i have a 2000 model jdm euro r accord with a h22a motor i am fully building i am considering building it with the following parts :
brian crower stage 2 camshafts and adjustable cam gears
new valves and titanium double valve springs
cylinder head ported and polised
cometic head gasket
srp forged piston kit 11.3:1 compression ratio
eagle connecting rods
arp head bolts and arp main bolts
acl big end bearings and main bearing kit
eagle crank shaft
light weight exedy fly wheel with stage 2 exedy clutch
apexi power fc ecu with commander /rolling road tuned
do in need to upgrade the sleeves to use the srp forged pistons or would it be ok and does anyone have a rough idea as to what sort of power i can expect from doing this any help welcome .

 

Goood luck with build!

 

I answered this in your Accord thread but I'll add to my answer here.

Here are what JE's specs about there H22 pistons state;

Other than that your going to want to do more than street tune it with an apexi power commander. For better results you would want to have ether a chipped Honda ECU or a stand alone engine management system. (AEM, Motech or Haltech) Tuned on a dyno. You will get better results.

You also don't really need the following, unless you have money to throw away.
Eagle crank, (spec the original and if it's OK re-use it)
arp head studs (New OEM head bolts are good, unless your boosting & you are obviously not)
Cometic HG (Again OEM are fine for a naturally aspirated build)
ACL bearings (IMO OEM again)
11.3:1 pistons (Stock H22A Euro R is 11:1 already, if you want more compression go 11.5 or 12:1)

 

when you get your head ported, have them mill it .015" that will get you 1/2 point of compression without replacing the pistons

 

in refference to the computer issue that i would need a stand alone engine management system the apexi power fc ecu is stand alone !!

 

My bad, You are correct

.....I've never seen one in use on a Honda around here...... Most stand alone EMS are AEM and a few Motech's. Chipped Honda ECU's are the predominant EMS, due to there reliability and price.

Oh by the way I also noticed that you have Titanium springs listed. They are meant for a limited use application. IE a drag engine where the engines are torn down and rebuilt on a regular basis.

Crowers website states that the ti springs are limited use and the steel springs are for street and strip, long term use.

 

thanks for the tip on the springs