My First build (almost done i want opinions)
Hi everyone...
Im About to finish my first build. Im looking for some opinions recomendations and the like.
Well Here it goes
Engine description
BLOCK
• 84MM darton sleeved B16
• JE 8:1 Compression Pistons
• Eagle H-Beam rods
• JE ProSeal rings
• Acl main bearings
• Cleivite Rod Bearings
• Type R Water/Oil Pumps
• Honda Factory N-1 light weight crank pulley
• Oil catch can
HEAD
• OBD-1 B16 Head
• JDM Civic Type R Cams (B16B)
• Vision Motorworks adjustable cam gears
• USDM Integra Type R Springs (B18C5)
• Skunk 2 Titanium Retainers
• Edelbrock Victor-X Manifold (port matched to head)
• Edelbrock 65mm Throttle Body
• Precision 880cc injectors
• Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold
Turbo Kit
• Custom Ramhorn Manifold
• Holset HX35W (12cm^2 Exhaust)
• Turbonetics Evolution wastegate
• Greddy type RS blow-off-valve
• Treadstone TR10 intercooler (666HP rated)
• Custom 2.5" downpipe
• Treadstone 2.5" Polished aluminum pipe kit
• Treadstone silicone and T-bolts
Transmission
• JDM S1 transmission
• M-Factory LSD
• ACT 6-Puck clutch
• Fidanza 9.75lb flywheel
• 400hp axles
-OBD-1 Converted with complete Rywire Harness
-Pherable.net Chipped and Socketed P-28 ECU (Tuning On Crome Right now S300 W/Boost soon)
-Walbro 255 lph in-tank fuel pump
-Adjustable fuel pressure regulator with wet gauge
I think thats all of it.
I was also wondering about the exhaust. i was thinking 2.5 in all the way back no cat or muffler.
Let me know what u all think.
Eddie
Im About to finish my first build. Im looking for some opinions recomendations and the like.
Well Here it goes
Engine description
BLOCK
• 84MM darton sleeved B16
• JE 8:1 Compression Pistons
• Eagle H-Beam rods
• JE ProSeal rings
• Acl main bearings
• Cleivite Rod Bearings
• Type R Water/Oil Pumps
• Honda Factory N-1 light weight crank pulley
• Oil catch can
HEAD
• OBD-1 B16 Head
• JDM Civic Type R Cams (B16B)
• Vision Motorworks adjustable cam gears
• USDM Integra Type R Springs (B18C5)
• Skunk 2 Titanium Retainers
• Edelbrock Victor-X Manifold (port matched to head)
• Edelbrock 65mm Throttle Body
• Precision 880cc injectors
• Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold
Turbo Kit
• Custom Ramhorn Manifold
• Holset HX35W (12cm^2 Exhaust)
• Turbonetics Evolution wastegate
• Greddy type RS blow-off-valve
• Treadstone TR10 intercooler (666HP rated)
• Custom 2.5" downpipe
• Treadstone 2.5" Polished aluminum pipe kit
• Treadstone silicone and T-bolts
Transmission
• JDM S1 transmission
• M-Factory LSD
• ACT 6-Puck clutch
• Fidanza 9.75lb flywheel
• 400hp axles
-OBD-1 Converted with complete Rywire Harness
-Pherable.net Chipped and Socketed P-28 ECU (Tuning On Crome Right now S300 W/Boost soon)
-Walbro 255 lph in-tank fuel pump
-Adjustable fuel pressure regulator with wet gauge
I think thats all of it.
I was also wondering about the exhaust. i was thinking 2.5 in all the way back no cat or muffler.
Let me know what u all think.
Eddie
i would go 3'' for the most power output 2.5'' will hold you back and cams are good but i hear sk2 pro1's do verry well on boosted aplications the rest looks solid i have some pro1's lmk if your interested. gl.
Going from 2.5 to 3 inch will not do a whole heck of a lot, unless you're pushing atleast 400. I seen a graph once where they did 2.5 and 3inch of exact same car and the gain was only 4 HP. For the cost, I don't know if it's really worth it, but to each their own I suppose. I say try the 2.5inch and see if you have problems. If you're shooting for 400 WHP, my guess is you'll be fine.
