So i just bought a 1994 Acura Integra, with some "problems".
It had a alarm in it previously, i found the siren in the engine bay and misc. random wires cut hanging underneath dash.

Well here's the PROBLEM, my sunroof doesn't work (doesn't make any noises at all, as if its not getting power). Same with my door locks...They don't work either..

Could this be from a bad car alarm install ???

I need help bad! Because my drivers side door won't lock

 

well have you checked fuese? both under hood and dash. check ALL
or is it possible wires were leading to them?

 

I checked all the ones where the problems were occuring, such as: The power locks don't work, i checked that 1. And the fuses little metal wasn't broken so it was determined as working. Can a fuse be bad even with the metal piece still in 1 piece?

I called some ppl on craigslist for help, and the want like $75 JUST to diagnose...Rediculaous.

I'll go to schucks and just replace every single fuse..
any other suggestions?

 

crack open the door panel probe the switch with a test light and determine if the switch is at fault first.. search online for guides on how to do this..

 

Do you have a multimeter?

If it is only the drivers door that does not lock, [pass. door locks/unlocks properly] then the power door lock fuse must be good.

Yes, a fuse that looks good can still be bad, a fuse should be tested not just eyeballed, or replaced with a known working one.

Yes, a crappy alarm install can definitely cause electrical problems.

The first thing I would do is remove any wiring under dash that is not stock, "misc. random wires cut hanging underneath dash" and repair and OEM wiring that the alarm wiring was connected to.

Because it is only the drivers door that does not lock it may be a bad door lock actuator, a wiring issue between the actuator and power door lock control module, [possibly caused by alarm wiring], that's why removing the old alarm wiring should be first on the list. 94

 

dont replace everything thats a waste of money, the fusese may not be the problem.

but check the with a muliti meter
they can look good and still be bad, its happened to me a few times

 

Ok, I changed the fuses regardless. But that wasn't the issue. I started digging underneath the dash, found the remans of a DEI car alarm. Which isn't a "bad" find, but it was everything BUT the brain. Anyways i took all that **** out. And after i noticed there was only TWO random wires still there.

THEY WERE MY DOOR ACTUATOR WIRES.........wtf!!
They were ghetto rigged to some module on the previous car alarm

Please look at my diagram and tell me where these are suppose to go...

 

What model is your car? And are you sure they are aftermarket actuators. If they are. You are going to need to relays and a alarm or keyless entry system operate the actuators.

 

You said, " Same with my door locks...They don't work either"
You also said, "Because my drivers side door won't lock"

Please explain, is it the only the drivers side that the power door lock does not work on or is it both doors?

Do you mean the power door locks do not work on either door and you can't lock the drivers door at all?

By the look of you sketch I would guess that the power door locks are aftermarket and not stock.

Question, does you car have power door lock switches on the doors... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...ayphotohosting ?
If not then the door locks are aftermarket and as mentioned a pair of relays and a switch is needed for them to work and an alarm, [or othere R/F unit] is needed for key-less entry.

Also, if you mean the drivers door can't be locked, it may also be due to improperly "adjusted" linkage off the aftermarket actuator or possibly seized actuator, if it is aftermarket, disconnect the drivers actuator and see if the door will lock. 94

 

somebody made a boo boo!!

 

It isn't aftermarket, i'll ust hook it up to my new alarm. There arn't any spots or holes for a regular sort of door lock to go. Its power i'm pretty sure. But anyways i ordered new actuators and will get it installed correctly with my new alarm.

 

its hard to help you because you are not giving us the info needed. Can you please take pictures of the driver door with the pannel off. We still don't know if you have factory or aftermarket locks.

 

Ok, you guys are right. They ARE aftermarket. The car never had power locks, so the person who had the previous alarm installed must of desired power locks and added them. After looking at some websites, it seems that my new car alarm will work just fine. And i can easily add the 2 wires to a couple relays, modules etc. and the doors will work fine. I did buy new actuators, incase they are bad though.

Thanks for the help guys.

BTW i bought the Python 990.

Is that a good enough alarm????????

 

the 990 is a nice alarm, equivalent to the viper 5900. it will work fine. i just did a writeup on installing door lock actuators in 88-91 chassis' and i also made some diagrams that will be of much help to you.

If you are going to use the stock 3 pin/2 wire door lock harness that comes with the alarm, then wire up your actuators like so. it will require 4 standard 4-pin SPST relays.



If you want to use the dei 451m door lock relay, then wire it up like so. it will still require the use of 2 4-pin SPST relays. the 451m should come with a new 3 pin/3wire harness that will replace the stock 3 pin/2 wire harness.



i opted to do the 2nd method because i was able to get a 451m from ebay for $5 shipped, and i couldn't find 2 standard 12v relays locally for less than that. not to mention it cuts down on the amount of wires running every which way under the dash.

 

Say what??

Although the top, 4 relay set will work, you only need two SPDT relays to do polarity reversing.

Same with the 2nd setup, all you need is either the two SPDT relays or the 451m, [two SPDT relays in one box].

Your making it overly complicated and redundant.

Actuators/Reverse Polarity...
http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#arp 94

 

i realize i could have used 2 SPDT relays, but at the time of my researching all i could find was how to wire it this way. i now understand there is a better way to do it with just the 2 5-pin relays.

For the wiring with the dei unit i think i understand what you're saying. i had read that the dei unit was essentially 2 solid state spdt relays, so you can imagine my dismay when i could only get it to function like a spst relay would. i searched damn near everywhere and could not figure out what to wire the brn/blk and wht/blk wires to. what i did find said something about the door lock switch, and obviously i don't have door lock switches seeing as how my car did not have power dl's to begin with.

after further searching i found another site that said the brn/blk and wht/blk wires are to the normally open side of the relay and should be connected to chassis ground. now that i think i'm better understanding this little dei unit, i assume that if i run these 2 wires to ground i can just get rid of those 2 extra relays altogether. i'm learning as i go, but that does sound accurate yes?

i do think it was kind of ingenious though how i was able to get the locks working with the dei unit. even if i was making it harder than i had to :/ lol

 

That's what confused me, you seem to have come up with the most complicated way of doing it, especially the one with the 451m. 94