22mm rear sway bar-does it make ride stiffer?
does this bar make the ride stiffer?i was able to drive a car with an upgrade rsb, but the road i tested it on was smooth so i couldnt tell.
this will go on my dc with koni/gc(350/250) set on full soft.
this will go on my dc with koni/gc(350/250) set on full soft.
it will not make the car any stiffer while driving in a straight line but it will help the car to corner better
do it, you won't regret it
but make sure you add some sort of subframe reinforcement so that the bar doesn't pull out
do it, you won't regret it
but make sure you add some sort of subframe reinforcement so that the bar doesn't pull out
A sway bar acts sort of like a lateral spring. So like TunerN00b said, you will only notice a difference when only one side hits a bump or dip...
So the rear sway bar is only for cornering purposes?
I am too want to upgrade my RSB and front and do alot of Freeway driving and no autocrossing, I don't know if my ride will benefit in this upgrade.
I am already running 500lbs GC with Koni Yellows in the front and 280lbs in the rear and to be honest I think the front is still too soft, thats coming from 380lbs. And it I stiffen the Koni in the front the ride will be bouncy. So I have it set only in half turn.
My Car has the OEM Front and Rear Sway Bars.
So your saying if 1 side hits a bump, it equals to 2 sides?
I rather spend the money in upgrading my factory sound.
What do you guys think?
I am too want to upgrade my RSB and front and do alot of Freeway driving and no autocrossing, I don't know if my ride will benefit in this upgrade.
I am already running 500lbs GC with Koni Yellows in the front and 280lbs in the rear and to be honest I think the front is still too soft, thats coming from 380lbs. And it I stiffen the Koni in the front the ride will be bouncy. So I have it set only in half turn.
My Car has the OEM Front and Rear Sway Bars.
So your saying if 1 side hits a bump, it equals to 2 sides?
I rather spend the money in upgrading my factory sound.
What do you guys think?
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A sway bar is also known as an ANTIsway bar or antiroll bar. It tries to keep the car from rolling or swaying, which of course only happens during cornering. It does this by connecting the suspension on each side together so that when the body rolls, the bar starts to twist, and the bar's stiffness will keep the body from rolling as much as if you didn't have the bar.
If you drive straight over bumps that both wheels go over at the same time, then the bar ends just move up and down with the suspension. TunerN00b was referring to driving over a bump or dip on one side, causing one side of the suspension to move while the other side does not. That's when the sway bar can start to affect the ride quality. A sway bar effectively raises the suspension's spring rate during cornering, so it would probably be slightly harsher over bumps, but not much.
I've thought about disconnecting my ITR 22mm rear bar and driving around just to see what difference in ride quality there is.
If you drive straight over bumps that both wheels go over at the same time, then the bar ends just move up and down with the suspension. TunerN00b was referring to driving over a bump or dip on one side, causing one side of the suspension to move while the other side does not. That's when the sway bar can start to affect the ride quality. A sway bar effectively raises the suspension's spring rate during cornering, so it would probably be slightly harsher over bumps, but not much.
I've thought about disconnecting my ITR 22mm rear bar and driving around just to see what difference in ride quality there is.
Don't really notice the difference most of the time, just some specific conditions.
And wile I can swap it between settings with just 2 bolts, it doesn't make enough of a difference that I bother (I am lazy though). I just run full stiff (which I want for on track use) all the time. Unless I'm loaning the car out, in which case I disconnect an endlink entirely to make the car understeer biased.
Then again, I'm also running 400/400 spring rates. Due to how ARBs work, a stiffer bar paired with weaker springs won't be as detrimental to ride quality as the same bar paired with stiffer springs.
no, not if you just drive normal down the street. if you enjoy cornering fast on the street and do auto-x/roadrace, then yes you should get it. if the car is simply a commuter, then it makes no sense to increase its handling ability (unless you just have money to spend).
My car is used to commute to school and back home. i put 400 miles a week on it, roughly. It might be a waste of money, but i love taking turns fast, so im willing to spend a little more for that neutral feeling.
hey what do you guys suggest to reinforce a 22mm rsb?
CT engineering bar and ASR bar are overpriced, is there any other option?
hey what do you guys suggest to reinforce a 22mm rsb?
CT engineering bar and ASR bar are overpriced, is there any other option?
FWIW, a bigger rear sway bar won't always make the car handle "better." If you're not autoxing or doing anything else with turns, don't even worry about upgrading. If you are, think about how your car handles now. Does it understeer too much? Would you like to have more lift-throttle oversteer? If so, then a bigger bar will do the trick. If you like how the car handles, leave it alone.
Example: My 99 Si had a 22mm bar and Tein basics. It was way too tail happy with the stiff coilovers + big rear bar. I took the bar completely off and ran my next autox with no bar. The change made the handling much more neutral. Lift-throttle oversteer was more gradual and the car was easier to control.
Example: My 99 Si had a 22mm bar and Tein basics. It was way too tail happy with the stiff coilovers + big rear bar. I took the bar completely off and ran my next autox with no bar. The change made the handling much more neutral. Lift-throttle oversteer was more gradual and the car was easier to control.
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