looking for something for my girl's integra. i do not like to be a cheapo, but i do like to buy whatever is "the best bang for the buck" kind of things. this is my first time buying car audio stuff (besides a deck). willing to spending 300-500.

my idea was to buy a single 12inch JL w3 and a prefab box. Not sure on what amp though. I was thinking phoenix gold possibly?

i'm looking for something that will sound clean and give a bit of bass. nothing to rattle the trunk or be heard down the street. recommendations with links would be great!

 

oh yeah, the deck is a alpine cde-9881. i dont think i need anything over 500watts.

 

to be honest any amp will do just make sure to cheak the rms of the sub and the rms of the amp so you end up blowing the sub you can get a sony amp at a decent price without going overbored ive ownd all kinds of amps and havent noticd a diff between brands but iff you got the money get an alpine amp and a alpine sub if your not looking for mad beat the a single 10 will do 500 watts itl give a nice clean sound with out the crazy rattle

 

ok let me say this if you are going for 12" jl wv-v3 go with the 2ohm model if you arent lookin to beat down the block any amp will do. Since the RMS on that sub is 500 watts i would get an amp that pushes anywhere from 750 to 1000. If you are trying to bass really hard make sure you get a class d mono block amp with a mosfet power supply. That will do all the justice rite there. The Rockford Fosgate Punch Power series amps are ridiculous I have one in my civic runnin two kicker comps with a sealed box hittin 146.7 db spl.

 

i got a question for yousince you seem to know more about sounds then me lol i got 2 subs wired together i have to bridge them combind they are 600 rms 1000 watts each sub what size amp do you recomend to get the most outa the subs

 

OK you have two 12 run in series together there are alot of things that could vary the sound of your subs like what kind of box you have how many ohms the subs are your eq setting and how close to their max power are you willing to go. but to answer your question i would put 1200 to 1400 watts total power and crank the gain 3/4 to full and the frequency all the way down so no words flow through the speakers. If they are good speakers you will not have any issues. I would still bridge the subs you get more thump for your buck. Make sure your amp is in a well ventilated area thus for cooling purposes my friend almost caught his dakota on fire. If you have any other questions pm me its easier

 

here are some sites with some decent amps

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...val+V8001.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...RS-D2200T.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...C1500.1D-.html (nasty)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...BXi+1210D.html the best one ive found for you

 

I almost wanted to kill myself when i read all these post! Ok you just can throw amps on subs and turn gains to certain settings!! First of all, nice choice for a daily subs, 12w3's are sweet, and the advice of just buying a 2ohm subs and putting it on any amp is DUMB! You have to choose a sub and amp, then you choose your subs coils by your amp. If you choose a class d amp, and the amp is 2ohm stable (very common) then you will want a dual 4ohm subwoofer, or a Single 2ohm sub. Then once the amp and sub is installed, sounds like you will need assistance on wiring the sub, you set your crossover to LP (low pass) about 80hrz or lower, that is something you can give advice about and is pretty much common across the board ( for the most part), then with your HU set to about 80% or about the level where it is the loudest without distortion, you slowly crank the gain up until you either have it all the way up, or have hit a point of distortion, if you do reach a disortion ( sub popping, sub bottoming out, bad sound) then turn the gain down slightly until its gone. AND PLEASE, don't have the bass on your hu turned all the way up! honestly i leave my bass level on 0, for a cleaner signal.

 

okay, i ended up picking up a 12w3v2 with a JBL BP300.1 amp from my friend for 175. haha. he's a good guy and doesn't bump his system too hard, so i found it fair to buy.

anyways, i'm looking for a wiring kit now (ANY SUGGESTIONS?) and will be underway to install my first system in the next couple days. LOL! i'll try to figure out what to set the LP and HU at afterwards.

if you guys think i should get a better amp, let me know of any good ones on the market right now.

anyone know where i can order carpetting for the box?

 

audios what is used to for a living why would you buy a 2ohm amp with a 4 ohm sub. It will not allow you to use full potential of the amp thats retarted.

 

how do you know he purchased a 4ohm woofer? btw w3v2's only come in DVC, so it would be a dual 4ohm, dual 2ohm, or dual 6ohm sub. Also to OP, the jbl bp 300.1 is a good choice for matching the rms power for that sub, one very good thing about that line of JBL amplifiers is that they made them with a regulated power supply between 1-2 ohms, so whether your running a 1 ohm -2ohm load it will produce 300w rms, though i know the guy is your friend and all, and hey maybe he paid retail and you both felt the amp was worth it, but 175? if i paid that for that amp i would feel molested! i sold my jbl bp 1200.1 for 200 and that was about 6-7 years ago, at one time on usaci's forums you could get 1200.1's like hotcakes for 200 all day long, too bad they have pretty much deminished, finding one now would be a lucky find.

 

oh wait, you got the amp and sub for 175? or just the amp for 175?

 

i got both the sub and the amp for 175. i'm not crazy enough to buy a used amp for 175. haha.

i took the sub out of the box to see if it was 2ohm or a 4ohm...


a female positive wire had come loose off of the top male connector, so i just put it back on. i'm assuming that's how DVC's work. lol


so now, should i continue to use this JBL bp300.1 or should i get a different amp? obviously this will work, but as always, i dont like to limit myself. hehe

 

Yee if you decide to sell that amp I will buy it off you!!

 

in terms of head units, I think you should go with a mid-priced Alpine unit. nice OLED displays and iPod connection/Bluetooth is sick!

 

yea man, dual 4ohm, that is perfect! can't see all the wiring but certainly appears to be wired in parrallel for a 2ohm load, thats perfect, looks to me like you got a deal! yea keep that amp man!

 

my alpine is okay for right now. probably get a new one next year or something.

any good wiring kits available?

 

true, I didn't know you already had one. get a Scoche wiring kit from Crutchfield.

 

haha. yeah.

does it matter what size fuse i get for the kit i buy?

i'm assuming i should get a 10gauge or 8gauge kit.

 

i would get a 8 gauge kit for sure, if purchasing a kit, more than likely its gonna have a 60 amp fuse included and all necessary wiring will be there, also walmart has those scoshe kits too, there like 20-25 bucks, yea i'm hoping my alpine holds out, i have a cda-9805 in my integra and a 9807 in my accord, i have the xm on my 9807 but my 9805 has been getting pile drived by my spl systems in various cars since 03, now its starting to show signs of dying but i only paid 220 for it new and that was right about 6 years ago, its a trooper!

 

i'm thinking of stopping by fry's or best buy later.

probably but a rockford fosgate wiring kit if i can't find anything else good. i'll try to stick to an agu fuse kit or anl fuse kit

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1172276905213


can someone tell me what the remote wire is for?

 

ANL is a little excessive if you ask me.. i don't even know if they make an ANL small enough for your application, my ANL fuses i have are 150a, 200a, 250a, you definately need a big MAXI fuse or better yet a AGU, rockford 8 gauge kits run about 50 bucks a kit.. Remote wire is typically blue in 99% of applications, it runs from the Remote lead on the back of your head unit to the Remote terminal on your amp, so when you turn your head unit on it sends a 12vdc signal to the amp telling the amp to come on as well.

 

ohhh i see. i see. thanks for all the info