ECU Woes...
In short:
EM1
b16 block/b18 head w/
[I, H, E, IM, Fuel Rail, Cams, Cam gears, etc.]
I have two ECU's right now that are both useless.
1.) Crome chipped was purchased when original motor was in car and had issues. Sent back to Rywire who sent another and still issues (no start after fuel, revving to 5k, etc)
2.) Hondata s100 purchased when new motor was installed. ECU was purchased and tuned from Shawn at Church motors and shipped to Florida. Motor will surge (gain/lose power dramatically) up the power band and at 7k, the car dips violently downward and the car loses all power.
I was going to go get a tune from a shop that says they tune Hondata, but when I called they state that they only tune s300 and don't have the software for s100 chips!?! So, I am going to look for a new shop (hard to find), but just wondering if this was a fuel cut off and a freaked up map that was burned to the ecu or what.
Sorry if this is a bit scattered, just annoyed.
EM1
b16 block/b18 head w/
[I, H, E, IM, Fuel Rail, Cams, Cam gears, etc.]
I have two ECU's right now that are both useless.
1.) Crome chipped was purchased when original motor was in car and had issues. Sent back to Rywire who sent another and still issues (no start after fuel, revving to 5k, etc)
2.) Hondata s100 purchased when new motor was installed. ECU was purchased and tuned from Shawn at Church motors and shipped to Florida. Motor will surge (gain/lose power dramatically) up the power band and at 7k, the car dips violently downward and the car loses all power.
I was going to go get a tune from a shop that says they tune Hondata, but when I called they state that they only tune s300 and don't have the software for s100 chips!?! So, I am going to look for a new shop (hard to find), but just wondering if this was a fuel cut off and a freaked up map that was burned to the ecu or what.
Sorry if this is a bit scattered, just annoyed.
Where are you located? There are a number of good shops that tune in FL.
The second ecu sounds like it may just need a good base map to start from. Contact Mtber or 98vtec, I believe they are in Florida and may be able to help you remotely. If not I knew innovative motorworks(more locale to me) or CFT can help.
The second ecu sounds like it may just need a good base map to start from. Contact Mtber or 98vtec, I believe they are in Florida and may be able to help you remotely. If not I knew innovative motorworks(more locale to me) or CFT can help.
Thanks man. I'm in Jacksonville. Going to call a shop called Stage 6 tomorrow. Hopefully they can tune it, never thought it would be this difficult with Honda's most popular tuning software.
If you get an s300 or want to pay for an ectune license, let me know. I'm in tallahassee.
Called several times and left a message, doubtful on getting it tuned at Stage 6. So, I only have a Hondata s100 and need tuning locally, any other options? This sucks.
Hello AMG; this is Todd from Church Automotive Testing.
I am sorry to hear that you are having problems. There are a couple of things that I need to point out. When we send out a chip with an ECU, it is only loaded with a basemap. A basemap is designed to get the car up and running and allow you to drive the vehicle safely to a dyno to get tuned. Nothing more. It is a map from a car with mods similar to yours.The basemap is not designed to make loads of power or to be run full throttle on the street. We do several things to the basemap that will have the opposite effect. We add fuel and pull timing from the tune to make the car safer to drive and prevent engine damage. We will also put in a lower rev limit, 7,000 RPM on a B-series, for instance. This allows the customer to get the car to the dyno and have the engine tuned to it's full potential.
Hondata has a list of dealers on their website here:
http://www.hondata.com/dealers.html
You can also contact Hondata directly to get a tuner recommendation from them. If you are unable to find a tuner in your area, you can also take the car to a dyno and get a printout of your A/F at full throttle, as well as HP/Torque. We would be happy to make changes to your map based on those graphs that would be more tailored to your specific application. Contact us and please let us know how we can be of assistance. Thank you.
Todd-Church Automotive Testing.
