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my tach at times will start jumping at 4k and then do this in vtec more so when it is cold out

and i get horrbile pinging and misifiring at wot but if i drive the car around for over an hour it drives better but still th tach goes nuts

also i moved the wiring on the sensor on top of the tb and my idle changed wtf???

 

looks like a grounding issue; make sure all your grounds are good. there may be a thread on here for the common ones to check; don't remember off the top of my head.

 

dang wish i knew what to check for and how to add better grounds

 

one thing you can do is supplement the main grounds if you can't find the source of the problem (i've done this to good results). i used two: one off the main battery negative terminal and one off the valvecover grounding screw (t-belt side, right in the middle). use some good, low-gauge cable and take them to grounding points on the body (use a volt meter to test for a solid ground).

 

what gauge would be good i got all different kinds

 

i don't know if it is a ground problem or not but the main engine harness ground is on the thermostat housing. check to see if it is tight. the battery ground runs down to the transmission and you have the valve cover ground on the driver side also.

 

seems like VSS wiriring issue. Have seen this once before in a DX, it had an Open curcit in the VSS wires, ran new wiries and problem was gone.

 

i think mine was 12 or 14 gauge. the misfiring and idling issues lead me away from just the vss, though that may be a problem.

 

Tranny ground from battery should be a large diameter wire such as #6 awg or bigger (smaller gauge means larger diameter for some reason, thats the crazy americans though jk, and canadians I suppose for using the same system.)

Most other grounds are safe to be 14 or 12 awg pretty much. Make sure grounds are on clean, unpainted/sanded, metal surfaces.

 

I've seen cheap/defective spark plug wires cause weird stuff like this. They should be a resistive EMI suppressing variety. If you can, you might also try borrowing a distributor to try--the sensors in there may be going out.

 

New autozone dizzy :barf:


And new ngk wires and plug

 

New autozone dizzy :barf:


And new ngk wires and plugs

 

And it did this with msd wires(for sale now)

 

I'm going to go exchange the dizzy for a new one

 

I've seen this happen multiple times with a loose ecu ground (thermostat housing). A faulty ICM would also cause the same problem. I'm betting it's a ground....MSD wires will work fine, though they're not much for noise suppression.

 

ok the ecu ground looks ok its not loos but maybe the wire isnide the connector is corroded ??? and there is no valve cover ground

 

also my jdm h22a came with a flex plate so that means it is from an automatic are any sensors different?????


what wires could we have overlooked when wiring the jdm h22a onto the 94 accord lx harness

 

nobody

non existant valve cover ground and the ecu ground is iffy it has a ghetto crimped ring terminal

 

Did you splice your harness? what componants did you splice if you did? what ecu are you using? have you checked the continuity of your connections with A DVOM (multi meter). Do you have a check engine light? to properly troubleshoot and isolate the problem we will need some more info on what you did to your harness and how you did it.

 

could be a ground like others have said, but I had this exact problem and it was the Ignition Control Module inside the Dizzy.. you can open the Dizzy up, take off rotor and cover plate, and check the wires. It might help to just disconnect them and get a new connection on them by wiggling it.

You're probably going to need a new Dizzy to get the new ICM..

I suggest King Motor Sports.com

 

If you're still looking for extra ground wires, I just bought a generic ground kit off ebay. I tossed the POS "distrobution plate" thing it came with and just supplimented my existing grounds. I also took all the factory grounds off and hit both the ring terminal and ground point with a wire brush.

 

if the ground wire on the thermostat has alot of corrosion that is problably your problem. pull the insulation back on the wire until you get to good wire. cut and solder new wire to good (not getto rigged) ring terminal. run a ground from the valve cover to the chassis and double check your transmission ground wire. see if this fixes it. the ground on your thermostat is for every sensor on the engine. so it can make it do some crazy things. as far as the flex plate don't worry about that. the sensors should be the same just make sure you don't have any plugs not hooked up.

 

someone come fix the car ill give you an h22a1 head and monies

 

alright these are alot of good suggestions but they are all guess'. this problem needs to be trouble shot...if it is suspected that a ground is the problem then the first thing you should do is a voltage drop test across the connection in question (any reading higher than 0.5 volts and that is a problem) , and also to check the integrity of the wire itself by performing a continuity test (*batt (-) disconnected) with a DVOM (less than 1 ohm is good). The next thing I would do if I did not locate a bad connection is look up connector pin values in a factory service manual for the distributor and check those with a DVOM. This also will allow you to test the componants inside the ditributor without taking it apart. Do not use anything less than a 10 Mohm DVOM since you are working on computer controlled circuts or you will damage the ECM. Your ignition control circuit includes the ECM since the ECM controls the advance/retard of the ignition timing that is why I wanted to know what ECM you were using.

 

I would check the coil and for moisture inside the distributor first, then go from there.