I am buying a kit from my friend. It is a NOS dry kit and includes:
Bottle
Gauge
lines
fittings
solenoids
arming switch & micro switch
60 shot jet/pill
heater & wiring
purge valve and switch
manual

I know as of right now I have to buy:
NO2 gauge for in car
Exhaust gas temp gauge
A-Pillar pod
2 step colder plugs
Bottle bracket(he doesn't have it)
Purge line(he says its kinked)

I was told to go with Auto-Meter gauges, and either Iridium or Laser platinum plugs.

Anything else??? How do I retard the timing on my 93 Lude VTEC? Doesn't the ECU put it back to stock if it's retarded. What is the suggested amount? 1 degree for 60 shot, and 2 for 75 shot? Should I buy some extra solenoids to have on hand as well as some extra plugs too??? Someone also suggested using Octane booster when I plan on spraying. Any suggestions for Brand?

Thanks in advance for your help...I can't wait to spray!!!

 

Personally i would go with NGK 7's anything hotter than that aint all that safe or reccomended to run on bottle... the hotter the plug the higher the risk... you want to run a cold plug.. also if you are buying a used kit, you want to make sure the solenoids are still functioning, and there should actually be two jets, one for the nitrous and one for the fuel T... (60 shot should be about a # 34 or 36 nitrous jet, and you should have a #42 in the fuel T)... anyhow, on a 60 shot i would reccomend maybe beefing up your ignition (i'm running a crane hi-6 w/ a fireball coil).. With the ignition system you can automatically retard the timing when you spray and run at normal timing off bottle.. anyhow, you should be able to spray as much as 70-80 without beefing up your fuel, or building the motor.. (then again how many miles does your motor have on it? might not wanna push past 60shot) anyhow.. i have been running spray on my car since i bought it (5th gen prelude), and i am now taking it off to go boost for a change of pace.. if you need any help or have any more questions let me know..

 

his kit is a dry kit, there is no fuel solonoid/jets, its taking car by the fuel injectors and o2 sensor. included in the kit should be a n20- pressure regulator, it bumps up your fuel pressure only while spraying. 1-step colder should be fine, i actually ran 70 shot w/no timing retard and stock plugs. then i had 1 step colder and a few degrees advance w/70 shot. when mounting the jet, make sure you are a minaum of 8" away from the tb, i actually went about 12-14 inches, it gives it time to cool the intake charge and to mix better.

if you wanted to retard timing, you turn the dist. toward the header, your car is obd I it doesnt fix timing like obd II does.

i think the dry pills are 32=50 shot and 35=70 shot but ill have to look it up.

i'd get an a/f gage, best investment you dont want to run lean, the only n2o gage you need would be a bottle pressure gage so you dont heat it too much and you know when its going empty

btw-how much are you paying for the kit?


[Modified by 93ludevtec, 5:13 AM 8/16/2002]


[Modified by 93ludevtec, 5:14 AM 8/16/2002]

 

I had my nozzle about 3-4 inches from the TB, with the nozzle pointing right into the intake manifold thru the TB. I find that it hits harder when it shoots directly into the intake manifold that way. And I believe the pressure itself will shoot enough nitrous all the way to the far end of the intake manifold, providing a more equal distribution. But that's just MY theory.

Your intake temps are NOT going to be that hot with an N/A setup, probably a few degrees above ambient with a CAI (or engine temp with an underhood filter) There's no need to plumb it that far away, as the nitrous may puddle in the intake tube because of the length it has to travel. Maybe with a turbo setup, you might want to plumb it a bit further in the intake pipe to help cool down the temps. But I see no point with an N/A application. My 0.02.

 

Everything for $325...I think it's all new stuff too. It's a friend of mine that just has no desire for straight line speed. He's an Auto-X junky!!!

 

well i used to have it like 2 in. away from the tb, then i read what i said in a honda nitrous builders book, and i tried it and i didn't really feel a difference in the power but i figured if i dont feel the difference then i should try and save my engine and listen to the people that have done the reasearch.

btw- i also had the nozzle pointed towards the tb in both app.

 

I had mine close to the throttle body as well, and even though they say its risky, i found that it kicks in harder the closer to the throttle body you place it... Anyhow, 93ludevtec, i understand that in a dry single fogger system there are no fuel solenoids, but i assure you that there are two jets in every dry singler fogger system... I ran a single fogger dry system and there are two jets, have you looked inside your fuel T lately?? if you are running a single fogger system, and you look in the fuel T you will find another jet... (if you read the instructions you will find what i am talking about).. There are two jets in every single fogger system..one for the nitrous which controls the amount of nitrous your car gets, (goes inside the blue flare jet which comes with the kit), and then there is one in the fuel T which is mounted on your vacuum lines.. those vacuum lines go connected to the Blue canister looking thing that came with your NOS kit... normally the kit comes with a .42 jet (already in the fuel T) which should suffice up to a 75 shot. You change the jet in the fuel T depending on how much nitrous you are going to run.. the amount of nitrous you run should always be proportional to how much fuel you give the system, even in a single fogger dry set-up.. so when you are considering a 60 shot of NOS you have to take into consideration both what jet you place in the flare jet, as well the jet placed in the fuel T... What most people dont know is that when you run out to buy a bigger nitrous jet (and you dont change the jet in the fuel T depending on what shot you are spraying) you end up giving your car way to much nitrous and not enough fuel therefore turning your car into the worlds heaviest paper weight.... i would reccomend running a .34 for nitrous and a .42 in your feul T which is the equivalent of running about a 60 shot.. dont take my word for it, call NOS and i am sure they will tell you the same... or you can try running your single fogger with out a jet in your fuel T to see what happens.. heh heh heh.. not a pretty site.



