Oil on spark plugs

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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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oakpwr's Avatar
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From: garden grove, ca
Default Oil on spark plugs

I did a search, I'm guessing it might be the oring seals below the plug tubes but I want to be sure. Anyone know how much it costs to have this done?

Diagnosis: 89 crx si stock 1.6 engine. Car runs great but last year it stalled out in first gear. Pulled the plugs and saw #1 and #3 were covered in oil (the plugs were covered in oil on the bottom of the plug). Changed out plugs, the valve gasket and the spark plug tubes. Car ran fantastic for six months and then it stalled out pulling away from a stop light last week. Fired right back up but I notice it has a harder time on a cold start and it seemed to bog a lot and I suspected it was the spark plugs again.

Pulled them today and #1 and #3 again were covered in oil. Did a search and one tech suggested that it could be a o ring seal below the tubes. It looked like a bitch to change that out, anyone do it? Is it easy? Or could the problem be something else?

Thanks for the advice!
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 06:51 PM
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xaine's Avatar
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From: birmingham, alabama, us
Default Re: Oil on spark plugs

i have had this problem before
u can either pull the whole valve train assembly and replaced the o rings or

i jerry rigged mine by, cleaning the spark tubes out real good and slapping some sealant on the inside where the leak was
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 07:36 PM
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Default Re: Oil on spark plugs

Here is a writeup on the job (both the easy seals in the valve cover and the harder-to-reach seals deep in the spark plug tubes): http://honda.lioness.googlepages.com...sparkplugtubes . I would call it a task for someone with advanced beginner or intermediate level experience, e.g. the person has done a timing belt or set valve lash.

Last edited by honda.lioness; Apr 27, 2009 at 08:53 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 08:14 PM
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JustOneOrTwoPosts's Avatar
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From: yay area, ca, usa
Default Re: Oil on spark plugs

Originally Posted by xaine
i have had this problem before
u can either pull the whole valve train assembly and replaced the o rings or

i jerry rigged mine by, cleaning the spark tubes out real good and slapping some sealant on the inside where the leak was
valve train assembly? I don't think so man.. It took me only 15 minutes to do the spark plug seals AND valve cover gasket. You can do it yourself if you are mechanically confident in yourself. If not, just take it somewhere.
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 08:46 PM
  #5  
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From: SGV, CA
Default Re: Oil on spark plugs

1.) Remove spark plugs wires, and disconnect the breather hose.


2.) Remove bolts from valve cover.


3.) Remove Valve Cover


4.) Replace all O-rings(clean the valve cover before placing new orings)


5.) Make sure valve cover gasket it properly in place and place honda bond
on all four corners. If the gasket is worn or torn you may need to replace it.


6.) Place valve cover back in place and slightly shift it around into place
to set the Orings.
Wait 5-10mins for honda bond to set then reverse steps 2-1.

Note: Never work on the engine while it is hot.
Let it cool down before you work on it.
Also disconnect the battery to play it safe.
I don't want to be held responsible for you killing yourself...

Anyways thats it.

photos are courtesy of georgebelton.com
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 07:45 AM
  #6  
xaine's Avatar
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From: birmingham, alabama, us
Default Re: Oil on spark plugs

ok thats a good write on vc gaskets
but what we are talking about is the o rings under the valve train
which will require timing belt removal
you sould not have to reset the valve lash!
so if you can do a belt its easy
ive done it with out pulling the timing cover
just slide belt off cam gear and slide back on after done
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 10:47 AM
  #7  
honda.lioness's Avatar
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Default Re: Oil on spark plugs

Originally Posted by xaine
what we are talking about is the o rings under the valve train
which will require timing belt removal
I replaced these o-rings under the valve train. Timing belt removal is not necessary and I do not see an advantage to removing the T-belt.

you should not have to reset the valve lash!
Chilton's for one says to back off the valve lash adjusting screws "two turns at a time, in a criss-cross pattern" to prevent damage, because the springs of the assembly are still loaded, and tolerances are close. I backed off the adjusting screws and then at the end reset the valve lash. No big deal.
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