Ok i got an 89 honda civic dx coupe.... and im looking to increase horspower and i was wondering what i should do.... I had the idea of puting the d16 intake and wiring it for 4 injecters..... and then doing the mini-me head swap to make it vetech but i am wondering if its worth it to do that or just wire it for mpfi and put something else in it moter wise.... I already got header downpipe testpipe (high flow cat) and delso mufler.... I just got into honda 2 years ago and i have learned alot form hondatech thanks for the help.... Lurch

 

no such thing as a 89 civic dx coupe, and i never heard of vetech?

89 honda civic:
Hatchback (HB)
Sedan (4DR)
those are the only civics that were made in 89, unless you take into account the:
89 Honda Civic CR-X.

and its vtec not vetech.


now that that's out of the way, seeing as you already have the D series components you can stick with the mini-me conversion or just swap in a D16Y8 from a 96-00 civic ex. i have heard that those are better than the D16Z6 motor.

 

vetech ****in noobs

 

well the hp/tq diff between the two is negligible, so i mean i guess if you like increased chances of a spun rod bearing you could go with a y8 lol

 

lol lmao he wants to put a phone in his car lol lmao

 

no that's vtech not vetech lol

 

wow... ok... I am in a similar position... so I can bestow some knowledge (guys correct me if I am wrong...) I keep hearing that the mpfi swap is your best bet to start. (basically because of the whole 4 injectors thing) this can easly set you up to put in that d16 you were talking about pretty easily. At some point you are going to want the si tranny due to the fact that it has better gearing. Then beyond that you got to figure it out...

 

MPFI swap is mandatory for any honda with dual point. seriously.

 

i understand that the mpfi swap needs to be done but if i put the VETEC head in the car and put the D16 intake on it would it be cheaper and more effective to do that or swap to mpfi and put some other moter in the car???? and i appreciate everyone making fun of me not being able to spell would you make fun of a kid with down syndrom some people need to grow up a little....

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFeYR_QAzA4

 

DX,STD (DPFI) -> Si,HX (MPFI) wiring
PARTS/TOOLS NEEDEDPrices are in canadian currency and may vary depending on where you go)
- Si ECU(PM6 for manual transmission)..................................... .................................................$ 75-$120
- Si Distributor....................................... .................................................. ...................................$50-$120
- MPFI intake manifold - including throttle body, fuel rail, injectors......................................... ......$70-$90
- Resistor Box(88-91 Si)............................................... .................................................. ............$20-$40
- Si wiring harness(needed for injector plugs, injector resistor box plug, and distributor plug).........$0-$10
- Intake manifold gasket- (not needed but recommended)...................................... ......................$15-$20
- Manifold Support Bracket .................................................. .................................................. ..$0-$10
- Si fuel line from filter to fuel rail.............................................. .................................................. ..$0-$5
- some extra wire .................................................. .................................................. ...................$3-$7
- electrical tape or heat shrink(better).................................... .................................................. .....$1-$10
- wire stripper/cutter............................................ .................................................. ......................$5-$15
- soldering gun and solder(not needed but highly recommended)...................................... .............$10-$18

Parts could cost anywhere between $230-$405 depending on what kinds of deals you can find and where you get them from, it may also be cheaper if you buy everything from one person all at once


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MPFI manifold on left, DPFI manifold on right.

It is much easier to use your existing DPFI harness and just add the extra 4 wires that will be needed. The Si harness will be much harder to use.

