alright heres my dilemma, im trying to figure out which cams would be best for me to use for my nitrous setup. i was thinking maybe pro 1's or pro 2's maybe someone can help me out heres what my setup consist of....

its a sleeved gsr block bored out to 83mm 11:1 CP pistons, pauter rods, serviced LS crank, gsr head with supertech springs and retainers, hytech rep headers, 3in. piping, edelbrock intake manifold with 75mm t/b and a 4fogger system

im looking to actually do a 75-100 shot single fogger out the hole and then use the 4fogger with a 200-250 shot.

if you guys have any useful info please throw it my way, thanks

 

I would post this in the forced induction section. You might get a couple more reponses.

I have heard of a couple guys running the pro2s with decent sized shots.

 

alright thanks

 

Either cam will work well. Run the cam that will make the most power on motor. Also, run a big port for all the extra fuel you will have in the intake port.

 

big exhaust port?

 

Just try to stay away from to much overlap.

 

thanks for the info but i need more specific details, as for running a big port do u mean porting out the intake side of the head?

 

I'm pretty sure he's talking about the intake ports. However you should be alright for now w/ a small 100 shot. I run a Comp Cam w/ a port kit on a Z6. If your just getting started use stock cams and concentrate on de-burring and polishing your pistons and combustion chambers, coatings are a good idea and retard 2 degree (ignition) for every 100hp you juice, 4 if you don't do the polishing end. BTW I run BP 93 up to a 125 shot. Good luck and get the COMPS!

 

BTW 2 stages? a 100 and 250 damm thats F#@$kn' ambitious. The 100 wet shot in your intake tube is gonna be followed by a 250 shot from a port kit?. How are you gonna control it? I use a throttle switch, window switch(w/two adj. rpm modules) and a master.

 

yes sir that is the plan

 

From all my experiences with nitrous, which ranged from a 50 up to a 300hp. Ive alwayss have taken 2 degrees for every 50 shot. One you get it dialed in you can start taken alittle more out once you try to get it tuned.

 

need that info coming

 

Yeah...most of the basic head porting jobs people sell clean up the short turn and then open the cross section a little and put a finish to make it look pretty. It increases airflow but the port volume doesn't accomodate much extra fuel. Remember that Honda designed these ports for 1.6 and 1.8L motors making 160-200hp...and the fuel associated with making that power. 350hp worth of nitrous requires a LOT of extra fuel and it will take up port volume. If it was my motor, I would run as large of a port as you could in that casting similar to what an alcohol car would do. Same thing goes for alcohol....every time we go larger the car makes more power whether cfm and velocity are increased or not.

You don't have to do it...it will run fine without it. I ran a lot of nitrous on my EVO on top of 25psi and those ports suck!! LOL!

 

thanks for clearing it up, i'll definitely look into getting ported i rather do it once and do it right

 

Nice!, I wanna stick a 100 wet shot in my Intake tube. That would give me 2 stages a 100 and a 160........160 is not enough, I'll go 225 (NOS 04430 is currently installed on my car). Nitrous does like alot of compression to "light it off", start w/ your plugs at .030, pay close attention to de-burring and polishing your pistons and combustion chambers, I can't stress it enough any sharp edges will glow red and cause detonation. 1 pic of my #4 piston top:

 

yea thats what i want to do 100shot in the intake tube and the 200 or 250 with the 4 fogger but definitely with make sure everything is down to spec b4 i spray the motor im not a fan of doing things twice when it can be done right the first time

 

....

 

Since your talkin' about getting up to spec., I don't see anything about stainless valves in your OP, you already got them?. What kind of battery are you gonna run?, your battery and alternator are two very important parts too. It takes alot of DC to open sols., operate your spark box and all the other s%$t. Got a Blanket(s) and warmer(s)?, if your in a cooler climate like myself, you'll need it however the warmer should be off once you hit the water box.

 

yea i have supertech vavles, but i heard that stock vavles flow better the aftermarket vavles. idk how true that is. as for the alt and battery i didnt know i wasnt able to use the oem ones but since u mentioned it u have a good point with all the sols, blanket etc. i also have the blanket as well, i apologize im new to the nitrous scene ive always been more of a turbo guy.

 

still need info on the cams

 

I'm gonna quit hogin' your thread....but use your stock cams for now, keep it simple. Too many variables for a newbee. Run one stage to start, I'm still using my P28 ECU. Supertech valves, springs, retainers and locks are in my car w/ a "multi angle" valve job. Someone else give some info I'm not sharing anymore secrets, Good luck!!!!

 

I run the pro1's on my setup and they work great on motor, and even better on the bottle. As everyone previously mentioned, when you do a large shot you need as much port volume as you can get. I posted a diy head porting a while back and everyone laughed and said your ports are too big, toss the head in the garbage, etc.. Need less to say, even with the huge ports, the car made 215 hp/ 147 tq on motor. Im expecting to see just over 400 on the bottle. My question is, do you plan to run any sort of window switch/ progressive controller? I have a Dyno Tune progressive controler which in my eyes is the best investment when your spraying a car. You can tune the amount of shot, IE: you have 100 shot jets in, but the controller is only on 70%, then it only sprays a 70 shot. You can also tune the length of time from pulsing it to a full shot. That in my eyes could help save your motor alot as the 'hit' of nitrous is usually what makes a motor go pop! If you slowly introduce it, it cooperates alot better.

 

What solenoids are you using? The progressive controllers are the way to go but I know guys that beat the hell out of solenoids as they ramp in because it is constantly turning the solenoid on and off.

 

Lack of fuel makes a motor go pop.

 

what do u guys think about coating the pistons??