high idle problem
i have a b18c5 in my 91 crx and its idling at 2000 rpms and the check engine light is on i already replaced the tps sensor and didnt fix it, any other suggestions ? any info would be appreciated
o2 sensor.
it is probably the primary, the one on the header.
advance auto has the OEM and the aftermarket ones. either or will be fine.
price difference $100 to $140 between (ofcourse, OEM more $$)
it is probably the primary, the one on the header.
advance auto has the OEM and the aftermarket ones. either or will be fine.
price difference $100 to $140 between (ofcourse, OEM more $$)
i was told it was throwing a tps code but apparently they were wrong b/c i replaced that and it did nothing im working on getting it check again to find out if someone else can give me another answer
TPS could be out of adjustment though.
I'm actually searchign for an idle solution myself that's how I found your thread. I also have a ITR engine in my CRx but my idle issue is different.
Let me give you my understanding of the entire system, it may help you out and someone else may want to comment.
When you start the car and it's cold the IACV starts to modulate and it allows more air into the engine, this raises the idle. Once the car warms up the IACV stops functioning and you could actually unplug it and the car wouldn't change idle (it would throw a code though).
During this now "warm / hot" iding condition the throttle valve is shut and the IACV is not allowing additional air in. So the idle is completely controled by the "idle air screw". This is right above the throttle body openning and is usually covered in wax from the factory. It's set and usually doesn't need to be adjusted. Turning this screw will either raise or lower you warm idle. Factory manual actually tells you to unplug the IACV and adjust the idle from this screw when the car is warm.
In this system the TPS does do a little bit. It tells the ECU the throttle position (during idle it's closed) and thus signals the computer the car is at idle. The switch can be adjusted and needs to show .45 volts when the throttle is shut. If it shows more the ECU will think the throttle is open and signal the ECU the same thing. You need this correctly adjusted so the ECU knows the car is stopped and idling. Now if the TPS is set incorrectly the other way then it will tell the ECU your still idling even though you have the throttle slightly depressed, this is bad too and sometimes causes the bouncy idle.
There's a good read on Hondata's website about this interaction along with the IACV.
http://www.hondata.com/techidle.html
So my issue is a little different than yours, I have my IACV unplugged and my idle is at 1300 RPM. I can't turn the idle air screw anymore, it's completely shut yet it's still idling high. So I think I have a air leak somewhere. The idle screw is closed but the engine must be getting air from somewhere else.
Anyway, hope this helps
I'm actually searchign for an idle solution myself that's how I found your thread. I also have a ITR engine in my CRx but my idle issue is different.
Let me give you my understanding of the entire system, it may help you out and someone else may want to comment.
When you start the car and it's cold the IACV starts to modulate and it allows more air into the engine, this raises the idle. Once the car warms up the IACV stops functioning and you could actually unplug it and the car wouldn't change idle (it would throw a code though).
During this now "warm / hot" iding condition the throttle valve is shut and the IACV is not allowing additional air in. So the idle is completely controled by the "idle air screw". This is right above the throttle body openning and is usually covered in wax from the factory. It's set and usually doesn't need to be adjusted. Turning this screw will either raise or lower you warm idle. Factory manual actually tells you to unplug the IACV and adjust the idle from this screw when the car is warm.
In this system the TPS does do a little bit. It tells the ECU the throttle position (during idle it's closed) and thus signals the computer the car is at idle. The switch can be adjusted and needs to show .45 volts when the throttle is shut. If it shows more the ECU will think the throttle is open and signal the ECU the same thing. You need this correctly adjusted so the ECU knows the car is stopped and idling. Now if the TPS is set incorrectly the other way then it will tell the ECU your still idling even though you have the throttle slightly depressed, this is bad too and sometimes causes the bouncy idle.
There's a good read on Hondata's website about this interaction along with the IACV.
http://www.hondata.com/techidle.html
So my issue is a little different than yours, I have my IACV unplugged and my idle is at 1300 RPM. I can't turn the idle air screw anymore, it's completely shut yet it's still idling high. So I think I have a air leak somewhere. The idle screw is closed but the engine must be getting air from somewhere else.
Anyway, hope this helps
Trending Topics
striker this may be obvious but u can check the code yourself...peel back passenger carpet (under glove box) find ecu and count the blinks on the see thru window.... each long blink is 10 and shorts are 1 so 2 long 1 short would be 21 or Vtec solenoid...this is just an example and u prob already know this...u can google the code and find out what it is...hope i can help
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
russian_racer
Tech / Misc
4
Jun 28, 2003 02:01 PM