I am sorry to hear that you are having problems. There are a couple of things that I need to point out. When we send out a chip with an ECU, it is only loaded with a basemap. A basemap is designed to get the car up and running and allow you to drive the vehicle safely to a dyno to get tuned. Nothing more. It is a map from a car with mods similar to yours.The basemap is not designed to make loads of power or to be run full throttle on the street. We do several things to the basemap that will have the opposite effect. We add fuel and pull timing from the tune to make the car safer to drive and prevent engine damage. We will also put in a lower rev limit, 7,000 RPM on a B-series, for instance. This allows the customer to get the car to the dyno and have the engine tuned to it's full potential.
Hondata has a list of dealers on their website here:
http://www.hondata.com/dealers.html
You can also contact Hondata directly to get a tuner recommendation from them. If you are unable to find a tuner in your area, you can also take the car to a dyno and get a printout of your A/F at full throttle, as well as HP/Torque. We would be happy to make changes to your map based on those graphs that would be more tailored to your specific application. Contact us and please let us know how we can be of assistance. Thank you.
Todd-Church Automotive Testing.
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I would check fuel pressure, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump etc before solely focusing on the ECU.
The ECU controls the inputs of fuel and spark to da motor; the old saying "garbage in, garbage out" will hold frustratingly true.
The ECU controls the inputs of fuel and spark to da motor; the old saying "garbage in, garbage out" will hold frustratingly true.
Hey AMG, I'M in Jax as well. Have you tryed calling Speed Fab in OP, Tachton ,or maybe Velocity Trends, but Velocity is a bit on the pricey side.
Speed Fabs # 298-0005
Tachyon # 367-0390
Velocity # 997-9903
I hope this info can help you out, Good Luck.
Speed Fabs # 298-0005
Tachyon # 367-0390
Velocity # 997-9903
I hope this info can help you out, Good Luck.
Hello AMG; this is Todd from Church Automotive Testing.
I am sorry to hear that you are having problems. There are a couple of things that I need to point out. When we send out a chip with an ECU, it is only loaded with a basemap. A basemap is designed to get the car up and running and allow you to drive the vehicle safely to a dyno to get tuned. Nothing more. It is a map from a car with mods similar to yours.The basemap is not designed to make loads of power or to be run full throttle on the street. We do several things to the basemap that will have the opposite effect. We add fuel and pull timing from the tune to make the car safer to drive and prevent engine damage. We will also put in a lower rev limit, 7,000 RPM on a B-series, for instance. This allows the customer to get the car to the dyno and have the engine tuned to it's full potential.
Hondata has a list of dealers on their website here:
http://www.hondata.com/dealers.html
You can also contact Hondata directly to get a tuner recommendation from them. If you are unable to find a tuner in your area, you can also take the car to a dyno and get a printout of your A/F at full throttle, as well as HP/Torque. We would be happy to make changes to your map based on those graphs that would be more tailored to your specific application. Contact us and please let us know how we can be of assistance. Thank you.
Todd-Church Automotive Testing.
I am sorry to hear that you are having problems. There are a couple of things that I need to point out. When we send out a chip with an ECU, it is only loaded with a basemap. A basemap is designed to get the car up and running and allow you to drive the vehicle safely to a dyno to get tuned. Nothing more. It is a map from a car with mods similar to yours.The basemap is not designed to make loads of power or to be run full throttle on the street. We do several things to the basemap that will have the opposite effect. We add fuel and pull timing from the tune to make the car safer to drive and prevent engine damage. We will also put in a lower rev limit, 7,000 RPM on a B-series, for instance. This allows the customer to get the car to the dyno and have the engine tuned to it's full potential.
Hondata has a list of dealers on their website here:
http://www.hondata.com/dealers.html
You can also contact Hondata directly to get a tuner recommendation from them. If you are unable to find a tuner in your area, you can also take the car to a dyno and get a printout of your A/F at full throttle, as well as HP/Torque. We would be happy to make changes to your map based on those graphs that would be more tailored to your specific application. Contact us and please let us know how we can be of assistance. Thank you.
