Hello all, I am in dire need of some help. I recently bought a 94 hatch, and feel as though I may have been drastically ripped off. The engine was placed into the vehicle, and as I attempted to drive it away at 3 in the morning from the person's garage with no exhaust and it stalling out everytime you let off the throttle, about a quarter mile down the road the timing belt snapped. It has been sitting for 3 weeks, I guy I know put a belt back on, and said that he compression checked it and it is fine. However, it stalls out after about a minute or less of running. I don't have any pictures, plus it looks absolutely ugly either way. But here is a list of the parts that are on it:


90 b16a 81.5mm. wiseco 9.5-1 pistons,hasting rings,eagle rods,acl bearings,skunk 2 black nitrade flat valves,new oem valve seals,bronze valve guides,brian crower dual valve springs w/titanium retainers,obd1 gsr cams,750cc rc injectors,blox intake manifold,lovefab stainless exhaust turbo manifold,holstet hc1 turbo with rebuild kit,turbonetics deltagate mark II wastegate, really fng big intercooler,all charge piping,blitz type r blow off valve, and a dc2 tranny.

The kid who I bought it from, insisted that the problem was because he forgot to install the computer that was tuned to the 750 cc injectors, I changed the computer, and it actually runs worse now. He said I should put in stock injectors, and go get it tuned professionally. I did not do this yet because I wanted to get some more focused input. Would this help, or does it sound like a totally different problem? The kid offered me to take it back to his garage and he would fix it whenever he gets the chance, I do not trust the kid at this point, and do not really want to have to go this route. Any help at all would be absolutely great! Thank you all very much.

 

Please help me with this issue, I have need to get this running asap!

 

What ECU?

Is the CEL ON?

 

after all those changes to the motor you will need to get it tune, that's if you didn't get the ecu that was tune with the motor, because now is reading a different map and is just lost so you do need to get tune.

 

Originally, I told the kid that the car was not running at all. He stated, oh, that is because we forgot to change the computer, I have the computer that is tuned to those injectors sitting here. So as soon as we change the comp it will run well. I got this comp from him, and had a guy put the comp in since I am so far away. He put it in, and said that the car actually runs worse now that the comp that he stated is tuned to the engine was put into the vehicle.

The check engine light blinks extremely rapidly when the car actually does try running. AND I MEAN RAPIDLY. I am just trying to figure out how to get the car started and running in order to get it to a garage and get it tuned. I also have to get a dump, downpipe, cat, and header for the vehicle, because there is no dump, the downpipe is seriously welded in about 20 places and looks ugly, and there is no cat or exhaust. the downpipe just stops right around the middle undercarriage of the car. I would assume I need to get this all straightened out before I get the car tuned, so I need to get the car running so I can get it here to install all of these parts and take it to a metal shop to get the entire exhaust and dump created in a correct manner.

 

So why would you buy this pile before even knowing it runs ok?

 

Is the service connector jumped by any chance?

 

I am not sure exactly what a service connector is or what it means to be jumped. I bought the car because a very good friend of my girlfriend stated to her that he trusted this guy, and believed that the engine was in very good condition. The guy who I bought it from insists that he can fix it, but I do not know if I should trust him at this point. If the service connector is jumped, what should I do in order to fix this? Also, he told me the check engine light will come on because I need a 4way map sensor, because there is only a 3-way map sensor on it right now. Does this make sense at all?

 

dude i'm not trying to be mean but you sound like you don't know anything about hondas, now you don't need to pay nobody to put on your ecu, is easier than doing an oil change, also take out your ecu and check if is chipped, if is not your still running a base map which is not good, now you got 2 choices either take it and get it tune which will fix all your problems or just stay with the motor like that which will probably blow in no time for not having a tune.

 

The service connector should be around the ECU somewhere.

For EG, there is 1 tan wire and 1 green with white stripe

Here's what the connector looks like:


If there's a piece of wire/clip across the two holes on the connector, it means it's jumped and you need to remove that piece of wire.

It looks to me like the ECU is reporting an error code (rapidly flashing) which means that it's jumped. If the service connector is jumped the ignition timing won't be correct and that might be causing the problems you're having.

 

i agree with checking the service connector, it seems like this kid did a VERY half assed job, and i would seriously consider taking everything back apart and re-doing it before you end up with a blown up pile of crappy crap on your hands.

 

Thank you very much civic driver, I will see if that may be the problem. After I take off the wire/clip, connecting the two wires, what should I do from their if the problem still takes place? I was told I should try putting in stock injectors so that I can get the vehicle to a tuner. Should I try that next, or will that be a mistake?

eg 21, I do not need anyone to change the ecu for me, I had someone else do it because it is at their house and I am an hour away. I am just attempting to get the vehicle started so I can get it to a tuner which will be two hours away from where the vehicle is.

 

If it's not the service connector thing, there are many things that could be wrong with it. Sounds like whoever did this couldn't get things to work so you'd have to ask him what he did last before the car started acting up if even he knows. If everything was installed right, it might be that it just needs some tuning. Have you checked the timing? Fuel pressure? Stuff like that.

 

did you check if your ecu is socketed and chipped?? also make sure wires cap rotor spark plugs are in good condition.

 

the spark plugs and wires are brand new, the rotor and cap seem in very good condition. The ecu is not chipped or socketed. The guy insists that the ecu is tuned to the engine though.

 

Did you check to see if the service connector was jumped?

 

just puttin in my 2 cents but i read that if ur check engine light is blinking fast that something very bad is wrong. not positive but i pree sure i remember reading that on here

 

IF THE ECU IS NOT CHIPPED IT'S NOT TUNED TO THE ENGINE. Get an ECU that is chipped and go get it tuned, tow it there.

 

i'm gonna give it the ollllleee x2 on that one there.

 

I am going to check the service connector today. The guy insisted that there would be no reason for the service connector to be jumped because he never did it. So there is no way to give a tuner the specs of the engine and have them send the chip? So that I could then drive the vehicle there and get it tuned correctly?

 

i had the same kind of problems on my car. Get it to a tuner ASAP

All my problems are slved and the car is running like a charm

 

no, it needs to get dyno tuned you cannot just tell them what you have done and that's it unless it was a stock swap then they could burn a basemap for your ecu, but we don't even know if your ecu is chipped, so you should be ok with a b16a ecu, it won't run properly but it should get you till the tuning shop and if it doesn't run with a stock ecu mess with the fuel pressure and timing, now if it doesn't run at all then you got problems.

 

Just got back from the car. Tried switching ecu's. Checked to make sure all plugs were firing properly, checked timing, and then finally switched back to the ecu he gave me originally, and took out the 750 cc RC injectors, and put in 270 cc RC injectors. The car started right up. I know that I need to get it tuned which is the plan, I just hope that the car will run well enough for me to drive it to the tuner. The exhaust is being welded on tomorrow, and we are going to do as much as we can in order to get car as best as possible. It is starting and running without stalling out. The throttle had to be adjusted as well, it was not tight enough. Hopefully all is well enough now to take it to the tuner.

Service connector was not jumped either. After making all the above changes the CEL is no longer on at all.

 

cool, good to hear its beginning to get straightened out, i just hope you didn't still get burned (more) on this deal. i'm subscribed for the end results when this kid is dissapointed because he gave up on a car that sounds like it doesn't even need that much.

 

Just changing around some small stuff I think. The map sensor was from a crx, and I was told that the specific map sensor was missing the connector, so a new one was put on. Just want to check the throttle positioning sensor, and hopefully it will be good. Just concerned because it is still running a little goofy. The turbo whistles very loudly. Is that common with this brand? Holset Hc1?