear swaybar (JDM ITR, ASR, Suspension Techniques are all good)

I'll also second the rear trailing arm bushings. Get a kit with spherical bearings from Blox or pwJDM. Add a stiffer front sway if you think you need it, and you're good to go.

 

I'd like to see some pics of these "snapped bars" or I'm inclined to call BS.

Also, yes traction bars work well; you can use those instead of a front lower tie bar or H-brace.

 

i bet the bracket broke along a weld and he's saying "snapped" to make it sounds worse. lol

 

i broke an ebay front upper about 5/8 of the way towards the driver side

but that was because i dropped my *drink* on my lap and a street divider came out of nowhere; hitting my oil pan (cracking it squirting oil everywhere), thus the engine coming all the way up through the strut bar snapping it and making a dent in my hood; also braking my left torque mount bracket.

No seriously though drinking and driving is NOTTTT COOOL

 

Well that doesn't count. lol. It's driver error.

Blaming the strut bar for its own breakage would be like calling your front bumper a piece of **** for breaking in a front-end collision, or calling your tire crappy for losing air when you run over a nail.

 

are you f*cking serious?? ill get some pics if i can find one of them still... have you never seen cheap crapo ebay parts in an autocross???? they dont last long. most people are morons and leave them loose on the car and it completely defeats the purpose. if you put the uppers on loose, and then turn the bar until its tight, then it stiffens the chassis. try that with a cheap chinese cast aluminum ebay bar.. and you can call BS all you want, just because you cant figure out how to drive hard enough to snap one doesnt mean its impossible. GO TO AN AUTOCROSS

 

HaHaHaHaHaHa

 

Strut bars work great but if are good brand...Skunk2, spoon sports, Tanabe, Cusco...ebay are a ****!!

 

Brand has NOTHING to do with it, Skunk2 makes some shitty *** strut bars with hinges. Tein also makes shitty bars.


Go for ONE piece bar, I dont care if it cost $10000 or if your neighbor made it, ONE PIECE is the key.

-OEM Si/GSR (Really cheap, I got mine or $20 on CL)
-Neuspeed
-Mugen (the legit one)
-PW:JDM
-Carbing
-Benen

 

X2! couldnt have said it better myself! and the oem Si or GSR bars are excellent and if i remember correctly all 92-00 civics already have the indentions where the studs to mount them go. theyre excellent.. and again upgraded sway bars rawk!

 

BLUEBOMBER... ive never messed with a front lower H brace... what mounting location does it have? and how exactly does it stiffen? it may be something i need to look into getting. just curious

 

Last time I was down there installing my H brace, I saw it connected the subframe together. I believe the subframe is made of two pieces, so it MAY help.


It didnt clear my 4-2-1 header so I gave it away.

 

placebo effect mostly, a sway bar will make a much more noticeable difference

 

agreed.

Si/GSR bars can be had for like $30 used, making them the best value

 

Here's a pic of it when it was on my ride:

http://bluebomber.com/car/ej/DSC01547.JPG

It basically cleaned up the slop in the front end for me. It made turns tighter and more responsive. I paid 50 bucks for the NRG one and it was well-spent. I'd get another one but I have traction bars now.

I'd still like to see some pics of that broken bar too...

 

got any other pics of the H-brace?


seems like it would also protect part of the suspension and stuff under there if you were to scrape or bottom out