Todd-Church Automotive Testing.
No pun intended as you guys have been great and sh*t happens. lol Just wouldn't think it would be this hard to find a shop to tune the damn thing! Wish you guys were local!!
Originally Posted by msb1510
Hey AMG, I'M in Jax as well. Have you tryed calling Speed Fab in OP, Tachton ,or maybe Velocity Trends, but Velocity is a bit on the pricey side.
Speed Fabs # 298-0005
Tachyon # 367-0390
Velocity # 997-9903
I hope this info can help you out, Good Luck.
Speed Fabs # 298-0005
Tachyon # 367-0390
Velocity # 997-9903
I hope this info can help you out, Good Luck.
Titan is still here but they are in Orlando....there's also CFT (central Florida turbo)...both reputable shops, both in Orlando......not sure if that works for you or not.
Ninja Edit: Maybe contact DonF....hes located in Jax, he may have some recommendations.
Ninja Edit: Maybe contact DonF....hes located in Jax, he may have some recommendations.
Wow, if Velocity couldn't do it, you really should try Speed Fab, they've been around longer than Stage 6. If all else fails, GET A TOYOTA! No really, keep trying Stage 6. Their customer service is bad, as far as answering the phone gos, but they really do know their **** when it comes to tuning. Once again, Good Luck.
Like I said, some times, with Stage 6, it is best to just stop buy their shop. I do not know their address but here are some basic directions. They are about 1/4 mile north of University Blvd. on Phillips Hwy. They are on the rite. Look for a Wheel Shop, go behind it, their all the way in the back.
Like I said, some times, with Stage 6, it is best to just stop buy their shop. I do not know their address but here are some basic directions. They are about 1/4 mile north of University Blvd. on Phillips Hwy. They are on the rite. Look for a Wheel Shop, go behind it, their all the way in the back.
Last edited by msb1510; Apr 22, 2009 at 05:34 PM.
IMO it would be worth the drive... http://www.phearable.net/tuningsolutions.html (tampa ~3 hours)
But he lists S100 as an option, and you can always use the Crome ECU and have him install eCtune instead. (as simple as burning the chip again)
Again IMO, eCtune would be way better than the S100 or Crome setup.
But he lists S100 as an option, and you can always use the Crome ECU and have him install eCtune instead. (as simple as burning the chip again)
Again IMO, eCtune would be way better than the S100 or Crome setup.
So, I just spoke with Mase who is a SUPER nice guy by the way. He said he hadn't tuned s100 software in a long time, but would order a burner and tune the car! He said he should have it by Wednesday, so I can't wait!
BTW, my buddy finally did a valve adjustment due to a more than normal ticking noise and found the valves to be very loose. Although the car sounds 10000 times better and runs much better, both ecu's decided to fully crap out now:
The crome will run the car, but the idle fluctuates erratically and stalls 8/10 times at a stop. It threw a cell one of the times we had it in there for the IACV.
Then we put the s100 back in and the car dumps so much fuel that the gas gauge drops significantly when giving gas and stalls when trying to accelerate. This ecu is not drivable at the moment.
My only question is "How the F do both give out now that the car is adjusted properly?"
BTW, my buddy finally did a valve adjustment due to a more than normal ticking noise and found the valves to be very loose. Although the car sounds 10000 times better and runs much better, both ecu's decided to fully crap out now:
The crome will run the car, but the idle fluctuates erratically and stalls 8/10 times at a stop. It threw a cell one of the times we had it in there for the IACV.
Then we put the s100 back in and the car dumps so much fuel that the gas gauge drops significantly when giving gas and stalls when trying to accelerate. This ecu is not drivable at the moment.
My only question is "How the F do both give out now that the car is adjusted properly?"
Bumping this up because I haven't been able to get back in touch with Mase. I've called several times and left messages, but got no response. Hopefully he calls me back within the next day or so, but if not, I'm stuck with a car that barely runs and 350$ waiting for someone who will tune my car. :-(
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?





