Stiffer front or rear rates? whats the difference if I get stiffer fronts/rears. or the same? thanks in advance

 

That depends GREATLY on what the car is for, how dropped you are, and preference of ride quality.

 

Generally speaking, the rear rate has the biggest impact on both ride quality and rotation.

Ah, screw it. Do some searching brotha, here and on Google.

 

Rotation? whats that?
Well honestly i'd sacrifice ride quality for performance, though i do dd and occasional canyon runs.
I will be wanting to tire tuck, if anything or a little above that.

 

Just like it says. The rear of the car will rotate while going through a turn. Basically oversteer.
Some of use track guys love it because you can stay under acceleration while going through a corner. You might hear the term "loose is fast".
I would not recommend too aggressive of a setup for the street though, because if for some reason you are in an oversteer situation and you need to lift off the gas, well then, weeeeeeeeeeee, phone pole.

I would recommend starting off with moderate spring rate on an adjustable dampener. Unfortunately it is a matter of trial and error to find a spring combination you like. I started off running ~400lb front and ~500lb rears on my 2400lb EG and found this too soft.
I bumped up to ~560 front (10K) and ~670 rear (12K) and this was acceptable for dd.
Since I don't really dd anymore, I'm currently at ~670 front (12K) and ~780 rear (14K).

 

thanks

 

Alright, I have to jump in, lol.

Any rates over 400lb/in in the rear and your kidneys will ache, unless the roads where you live ar perfect all over. Adjustable shocks would help, but little gaps in the road might become annoying after time. I suggest starting out low and gradually increasing rates as necessary. Here's a video of my old Skunki2 Pro-S setup on crappy roads...lots of harsh jolting - not so much BOUNCING, but you'll see.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9ANx9uR0LY

I'd recommend 400f 350r for starters. A bit stiff, but perfect for dd. Suit yourself if you want more performance, but you can have more comfortable springs and thicker sway bars to get what you want. That's what I did

 

and the pro s isn't even THAT stiff. what are they, like 450 front and i forgot what in the rear? the rates really need to be set to where you are driving. 300f 250r would work great for a guy in the country with pot holes and rough change backs. smooth tracks would be more in line with what the eg guy above posted way up in the 700lb range. there really is no one generic rate that fits.

 

Crap or poorly adjusted shocks = bad. I have 400/500 GC and find it fine - it absorbs bumps and you don't even notice they were there.

 

Running 12k fronts and 10k rears on my Pro-C's and think the ride is quite nice. It trally depends on the whole car a POS loose car will be rough no matter what. Loose/Worn bushings will also cause a harsh ride.

 

?? I regularly see over 700-1000lb rears on most track cars I run with.
For my dd, I installed an EDFC from Tein to allow dynamic adjustment of the damping while driving. Full soft for the street, semi for the back roads, and stiff for track. Worth every penny.

 

Right, it's not THAT stiff, but when you compare it to the stock rates it becomes readily apparent that the ride quality is GOING to suffer, lol. Sure, shocks are important as hell...ah screw it, beating a dead horse here :D

Try some different rates, make changes...do what you want. In the end, you're gonna be spending money to find what you like.