[Modified by LordVtec, 12:50 PM 8/16/2002]

 

NirVTEC,

Did you get Jason's NOS kit so you can take on bigger Rustangs?

Did you race that tech?

 

hey lordvtec, sorry i should have read your post better, i was tired. ya i know what you are talking about in the blue thing,its just been a min sincei messed w/it.

i designed and used my own kit, much cheaper that way, i was just trying to remember off my friends install

btw- if you didnt put a jet wouldn't that make you run rich as hell since no jet is like a really big jet

 

- the answer is no.. the jet regulates the amount of vacuum press. that is fed thrrough the blue canister.. inside that canister is a spring that is activated by the vacuum pressure created by the jet in the fuel T... without the jet there is no vacuum press, no vacuum press. renders the blue canister completely useless, which then means you will get more nitrous than you will fuel in the system.. i am sure we all know what happens next.... Two words: KA Boom.


[Modified by LordVtec, 3:23 PM 8/16/2002]

 

actually I would only recommend a 50shot on a dry setup. If you go bigger upgrade to a wet system. a/f guage is good when ya juice it. I have 3steps colder plugs.

If your just spraying 50 you don't need anything, I have been doing this forever, aimed straight into the TB bout 6" away from it. If you wanna go bigger get and fpr at least and a wet system.

 

"NirVTEC,
Did you get Jason's NOS kit so you can take on bigger Rustangs?

Did you race that tech?"

Yes & NO!!!
hahaha...what are you doing here???

 

I've run as high as an 80 shot on my prelude with stock fuel... any thing passed that i would reccomend upgrading to a direct port wet nitrous system.. I personally had an 80 shot and ran the nozzle 4-6 inches away from the throttle body, ran stock fuel system, just upgraded the ignition system (crane hi 6 w/ coil), used ngk 7's, and had all the bolt on's... ran like a champ w/ no problems... i also had the A/F ratio gauge, and an N20 press. If done right there is no reason why you cant run as high as an 80 shot using a single fogger on an h22...

 

The guy I am buying the kit from said an Exhaust Gas temp gauge would be a better investment than an A/F gauge...How does it work, hotter exhaust means you're running leaner, or the other way around???
Should I just buy both???

 

To be perfectly honest with you the Exhaust Temp is more accurate than the A/F Ratio guage in the sense that when the Exhaust temp rises you know its time to let off the nitrous.. whereas the A/F ratio guage will let you know when the car is leaning out, but there is the chance that by the time the O2 sensor sends the signal to the guage that the car is running dangerously lean, it is too late to let off the juice... on that same note i ran an A/F ratio guage and have never had a problem.. if you install the kit properly, and stay on top of maintainence as well as things like your ignition and fuel you wont have a problem either..

 

By the way (I couldn't stop myself)

NO2 = Nitrogen Dioxide, pollution gas

N20 = Nitrous Oxide, laughing gas, race use

 

I was tempted to do the same.. and just decided to let it go.. I figured he would see the correction in my posts and remember for future reference..heh heh heh.. but thanks anyhow..


[Modified by LordVtec, 12:27 AM 8/17/2002]

 

Haha I figured...I was just too tempted to post when I read the "NO2 Newbie"...I'm like hehe no ****!

<--- wishes he had some nawwwwwssss so he was faster

 

Hell i am impressed you knew what NO2 was... lol.. i had no clue what it was, i just knew it wasnt the happy gas... lol... good looking out..

 

Sorry, my elements are off...{I'm 10 yrs out of school}{Science was never a strong point, I'm a Finance Mgr.}{3 yrs of typing it as NO2, and no one ever corrected me before}{Thanks!!!}
I figured it was 1 part Nitrogen, and you need 2 parts oxygen to make it an OXIDE.
So Nitrous Oxide is 2 parts Nitrogen, and 1 part Oxygen?
I stand corrected, N2O!!! Out of curiousity, what is Dioxide used for?
Any worthwhile gains to be had by using medical grade N20? I was going to rob my local dentist of his stash to refill my 10#'er...
It's official though, I have a BIG BLUE BOTTLE sitting in my apartment right now!!! I was freaking out last night at the Drag strip watching these guys blast a 10' high purge cloud into the air before they ran...I can't wait to SPRAY!!!

 

So is it even worth it to buy an A/F gauge if I have the EG temp gauge for anything other than having a cool gauge with flashing lights?

Does the NOS warmer have a thermostat, or will I have to turn it on and off?

 

The A/F Ratio will work just the same as the exhaust temp guage so there really is no reason for it unless you wanna add that extra guage for show... other than that, if you already have the exhaust temp guage you dont really need the other... The bottle warmer wont have a thermostat, but you can watch your nitrous pressure gauge.. you heat the bottle till the pressure in the bottle is at about 900psi.. Enjoy the nitrous dude!!

 

900 thats all you went to? i think its at around 800 normal temp full bottle. i used to heat mine to 1100 psi, but thats me.

 

900 psi is what is reccomended by NOS which is why i reccomended 900 psi... Living in miami however, i never had any use for a bottle warmer.. instead my trunk acted as my factory installed bottle warmer where i have seen the bottle pressure go as high as 1200 psi.. no biggie.