There are two major wiring changes that you'll have to do going from a DPFI system to an MPFI and a couple other minor things that need to be done too. The first one is the crank angle sensor wiring which is the easy part. The second one is the fuel injector wiring which is slightly more complicated. Also, you'll have to switch the two wires on the TPS because the TPS on the new intake works in the opposite direction. If you dont switch them, the ECU will think that the engine is at Wide open throttle when its actually at idle. I highly recommend soldering and heat shrinking any electrical connections you will be making because it is very possible for connectors to come loose from all the vibration and solder will hold up better in the long run. Also, the TPS and EACV plugs are too short and they'll have to be extended. You're also going to have to switch the manifold support bracket, since the bolt parrern from the support to manifold is different from DX to SI, although they still bolt up on the block the same.
TO HOOK UP THE MULTI-POINT CRANK ANGLE SENSOR:
- First, you'll have to go to the passengers foot well to where the ecu is located.
- Pin B10 and B12 should both be empty.
- You'll have to cut and move the wire that goes to pin C1(orange) over to pin B10, and move the wire from pin C2(white) over to pin B12. Don't get these two mixed up or else the ignition timing will be severly retarded. Leave enough wire at the ECU side of pin C1 and C2 for next step.
- Now run wires from pins C1 and C2 into the engine compartment and label them.
- There will be a connector on the new Si distributor with two unused pins. One of the wires will be blue/green stripe, and the other will be blue/yellow stripe.
- The wire that is blue/green stripe will go to the wire from pin C1 on the ECU and the other wire that is blue/yellow stripe will go to the wire from pin C2.




SWITCHING THE WIRES AT THE TPS:
This pretty much explains itself, just switch the two outside wires(green/white and yellow/white) around at the TPS and then you're done this step. I used the TPS connector off the Si harness, just so that I could just match up all the wires, since the wires are already reversed on it.

INJECTOR WIRING
(In the car):
First of all, while you're still in the passengers footwell, cut wires A3(yellow) and A7(red), although leave some wire on the ECU side for later use. Now run wires from pins A3 and A7 into the engine compartment and label them.

(Engine Compartment):
- Mount the injector resistor box up on the drivers side shock tower.
- Connect the yellow/black wires from the two DPFI injector harnesses and run it to the yellow/black wire on the injector resistor box.
- Connect the yellow wire from the DX injector to the #1 injector (brown wire).
- Connect the red wire from the DX injector and run it to the #3 injector (blue wire).
- Connect the wire you labelled A3 to the #2 injector (red wire).
- Connect the wire labelled A7 to the #4 injector (yellow wire).
- Then, connect the 4 red/black wires coming from injector resistor box to each of the four injectors.




Completed Wiring Diagram





Distributor wiring completed


You should have three extra plugs left over after you are done the swap. two of them are the old DPFI injector plugs, and the other one is for the tandem vavle for the DPFI system, which you do not use on the MPFI system, you can either just cut it off, or tuck it away somewhere.


Left over plugs

this is the mpfi swap i was thanking of doing...

 

I appreciate the help guys.. still learning....

 

all that info on how to spell vtec and you still misspelled it

 

my thoughts exactly. even capitalised it.

 

speaking of spelling incorrectly, its capitaliZed...... so quick to rip someone up.

cap·i·tal·ize

Pronunciation:
\ˈka-pə-tə-ˌlīz, ˈkap-tə-, British also kə-ˈpi-tə-\
Function:
verb
Inflected Form(s):
cap·i·tal·ized; cap·i·tal·iz·ing
Date:
1764
transitive verb
1: to write or print with an initial capital or in capitals
2 a: to convert into capital <capitalize the company's reserve fund> b: to treat as an amortizable investment in long-term capital assets rather than as an ordinary operating expense to be charged against revenue for the period in which it is incurred <capitalize development costs>
3 a: to compute the present value of (an income extended over a period of time) b: to convert (a periodic payment) into an equivalent capital sum <capitalized annuities>
4: to supply capital for
intransitive verb
: to gain by turning something to advantage : profit <capitalize on an opponent's mistake>

 

i was using firefox as my spell check. it said capitalized was wrong.
but we put HUGE emphasis on it being spelt VTEC. not VTECH, the phone. not vetec, which is something completely stupid and non-existant.

 

why r we feuding .. hes from tenn. he obviously spells multiple things differently. lol

 

Assuming you have a good low mileage engine. Spend your money on non vtec parts. You can do more and spend less! First do the MPFI swap. Get a header and CAI. If you want more then get a cam and adjustable cam gear.

every idiot wants vtec.
vtec= $$$$$$$$$

vtec was designed for fuel economy not for going fast. DO SOME RESEARCH

 

this man speaks truth. vtec can make you go fast... but you can do more with a turbo and other bolt ons.

 

absolutely!!!

 

This thread is unreadable rubbish.