I have a D17 and am swapping to a D16Y8 intake manifold and throttle body, i know the swap is possible but I'm running into issues with the throttle body and manifold hitting the a/c lines.

The lines come through the firewall, turn up then across to the drivers side then over the engine to the compressor. I'm trying to figure out if i can re route the A/C lines so they don't interfere with the TB and manifold. I'm pretty good at fabricating things but don't have access to a welder that can do aluminum is there other solutions for re routing these lines or am i just stuck ditching the a/c?

Here are some pictures for reference

Throttle body






Manifold






and just the firewall

 

would something like this work?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...ku&Ns=P_Rank|0

 

Im at work so I cant see your pics,but they sell bulk ac hard line. Its not welded though. the fittings are crimped onto the ends of the line. Unfutunately the crimpers are ultra expensive because they are hydraulic. Somewhere around the 500$ range. you might be able to find some stock lines that will work if you look around. Also that stuff is soft you can usually bend it ouit of your way if you only need a little clearence.

 

That kit looks like you could cut the a/c lines and install an adapter, much like converting a fuel line to -AN fittings. I'm not sure if that could and would work. I have considered something like this when I reboost to move my a/c lines around.

Maybe post something like this in the welding forum and someone may be able to help you.

 

You can replace them with barrier hose, [A/C hose] and route them anyway you want.
How much work and cost that is will depend on a few things, mainly what type of fittings are used at the compressor, filter/dryer and evaporator.
Most systems will have a single manifold, both lines to compressor are connected to a single mounting manifold, with one line, [low side, thicker of the two] going to the evaporator and the other line, [high side] going to the condensor.
The same is true for the two lines going into the evaporator if a block expansion valve valve is used.
If the above is the case the aluminum line would have to be cut and a proper sized ferrules would need to be welded in place so a hose can be crimped to the line.
As mentioned none of the above is easy to do and expensive equipment is needed, welding aluminum is a trick all in itself.

Your looking at about a $300 - $500 job, [including parts] to do what is needed, don't forget a recovery, [if not already empty] and an evacuation and recharge is also needed, that's $100 - $200 alone.

I agree with srmofo aluminum lines are very soft and bend easily, if all you need is a little "diverting" you may be able to CARFULLY bend the lines out of the way, a pipe bending tool is needed, but can be rented pretty cheaply.

Hint 1 bend pipe very slowly, and a little at a time.
Hint 2 do not "kink" the line, re; bending tool.

What is the MM&Y of your car? 94

 

Thanks for all the help. I'm leaning towards carefully and slowly bending the lines to gain just a little clearance.

The car is an 03 civic coupe withe D17. The intake manifold and throttle body are from a 98 civic automatic with the D16y8. My car came with a plastic intake manifold so i am switching to the Y8 manifold to better hold up to my nitrous and later possibly boost.