After I drive my car for about 20 miles the steering wheel starts to shake back and forth. I believe I am having two problems. When I make turns left or right it sounds like my right axel is clanking loudly and it's getting louder with time. Even when I raise my rmp I hear clicking. The longer I drive the louder the clicking gets even at low rpm. All the boots are in good condition. My car is up on jack stands and everything seems tight and in place.

 

when it come is shaking it can be alot of reason's either worn rack and pinion compentants bad balance worn bearings incorrect axel etc but how did you check to see if everything was nice and tight.

 

I lifted the car and I grabbed ahold of everything such as the axels tie rods and everything conected to the wheels, suspension and steering and tryed shaking them to check for play. I also checked all the nuts to make sure they were tight. I think it is the axel it seemes severely damaged even though the boots look good, but my father said it has to be something with the tie rods or ball joint. I had an axel that clanked like this before and when I replaced it everything was fine, but I need to know if the axel is about to break could it cause the wheel to shake back and forth?

 

i remmeber when i broke my axel its didnt shake on me but it mine have to do with ur tierods etc its hard to tell unless i get a info on how it started and when etc...

 

It sounds like wheel bearings and tierods to me...But like DB1 said, it can be alot of things, did someone install your front wheels with an impact gun and no wobble bar or torque wrench...Because if you install wheels with an uncalibrated gun, you can ruin the wheel by bending the wheel or streching a wheel stud! Always tighten all lug nuts by hand then use a Torque wrench and set it at 60 ft lbs then go over again at 80-85 ft lbs, in a star pattarn.

 

If you're axle is clanking that it needs to be replaced. It would be a good idea to start with that and then see how it is afterward. Axles can go bad without the boots tearing, a torn boot just makes it happen much faster.

Often shaking is from wheels being off balanced, so you could swap the front and rear wheels to see if that helps any. If it does, then you know it's the wheels also. Do all of that, and if it's still shaking, then start looking at tie rods/ ball joints, bearings, etc.

One more note, if the wheel only shakes when braking, (or gets worse when braking), your rotors are probably out of true.

 

I would suspect an axle to be the cause of your problem especially the inside joint and especially if the shaking is more violent during accel. As stated if you have a bad axle for sure tehn start there. You will at least kill one bird with one stone.Maybe 2. Good luck.

 

It started with clanking when made turns. Then it started clanking whenever I made a long trip and I raised my rpms obove 3500. Now I can not make a trip over ten miles with out it clanking when im driving in a strait line. The clanking is getting louder and the wheel starts to shake about the same time I here the clanking. It didn't used to shake untill recently. I put the tires on my self and only tightend them with a heavy duty rachet. I tightend one lug nut and the one across from it and so on. I tightend them very tight, because one time the nuts came loose and broke all but one wheel stud and my tire flew off when I was driving 70 mph. I do not think its the balancing of the tires because I have experianced that shaking before and it only happend at certain speeds. I believe this problem only happens after something gets hot. When I pull over for a minute it will return to normal for a short period. The tierods apear to be in good shape, but when I turn the wheel back and forth I can see part of it pop in and out of the boot and I can see the ball joint. It does shake slightly when I step on the brakes, but I think that could be from me being rough on my breaks and they need resurfacing. What is up with the auto zone axels? My friend can give me a new one for cheep, but alot of people say they are garbage.

 

An autozone axle is better then no axle, and it sounds now that you need axles, tierods, lower ball joints, and maybe rotors...If your rotors warp due to excessive heat, that can cause your streeing wheel to shake, that is even an ASE question on the A5 exam.

 

I am going to try and get that autozone axle in tomorrow and while im in there I will look for damage to the other componets. Where exactly is the wheel bearing located?

 

see the reason that people say that autozone axels suck is because autozone rebuilds them. And especially Honda axel's they don't check them properly. My friend had to go back to autozone 3 times but he finally got a good axel.

 

garbage but worth every penny i take mine back every year just cause its lifetime lol but it sounds like the lug stud but again im unsure im guessing it can be the axel have you checked to see if the joints on the inside is in correct

 

on the hub there is no real way of looking at it for damaged its more of a feel and sound jack up the car till ur front wheel off teh ground shake the tire up and down if there is play your bearing is shot if you shake the tire at 2 oclock n 7 o'clock you can check your ball joint if there is any movement at all ur ball joints is bad honda/acura ball joint have zero axial movement

 

I'm running 2 Autozone axles with zero problems...but who cares if they go bad, they replace them for free! And for the price you cant beat it..

 

have you put the new axles in yet? Let us know outcome?

 

I am trying to take the axel off now. I have it out by the rotor, but I can not figure out how to pull it out of the tranny. Can some one please explain how to do this? Also I need to know the next step to check the wheel bearing and the tie rod/ball joint. I have every thing apart now and have to get it back together asap.

 

use a pry bar. it helps a lot.

 

Thank you I never would have figured that out on my own. I have the axel out now.

 

Cool...just be careful not to pry against the transmission seal when prying out the axle. I have a rock chisel I like to use. Just give it a quick pop in between the trans and the axle and it pops right out usually.

 

I finaly have the new axel. I am about to put it in and see how it works.

 

When I put the other axel in I had to pull on it to make it reach in the hole by the rotor. It streched the boot out thats conected by the trany. The boot caved in and does not look right. When I compared the axels in the store it looked a little shorter, but my friend said that is because they expand when the get worn. Is this ok?

 

ive worked on so many integras especially the axels... there easy to install but at times can be a hassle..the axel should slide right in the only hard part is installing the rotor side once its in just put it all back together pretty simple dont worry about the boot as long as it dont slip off the axel or gets a tear then your good... once its on and all your bolts screws etc are back on take it for a spin ..no not a race a lil spin drive around for a bit and see how it goes..let the axel sit in place...

be sure you hear a click or some sort of thud when you put the axel in if you dont chances are its not in all the way and will pop out later..

good luck

 

When I accelerate quickly the wheel turns to the left about 1 or 2 0clock. Is this normal? Other than that the axel fixed all my problems. By the way they forgot to ask me for my core at auto zone. The life time warenty is is going to come in handy ha ha. The axel didnt "slide right in"; I had to pound on it a little with a ruber mallet to get the axel to seat against the tranny.

 

Good job Did you put cotter pins back in the lower control arm castle nuts ? If not go back and do that. just athought