Gm syncromesh or pennzoil syncromesh??
good to know about it GM dealership asking $48.00 for two quarts thats why..and i heard pennzoil is just the same thing and a lot cheaper thats why i just wanna make sure that it is the same thing so no need spend double...thanks
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The Pennzoil Syncro mesh and regular GM Syncromesh is the same thing.
Now GM does have a Friction Modifyed Syncromesh that is alot better than the normal GM Syncromesh and that stuff is like $20 a Quart.
Now GM does have a Friction Modifyed Syncromesh that is alot better than the normal GM Syncromesh and that stuff is like $20 a Quart.
they're different. you put automatic transmission fluid in an automatic, and manual transmission fluid in a manual...its pretty self explanatory.
god, do people seriously lack ALL common sense these days? walk in an auto parts store and just look around one day, its amazing the things you'll learn
god, do people seriously lack ALL common sense these days? walk in an auto parts store and just look around one day, its amazing the things you'll learn
with an answer like that, i assume you know everything
if i was following common sense i would think that the clutch system requires a special clutch fluid but that's not the case, because you use brake fluid in it.
if i was following common sense i would think that the clutch system requires a special clutch fluid but that's not the case, because you use brake fluid in it.
The friction modified fluid is really nice when it comes to syncromesh. It's about 14 bucks a quart here but shifts real nice. There are a lot of threads about this though that you can look at since many have their own opinions. I have never used pennzoil's nor redlines but all 3 are compared a lot
they're different. you put automatic transmission fluid in an automatic, and manual transmission fluid in a manual...its pretty self explanatory.
god, do people seriously lack ALL common sense these days? walk in an auto parts store and just look around one day, its amazing the things you'll learn
god, do people seriously lack ALL common sense these days? walk in an auto parts store and just look around one day, its amazing the things you'll learn
and the new formulation of MTF is meant for higher fuel economy, and slow granny driving. higher horsepower applications, or beating on the transmission and that fluid just can't hang
Actualy the new MTF was forumlated because the old stuff was causing problems with k-series transmissions, my friend works parts for Honda.
And it aparently works just fine for high power racing applications, a good friend of mine had a track only grind into 3rd and 4th at 100+mph and royal purple, redline, ect didnt fix it, however the new Greenlabel MTF fixed it right up.
And it aparently works just fine for high power racing applications, a good friend of mine had a track only grind into 3rd and 4th at 100+mph and royal purple, redline, ect didnt fix it, however the new Greenlabel MTF fixed it right up.
No go for me, just tried the Pennzoil Synchromesh today.
I had just swapped in a Y7 trans and had it temporarily filled with Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend. Drove it on Monday about 40 miles. No grinds or anything and seemed smooth.
This morning, I put in the Pennzoil Synchromesh (not the GM "Friction Modified" Synchromesh) as recommended by the internatz and took about the same route and distance. The transmission was notchy and once I got on the freeway I noticed it grinded 4th-3rd downshift. When putting it into 1st while stopped I could feel the gears "hitting" like the synchros were going out.
So on the way home I stopped by the Honda dealership and bought some Honda MTF and put it in. Drives fine now, no grinds and no issues. Seems to drive about the same as the 5W20 but I don't think I can depend on thin engine oil over the Honda MTF.
You might have better results from Friction Modified Synchromesh but I'll be sticking with Honda MTF unless a problem comes up. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
$15 down the drain, use Honda MTF! (at least for Y7 trans)
On a side note, my Mustang also grinds 4th-3rd downshift (odd coincidence) with GM Friction Modified Synchromesh. I always thought it was just the used trans, but now I'm not so sure.
Ford recommends to use ATF, so I'll be switching that too.
I had just swapped in a Y7 trans and had it temporarily filled with Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend. Drove it on Monday about 40 miles. No grinds or anything and seemed smooth.
This morning, I put in the Pennzoil Synchromesh (not the GM "Friction Modified" Synchromesh) as recommended by the internatz and took about the same route and distance. The transmission was notchy and once I got on the freeway I noticed it grinded 4th-3rd downshift. When putting it into 1st while stopped I could feel the gears "hitting" like the synchros were going out.
So on the way home I stopped by the Honda dealership and bought some Honda MTF and put it in. Drives fine now, no grinds and no issues. Seems to drive about the same as the 5W20 but I don't think I can depend on thin engine oil over the Honda MTF.
You might have better results from Friction Modified Synchromesh but I'll be sticking with Honda MTF unless a problem comes up. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
$15 down the drain, use Honda MTF! (at least for Y7 trans)
On a side note, my Mustang also grinds 4th-3rd downshift (odd coincidence) with GM Friction Modified Synchromesh. I always thought it was just the used trans, but now I'm not so sure.
Ford recommends to use ATF, so I'll be switching that too.
Last edited by D16Y8-JDMYO; Apr 29, 2009 at 12:45 AM.
I work for our local Honda dealership in the service dept.....The "green" label MTF that we sell is I hate to say it guys: Castrol 10w-30 regular oil, trust me I install it everyday, when we run out of the "green" label bottles, guess what goes in instead, engine oil. Dont beleve the BS about it having some special additives in it. when the economy went down so did everything else.... I have heard alot of people using the penzoil Syncromesh and no problems.
Had a customer come in with a 00 Si that grinded 2nd and 3rd. He told us about the penzoil fluid, We switched it out for him and he had no problems after that.
Since were on the subject of lubes:
The T-5 tranny that comes in all 5 spd mustangs uses ATF.
And Mobil 1 lost there Synthetic certification on motor oil cause they got caught mixing crued oil with Syn to keep cost down, Google it. We had to switch to Castrol Syn at the dealership to prevent a lawsuit.
Had a customer come in with a 00 Si that grinded 2nd and 3rd. He told us about the penzoil fluid, We switched it out for him and he had no problems after that.
Since were on the subject of lubes:
The T-5 tranny that comes in all 5 spd mustangs uses ATF.
And Mobil 1 lost there Synthetic certification on motor oil cause they got caught mixing crued oil with Syn to keep cost down, Google it. We had to switch to Castrol Syn at the dealership to prevent a lawsuit.
but still doesn't explain why putting in synchromesh made my trans grind while 5w20 and Honda MTF worked fine =/
just curious, how did you figure out Honda MTF is specifically Castrol 10w30?
from another random internetz
just curious, how did you figure out Honda MTF is specifically Castrol 10w30?
from another random internetz
Mobil 1 used to be made primarily with a group IV base stock which is mandatory for any product to be called synthetic in any country except the US. In the US Group III base stock which is made from purified Pertoleum is all that is required to be called a Sythetic, which is what most Castrol Syntec oil is made from (German Made Syntec is the exception as it is made from GIV stock).
Group III base stocks are very good oils. Castrol GTX from 20 years ago used to be made with Group III base stock and it was the best performing "regular" oil available, but that changed when Syntec was introduced (same product and GTX used to be but different bottle)
Some True Group IV Sythetic oils are Redline (GIV and GV), Royal Purple, Amsoil, German Syntec and others
Group III base stocks are very good oils. Castrol GTX from 20 years ago used to be made with Group III base stock and it was the best performing "regular" oil available, but that changed when Syntec was introduced (same product and GTX used to be but different bottle)
Some True Group IV Sythetic oils are Redline (GIV and GV), Royal Purple, Amsoil, German Syntec and others


