ok i dont know if im posting this in the right spot lol i went to start my car and the batery was compleatly draind now the batery only 3 months pld tho but recently like 2 weeks ago i wired up my head unit the 12v wire yellow straight to the batery with a fuse tho and the ignition wire to the factory stereo wire harness 12v wire could this b the cause like it was a slow drain help me please im on a buget and cant aford for it 2 be serious thanks in advance

 

can anyone help me

 

The way the HU was wired will have nothing to do with the batt. gooing dead, unless the radios acc. lead, [red] was connected to the stock radio harness 12V+ constant power.

Did the HU turn off when the ign. switch was turned off?

Wiring the HUs constant power, [yellow] directly to the batt. is the correct way to wire it, the 12V+ constant in the stock radio harness was not designed to to handle the current needed by a "high power" aftermarket HU, the question is, did you cap off the unused 12V+ constant in the stock radio harness?

Did the problem start after you installed the HU? 94

 

i put the red wire to the 12v and the yellow straight to the batt and caped the the ignition wire and when the car was off it would stay on so i would pop the hu but leave it so id just push in and i did it about 2 weeks ago but i started my car about every other day it has been siting for about a week without start and yesterday it was draind im thinkin it was the hu and it had a slow drain but im not sure thats y im posting

 

Do you have a 12V test light? 94

 

yea i do i reconected the hu 2day and put the batt in and so far so good but only time will tell wat else could it be

 

Why do you have it wired like that, do you play your system a lot without the key in the ign.?

With a test light you can test for a "parasitic" draw on the batt., turn everything off in the car, then disconnect the batt. neg. terminal, clip the test-lights ground to the batt. cable clamp and touch the clamp to the side of the batt. post, [so batt. cable clamp is in contact with the batt. post] now touch the test-lights probe to the batt. neg.(-) post, [nothing should happen as both the test-lights ground and probe are connected to the batt. neg.(-)] now pull the batt. clamp away from the post, leaving the test light probe on the batt. post and the test-lights ground on the batt. cable clamp.

If the test light lights up at all, [even a little] you have a parasitic draw.
If the test light does not light up, there is not parasitic draw and your problem is the batt. itself. 94

 

now if i have the draw what do i do autozone replaced my batt 4 free cause it was 3 months old and yea i would play my stereo sometimes not 4 long but i dont got subs or an amp i sold it to get lca for my car lol i think it was worth it so far i would like 2 thank u u have been a big help and im still trying to understand how 2 test it lol but ima atemp it and ill let u kno what hapens

 

If there is a draw you will need to find out why and fix it.

To find what circuit the draw is on start pulling fuses, one by one until the test-light/bulb goes out, leave batt. neg.(-) disconnected with test-light/bulb between the batt. cable clamp and batt. post.
Pull a fuse and check the test-light/bulb, if still on, replace the pulled fuse and pull the next one, and so on until test-light/bulb goes out.
Once the light is out you have found the circuit that is drawing power, now you need to find what in that circuit is drawing the power and fix it.

The first thing to do is to see if there is a draw in the first place. 94

 

ok anothere ? what causes this to even hapen is it age this has got me so mad and i conect the tester ground clamp to the disonected negative cable ot 2 the batt itself with the cable disconected thats were im confused

 

fcm also do you know were i can get a new purge control heres a link of a pik thanks http://www.1993-honda-civic.com/imag...swap_01794.jpg

 

The test light goes in series with the disconnected batt. cable and batt.

Disconnect the batt. neg.(-) terminal, clamp the test lights ground to the cable and touch the test light probe to the batt. neg.(-) post, the test light will complete the circuit, if there is any draw the test light will light up.
The test light needs to be an ordinary 12V test light with a light bulb, a LED test light will not work.94

 

ok now i understand im going to go try it rite now brb

 

ok i just did what u told me to do and it didnt lite up i guess it was the hu after all i rewired it up the rite way and the batt is holding power from the looks of it so thank u fcm if it dies again ill look u uplol