TEchs,
I have a 90 civic hatchback made in Canada.
1.5L, 4-speed manual with 250k miles
Car came with aftermarket K&C air filter and intake. (recently cleaned)

Engine light on for about two years:
I'm trying to avoid diagnostic charge, the Ford & Chevy guys"around these parts" don't know how to diagnose older Hondas and the dealers, well you know what they charge.

Honda mechanic friend told me it was IACV, Idle Air control valve because of the eradtic idle up and down when stopping at idle.
I replaced IACV with a "rebuilt one" cleaned it really good, same problem. Perhaps it was a bad rebuild?

Anyways, this is my beater car so I keep driving with engine light coming on, because ac works great and it runs fine, no stalling problems at this time.

Engine Light comes on after a minute or two of driving in city, but does not come on if I go on highway within one mile of starting it up. Typically I leave the gun range, drive one mile, hop directly on the highway drive about 65-70mph for 18 miles. As soon as I get off the highway and stop at the end of the exit ramp the engine light comes on and remains on for the remainder of my time driving in the city.


Car fails to start for first time ever
I just recently replaced distributer, cap, & rotar. Problem is fixed, old stuff burned out.

New stalling problem erupted that never happened ever before.

Problem: sputtering and stalling
bad gas? water in the gas?

I added gas treatement and changed fuel filter.
Haven't experieced sputtering, in the recent few miles after fuel filter change and gas treatment, but will still stall after idling for several minutes.

Are there any other modules that effect idle?
Please help.

All input is appreciated,
Capt Ron

 

Hmm seems like it would be a bad rebuild because the IACV can give you those type symptoms. I was going to say the distributer but you've done that already. I had the same type of problem for my hatch when I first got it. Check your the spark plugs and the spark plug wires to make sure they are not worn. The distributer itself may also need to be replaced. Also clean the carb. It helps alot.

 

Fuel injection model no carb. Wires are replaced every year under Advanced auto warranty.
When the car studders it's almost like a buck! as if the key was turned off electrically. It happened again this morning after driving fine last night for a few miles.

Could the guys who replaced my distributer, cap and rotar screwed something up?

 

I ment to say throttle body... sorry bout that...