After installing a few new parts I went and got an alignment. Firestone Lifetime Alignment FTW!!

Results were

Front Left
Camber -1.5
Caster 1.8
Toe 0.08

Front Right
Camber -1.3
Caster 1.7
Toe
0.08

Front
Cross Camber -0.02
Cross Caster 0.1
Total Toe 0.16


Rear Left
Camber -3.3
Toe 0.13

Rear Right
Camber -2.9
Toe 0.09

Total Rear
Cross Camber -0.4
Total Toe 0.23

Running 12k fronts and 10k rear springs on S2 Pro-c coil overs, no camber kits. Stock EX front sway bar with a 19mm ST in the rear. Today is my first autocross event of the season. B-swapped 99 Hatch. 225/45/15 Toyo R1R

My main question is am I running too much negative camber in the rear and not enough in the front?

 

Yep! I don't know how you even got that much camber in the rear, unless your car is slammed. What are you doing with the car, and what tires are you using?

 

I think you are too. More camber in the rear and it might be hard to get the back end to rotate nicely. I would try to bring it to around -1.5 if you can.

 

Your front and rear camber specs are backwards.

 

Car is pretty low, just tucking the tread. Car is used mainly for autocross Tires are Toyo R1R 225/45/15. on 7.5" Rim

I cannot reduce negative camber in the rear due to clearance, but I can raise the car.

I have the sheet in front of me and unless they have the spec's backwards that's what it says.

Took 2nd place in SM today, only issue I seemed to have was my driving. I was occasionally picking up the rear when not following the correct line and pushing too hard.

 

Pics of height? If you're "tucking" you're probably a bit too low, and should raise it up.

 

lol... sorry. I didnt mean they were actually backward, but that is where Id probably start with alignment specs to begin with. You probably want the front around -2.5-3* and the rear around -1.5* camber.

 

 

Not slammed o the ground

 

The rear does look lower than the front. Raise it up a bit

 

That's my next move, as it will cost nothing. Do you think I should have it into the shop for an alignment check? I have lifetime alignment so it is free, just a 50 mile round trip.

On a side note the front is almost at the limit of lowering, maybe a 1/4" more at the coil over with no plans to go any lower. I plan to have the car corner weighted when I locate a facility, any pointers? And the S2 Pro-C are amazing. Rides a lot better than my friends EF with similar spring rates on koini yellows, sounds strange but it does.

 

Couldn't hurt to have an alignment check, but you'll most likely be ok. I'm surprised the front is that limited with you being that low.

Corner-weighting, my brother is actually doing that now (located just West of Baltimore, MD if you want to make that trip). Tips: do it with you in the car (and a passenger too, if you usually run with someone shotgun). There was a thread here recently discussing it in gross detail.

 

Please explain? Limited how?

 

Oops, I worded that very poorly. I mean that it seems like for your ride height (especially since you're out of adjustability in the shock) you should have more camber in the front. 1.5* is easy to get without much height difference. I'd expect you to be more around -2.0* at that height.

 

what wheels are those by the way?

 

You must have went to CPI with Central PA Region. I would say you are too low also. Suspension travel is the key for a good handling car. If a car is too low it will bounce off the bumpstops causing the tire/wheel to lose contact with the ground causing problems.

Even on my EF Si I had about 1-2 finger gaps between the fenderwells and the tops of the tires using SPSS3 Koni Shocks. And that little car gripped like hell

But yes the next step if you can find a shop is to get corner weighing. I should be up there to Central PA Region sometime this summer if I can get some time off.

 

Wheels are Konig Retracks.

I am running a "full coil over" and still have plenty of travel at the shock, travel is fine.

Would be nice to talk with you if your up, make sure you get my attention.

Just want to thank you all for your advise.

Next step is to raise the rear, I have put the word out looking for a set of scales no go so far.

 

Check I think racingjunk.com, maybe NASAforums (doubt it there), and the IT forums. Deals pop up now and then, but this isn't exactly the season for people to be getting rid of stuff either.

 

Sorry, should have clairified I'm looking for someone who has a set of scales. Buying a set is out of my budget at this point. There are a few dirt track racers near by that may have a set to rent or set me up with.

 

If it comes down to it what I did was get all the corners within about 1mm of each other with my weight in the car (or close to it). I used my wife and 2-3 wheels/tires Car of course has to be on level ground.

When I went to get my car corner weighed at my sponsor's shop in Columbia, PA the car was off by 5lbs He told me that is pretty much perfect.

Make sure you corner weigh the car or adjust the height as if you were autocrossing it. I usually have 1/4 tank of gas, air pressures at correct pressure and remove jack and spare.

 

shock travel and ride hight have there own adjustment points on the sk2 so hitting the bump stop wont happen without adding more drop.

 

The 96-00 civic has TONS of rear camber gain in compression.

 

What does that mean as far as ride height goes, Jimmy?

 

as you lower it, they gain negative camber much quicker then the DC/EG does.

That is because the Rear LCA is much longer then the EG/DC unit. Yet the Upper control arm is the same.

When speaking of camber going from 0 to negative is considered "gain".

 

Thats very interesting, had no idea that was the case. I have a rear camber kit on my dc and it took maxing it out to get -3.1!