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Also you dont need the vacuum manifold with the victor x intake manifold. It has several spots to put fittings on it....rings will come with the pistons.....stock,ati,or fluid damper. No light weight solid crap unless you like breaking oil pumps and wiping out bearings...if you still have to do an exhaust , i would stick with a 3in, you know youll want more power later....you dont need adjustable cam gears unless the head or block have been severely milled, you also dont need the throttle body, the aluminum ones sometimes tend to have a sticking issue.....if youre going to mess with the valve train then you might as well go with tuner1s, pro 1s will make more power, but are slightly harder on the valve train...if you dont have the precision 880s already, I have a BNIB set for sale, pm if interested...
Last edited by srmofo; Apr 19, 2009 at 08:21 PM.
For sure go with 3" from the turbo back. I'd reconsider the 8:1 pistons, your off boost response is gonna suuuuuck with them. I'd go with stock axles, i'd rather break an axle than a tranny, keeping them stock is a nice safe easy to replace fail point
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From: mashin down the freeway, CA, USA
looks like a nice setup. i agree ditch the crank pulley. what size fuel lines are you running? have you replaced your fuel filter? what fpr are you running?
The setup is pretty good overall. I would suggest getting a 3" exhaust since you're already spending a lot of money. You may as well get a less restrictive exhaust. This will allow you to make more power safely and have a better powerband. For the extra few hundred bucks, you could stand to pick up an extra 50-75whp plus a gain of 1k rpm in spool...it's totally worth the upgrade
e-cutouts are nice if you daily the car and take it to the track quite often.
id just use stock axles. your not gonna break them up until around 600-700 wheel if you know how to preload correctly. tranny shouldnt break either.
3" exhaust will make all that much of difference. very noticeable.
and if it were me i would use tial products for the wastegate and bov.
also i would have gone with 10:1 pistons.
id just use stock axles. your not gonna break them up until around 600-700 wheel if you know how to preload correctly. tranny shouldnt break either.
3" exhaust will make all that much of difference. very noticeable.
and if it were me i would use tial products for the wastegate and bov.
also i would have gone with 10:1 pistons.
Another problem to deal with if an issue should arise. I have a B16 for a DD and I will be keeping a 2.5" exhaust with 9.9:1 pistons. I'll still have great response for the turbo, but I'm not going for crazy whp either (400 hp is my goal). It'll still be responsive when I'm not in boost too.
Ok...
All the stuff above i have already. Things im gona change. The n1 pully will go and ill get a fluidamper. Im also gona get a hondata intake gasket. I forgot to add that i have a aem fuel rail, as far as lines i think there all stock. When i start my 2.0 build ill upgrade with a second walbro and bigger lines but for now i think they will do. Also wondering about traction issues any recomendations for a crx as far as traction/sway bars tires and im thinking about a roll cage sience ive already got sparcos and 4pt harnesses. Let me get all ur ideas on this.
All the stuff above i have already. Things im gona change. The n1 pully will go and ill get a fluidamper. Im also gona get a hondata intake gasket. I forgot to add that i have a aem fuel rail, as far as lines i think there all stock. When i start my 2.0 build ill upgrade with a second walbro and bigger lines but for now i think they will do. Also wondering about traction issues any recomendations for a crx as far as traction/sway bars tires and im thinking about a roll cage sience ive already got sparcos and 4pt harnesses. Let me get all ur ideas on this.
What is your power goal? That is the first thing to consider since that could really eliminate many of your options here. K.I.S.S.
I highly doubt you'll be needing to upgrade the fuel lines and pump, but I coulbe be wrong depending on your power goal.
I highly doubt you'll be needing to upgrade the fuel lines and pump, but I coulbe be wrong depending on your power goal.
my goal is around 450 or so. I was at about 250 before i blew her up and had traction issues thats why im asking about suspension.







ditch the pulley, you motor will thank you.
