Well I made the trip down to Tampa from Jacksonville to have my car tuned by John from Phearable (Phearable.net). The car was tuned at Precision Motorsports (pm-fl.com) and everything went smoothly, . . . without power being made.

So final results are listed and I am truly baffled as to how the car made almost "worse than stock" numbers on a brand new motor (1100 miles)

Specs:
01' GSR Head
-Buddy Club spec3+ cams
-Buddy Club intake valves
-Stock gsr exhaust valves
-Buddy Club dual valve springs
-AEM cam gears
-Crower retainers
-ARP head studs

JDM B16a block
-shot-peaned rods
-ACL race bearings
-micropolished and balanced crank
-stock P30 pistons

Bolt-ons
-Skunk2 intake manifold
-AEM Fuel Rail
-Password JDM intake
-JDM Type R 4-1 header
-US OEM Type R Exhaust
-NGK wires
-Iridium Plugs

On the bright side, the motor runs GREAT, but just no power or torque. All ailments have been cured, but the car just took a dump on the dyno. I'm bummed, but optimistic that we will get to the bottom of this. I'm going to take it to my buddy's shop this week to run a compression test.

Original motor thread is here:
http://www.hondamarketplace.com/show....php?t=2483912

Graph:


Bonus shot of the motor when I just got back:


Any ideas guys?

 

timing off? slightly bent valves? pretty large cams for what looks like stockish compression. but damn, thats low

 

Timing checked and good, valves were adjusted 2 weeks ago before Tune. Cams are entry level with low to mid gains.

 

Get a 1.8 or b20 block and you will see a difference.

 

I'll also see a difference if I build the block, but that doesn't explain why I have such low numbers on an otherwise healthy brand spankin' new motor.

 

a dyno is a tuning tool...Go to the track and do a few run...You will see after that...

Let the motor speak for himself at the track...

 

If the motor has about 1100 miles on it what kind of compression numbers were you seeing when you were throughout the initial break in?


Im gonna go with my default statement of the day- Leakdown test.

 

Are sure those numbers are bad? Your intake and header could be better but you really won't know until you take it to the strip. What size is your exhaust?

 

from his post 2.5 inch collector on the header and i think the usdm r exhausts are 2.36".

 

Do a leak down test before anything else.

 

It says JDM ITR header.

 

If it was my motor I would def want to test it asap for peace of mind that all is good and
at least make sure before I even bothered going to the track, but thats just me.
Plus the things on a fresh break in. Actually I would have made sure its healthy and ready test wise before even going to tune.

Even with that particular intake/exhaust would it be wrong to expect more?
Seems suspect with the break in or something.

 

Johns moved from BlueMoon Automotive which had a DynoJet 248X (before they closed) to this newer facility, but last time I spoke with him I asked what kind of dyno he was working with at this new facility and he said he wasnt familiar with it in terms of the brand/model when we spoke last winter.

I'm not saying you might not have a problem but perhaps it could be the dyno results, in that you might be expecting numbers that would coincide with the average dynojet or dynapack numbers, IDK....

Do you know what kind of dyno this is? I wouldnt think any chassis roller dyno would be that much off from the rest though.

 

Stock intake stock throttle body no good
change that u should see a difference
check compression and do a leak down and while it was a part u shoulda put some ctr pistons in the block woulda deff seen a difference

 

I was hoping for some better responses than the ones posted. I have not ran compression numbers yet, but will this week. I never felt the need to run the numbers as the motor felt "normal" from the start. As far as the break-in:

nonvtec for 1st 100 miles (Oil change)
Vtec until 6k rpms between 100 to 500 miles, with short burst to let everything seat correctly.
Changed oil at 500 miles and ran normally with vtec.

I could only seeing a break in affecting a motor this drastically if I beat the sh@t out of it right from the get go. Something else has got to be an issue.

Also, to anyone who says "should I expect more" is absolutely crazy! lol You wouldn't expect 180-185 or more whp out of the setup? Sh*t, browse the all motor dyno sticky and see what I mean. This is too low.

 

Stock intake? TB is fine. And stop saying add pistons. Of course I will see a difference, but there is a problem when you make stock HP off a modified new motor. Jesus.

 

P30s are good pistons for what I seems like what he wants to do. It could also be a dyno, but like stated before start with the engine.

 

true.

op- first, change back to the oem p30 im, replace the wp induction system with a 3" sri ,Bpi stack and appropriate filter, increase the exhaust diameter to 2.5" and replace that header with the sp 4-2-1 unit and change those plugs. what cam gear settings did u run and what sized tb are u using?

 

What sort of response were you expecting?

No, I would not expect much over 155 whp. Beyond cams and maybe the IM what do you think you've added to make this motor produce power in that range?

Also, what size exhaust are you running?

 

Thanks Lawson. Unfortunately the motor was purchased with the IM intact (see the motor thread link above). Wp? And would an intake change really have a drastic effect? The exhaust should be fine as there is no cat and it flows out from a 2.5 to 2.36, not enough to effect that much. Header should also be fine, again why would this be a concern? Change the plugs? Why lol? Not sure of the cam gear settings and TB is a stock Si.

 

torque is flat and you make power to almost 9000 rpm....

 

Not saying to "add more" to a motor that is obviously not performing at what it should. Meaning there may be an issue with something else other than adding "sum pistons".


Well, assuming a stock b16 motor with I/H/E typically will yield 160+ hp and I have added cams, cam gears, intake valves, an intake manifold, 3 angle valve job, and springs/retainers/and head studs to be able to extend the power band, I would expect more than what i put down.

It's all clearly stated at the top, OEM Type R (2.36" diameter) to 2.5" JDM ITR header

 

get a b18 or b20 block you`ll be happy.

 

is that good or bad?

 

Dynocom, reads the same as a dynojet. He said it should have made 190whp. He was shocked/bummed/confused. *shrug*