I've got a 95 coupe, with the skunk coilover setup. 451hp turbo setup with MT 24.5 slicks. I zeroed it on the alignment rack trying to get the steering wheel straight because it was cocked. Car is pulling left in full boost to the point where it got squirrely at the track in first and second. I know I should toe it in a little so that it straightens out while under power. But how far in are you setting the toe? Is there anything else I should look into?

Thanks for any help or suggestions anyone has!

 

i aligned the car with stock toe settings and my fat *** in the drivers seat, and cranked the traction barrs to most positive caster i could get. so far so good.

 

That could be a lot of things, not just the alignment.

Are you sure you had equal psi in both of the front slicks? If one of them was lower than the other it would cause the same thing.

When you were on the alignment rack, were you able to check the dimensions of the chassis? If not, do you know of any possible frame damage that the car may have?

Caliper not letting go fully on one side?

Lots and lots of reasons for a car to pull, I'm just giving you ideas.

Edit: For the record, I'm zeroed out up front with as much caster as I could get from the traction bars and my car doesn't pull left or right.

 

Not a caliper as far as I can tell, I haven't really checked the frame that much. Tire PSI was right before the run but off by a pound when I got back in the lanes.?
I don't have traction bars. But if I were to go that route should I be weary of certain brands? Thanks

 

bump for any more help

 

was always wondering & will be doing some testing when the car comes back out after this build.
I always wonder if it would be smart to toe out the tires 1degree or so cause when your under load the front tires deff are pulling the car . so if they are at 0degree the tire might want to wiggle a little due to the tire sitting im a center position.. as to being out a little it will hold more firm when it pulls .
think of a loose bike tire it wabbles back & forth . if it was angled enough it wouldent wobble but hold a steady position. same for a tire if its being pulled straight.
maybe im crazy but it might affect the car somewhat

 

Well, I upgraded the brakes yesterday to hawk pads with brembo slotted and stainless lines, and as I was reinstalling the pads, I noticed that I was having a hard time getting the inner left front pad into the hardware. I took the caliper bracket off and noticed that there was a lip on the guide (it was a replacement bracket) that was making it difficult to slide the pad in.. I'm wondering if that lip was preventing full release of the inner pad. I did I quick test drive and it seemed to be a little better, but I haven't driven it further than a mile or so.
I still may try to toe it in if I get time before the next trip to the track.
Anyone have advice on which traction bars to use or not use?

 

SpFab traction bars on here work great for me. Especially for the price. If not worried about money go ahead and buy the new Full race traction bars with the motor mount on them or w/e.

 

I caster it as forward as i can go, but i even them out, i toe in 1/8 for bushing flex, and neg camber 1.5 on each side. When you launch the wheels wanna pull back. And the car lifts. So that kinda straightens the wheels and evens them out.

 

ive read on here before that the tires want to move foward and in when we launch...

 

Are in totals or per side?

 

i cant see them pulling back but deff can see it cambering in from lift but with the right suspension setup u shouldnt get hardly any lift

 

I don't know about the wheels want to pull back statement.

 

Check tire runout?

 

yeah i always thought these civic/integras pull the wheels forward when launching

 

they do most definitely.

 

what do you mean by cambering in? When you launch and the front end lifts, your tires will go more towards the positive camber direction.