I've been referred to energy suspension by many people for replacing OEM bushings. However after some discussions on honda_tech, I've received some negative feedback about enrgy suspension. So I'm looking for experiences with people using energy suspension. Positive and negative. Performance, durability, rips, tears, squeaks, etc...

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/how-quick-easy-civic-integra-trailing-arm-bushing-replacement-also-es-poly-vs-mugen-1589298/

https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/my-experiences-poly-bushings-info-post-1563815/

 

I have a gsr that i DD 6 months out of the year and I go to about 3 HPDE per year. This will be my 3rd year on energy suspension bushings. They do squeak alot now, and the ride is extreamly harsh, but IMO is worth it. I have alot of other supporting suspension mods, if you don't i wouldn't recomend them, and if you drive in the snow at all. It is not the best for a DD but to me is like a good set of tires, i will replace when they wear out. Just be sure to inspect good and more frequently as time goes on. The only one i wouldn't replace would be the rear trailing arm, leave that alone. Alot of people suggest hardrace hard rubber bushing also, they are somewhere between stock and poly. I don't understand the hate on these. Also there was a good write up in the auto-x fourm about someone who had them in his DD for 6 years, they started to deform a little. But like i said, it's a wear item and you must plan on replacing them at some point.

 

Yes, bushings are wear items and will always have to be replaced at some point.

However if bushing life is what you're concerned about (and some people are, including myself), the simple fact is that rubber bushings WILL outlast polyurethane bushings.

I'm still on the original 15-yr old rubber bushings, and while they are in need of replacement, they are not nearly as deteriorated as my polyurethane shifter bushings were after only 5 years of use.

I do have ES greasable swaybar bushings for my ITR swaybar, but when those bite the dust I plan on switching those to OE ITR swaybar bushings, also.

 

I vote YES on them!!!! I haev the mount inserts. Get them!!


The shifter bushings lick nuts.

 

why do people not read the directions on the es bushing?......It states they must be lubed when they get dry......I use spray on white lithem grease....works great. If you do not lube them, they will wear out quicker.

 

How often have you found yourself respraying them? I'm sure it depends on how you use the car but j/w in general.

 

When finished installing the bushings at a cornner u should jack the knuckle up with a jack (with all bolts loose) untill the car lifts up off the jack stand (this is static ride hight) and then tighten all bolts. If u just let the knuckle sagg then tighten the bolts when u lower the car the bushings will twist and stay twisted this will shorten the life of any bushing!

 

This process only applies to rubber bushings where the inner sleeve is bonded to the rubber.

Poly bushings they do not twist as the suspension moves. The inner sleeve simply rolls inside the poly. This is the reason they need lube, squeak, and why they wear out quicker than rubber...

BTW: I just found out today that the jack-stand method does not work as well as we thought in the front. Someone I was pm'ing with told me he tried to set his ride height via this method. The car ended up being over an inch lower than expected in the front once the car was back on the ground. He told me it seems to work alright in the rear, but still not perfect.

Moral: It's best to tighten & torque suspension bolts with the car on the ground.

I understand this is not possible for every bolt...

 

Ramps. 4 of them.

 

This is because the jackstand is placed closer to the LCA's pivot point than the wheel is located, usually almost directly under the shock fork bolt. This effectively shortens the wheel motion ratio (making the ratio nearly 1:1), thereby putting less load on the spring. Since the tire is farther out, it puts more load on the spring, which compresses the spring more.

Placing a jack under the LCA to load the suspension gets it close enough for resetting bushings, since it's impractical to tighten the bolts with the car on the ground, but as that guy found out it's not the actual ride height and ride height should not be adjusted with this method.

 

I did not lube my shifter bushings, since those bushings do not move.

Any bushing that requires lubrication to keep it from wearing out when it doesn't even more nor is a load-bearing bushing is crap IMHO.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. But there's some differences of opinion on here. I'm going to be installing numerous bushings by Energy suspension. (Red) Sway bar end links, sway bar mount bushings and control arm-upper and lower bushings, hopefully by this Tuesday. (parts on backorder) Im going to be daily driving the car and try to make 3 autocross events or more. I'll try to update the thread after each event to see how they handle the various loads after one season of racing and driving.

 

much fail in this post...........

 

You fail, sir. ES's instructions for the shifter bushings make NO mention of lubrication of any kind. I don't even think the shifter bushing kit came with any of their lube stuff.

http://www.energysuspension.com/pdf_instruc/17161.PDF

In my opinion, OEM shifter bushings are FAR superior to Energy Suspension crap.

 

pic suspension makes the bushings in rubber like your oem but 40% stiffer than stock. kinda gives you a second option. Ive had no personal experience but hear alot of good things at my shop

 

PIC > ES

ES = FAIL

/Thread bot

 

Well it seems like most people hate ES. But in rebellion; here goes nothing...

 

plastic baggies are for???

 

probably to keep the poly lube from getting everywhere. that **** is a pain to wash off no matter what you use.

 

OP, did you replace the bushings yourself?

 

Yeah, the bags are to keep the lube off my carpet. That lube is like a mix of man juice and super glue... And yes I did the bushings myself. But I had the strut bushing and the front most bushing pressed out at a local shop. He charged me $50 to do all 4.

Here's how they look installed.

Passenger Side:



Driver Side:

 

Actually, I think the front ARB bushings will be fine in poly. Mine are currently half a stock bushing (I cut it) and a 3/4" thick stack of washers (1/2" on other side, who needs adjustable endlinks to remove preload?), and they have been holding up fine for 2 years.

I'd wager good money that the rest are doomed to a short life though.

 

ES bushings are sorry.... i'm waiting for the 1st of May for HARDRACE to come out with 96-00 usdm civic kit..

hardrace > ES. ES = FAIL..

there's a few people using hardrace bushings that have had them for a few years and they say there's no signs of wear

 

where did you get this info from?