so im planning to purchase new speakers. i understand 5.25" speakers will fit perfectly but i dont know if the depth of these speakers will fit perfectly.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-SPR-13C-5...3A1%7C294%3A50

can anyone confirm this? thanks

 

why wouldnt they fit?

 

If they don't fit you can just cut out the speaker basket

 

I noticed my crx si has larger baskets than the civic std I used to have. The crx had 6" baskets, but both need shallow speakers in them. if you want a more common size speaker maybe use the other baskets

 

hmmm are si hatchbacks speaker holes different size than dx hatchbacks?

 

they all should be the same size. i know pioneer speakers fit right in and dont need any cutting and sound good

 

are these going in the doors? if they are going in the rear then u shouldn't worry about it. I have 6x9s in the back, which is nice since that b16 is pretty loud
back to the question: you can always make something for very cheap to make then fit in the door, if they are too big. good luck

 

their going in the doors. i measured the hole in my door and it was 5.25". i wanted to put some 6.5"s, could i just use speaker spacers to make em fit? trying to avoid hitting the windows as well

 

I want to say that I have 6.5 in my doors but could be wrong I will go measure mines tomorrow and let you know. if i do I don't think there are any spacers, and i don't have any problems with hitting the window.
good luck

 

i have pioneers that fit like a dream in my 91 ef.

 

since i measure the speaker hole in my door was 5.25", does that mean 5.25" speakers will fit? or will it just go right through? or do i need a size bigger in order to screw it on?

im guessing the speaker has some sort of mounting plate on it that is bigger than 5.25" right?

 

Maybe I missed it but did the OP give a MM&Y of car???

Most Honda/Acura have STANDARD 6.5" speaker is the doors, mounting hole diameter in speaker housing is 5", mounting depth is 2" although up to a 3" deep speaker can be made to fit by cutting hole in back of housing for speaker magnet and adding a spacer between speaker.
Do not confuse OVERSIZED 6.5" speakers with STANDARD 6.5" speakers, the over-sized 6.5" speaker needs a bigger, [then 5"] diameter mounting hole.

With a custom MDF speaker housing, [to replace stock plastic speaker housing up the a 7" [by 3" deep] speaker can be installed in most Honda/Acura doors. 94

 

oh sorry. it's a 91 civic si.

well the diameter of the hole in my door is 5.25" but i think i could fit 6.5" alpine type r's with spacers. i dont know what people talk about speaker baskets and speaker mount cus i dont think i have it. my speakers are directly bolted on to the metal of the door. 2" or so behind the hole is the window.

just wanted to get some more power with 6.5"s but i think 5.25" type r's will do fine

 

well i made my mind up and picked up some 5.25" alpine type s's.

the speakers i have on my car right now are bolted right up to the door. is this how it is supposed to be? how am i going to mount my new speakers?

 

i have the same problem but i solved it and the 6.5 speakers will fit good

 

same car as me? and whatd you do to solve it?

 

There are also different depths to speakers, like stated above you might have to compensate. Crutchfield does a decent job at getting you started and gives easy navigation to speaker depths.

 

You can't mount any speaker properly without speaker housings, either the stock plastic ones... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-Cr...Q5fAccessories or custom MDF housings, mounting the speakers directly to the metal is not good for a number of reasons.

You have to make spacers anyway so no biggie. 94

 

ya i dont have those at all! i bought some spacers so that should do right? speaker>spacer>door

 

That may work, there are 3 main rules that need to be followed when installing speakers...

1- Speaker must be mounted to a flat surface.
This is so speaker basket does not warp, [misaligning VC] when
speaker is screwed down.

2- Speaker must have airtight seal between the front and back for at
least the diameter of the speaker from the speakers edge.
This means for your 5.25" speakers there must be an airtight seal
all around the speaker 5.25" out from the outside edge of the
speaker.

3- Mass, the more mass the speaker is mounted to the better it will
sound.

4- Not really another rule, just part of rule #3, a speaker mounted
wood will always sound better then that same speaker mounted
to just about anything else. 94

 

thanks a lot for the info fcm! i just don't really understand rule #2 you listed.

 

Think of it this way, for your 5.25" speaker to sound good it needs to be mounted in the center of a 15.75", [min.] diameter baffle this prevents the wave that comes off the front of the speaker and the wave that comes off the back of the speaker from "interfering" with each other and causing cancellation.
To fully understand, when you are removing the speaker in your car now, turn on the HU and then remove one of the speakers as you pull the speaker out of the mounting hole, [airtight seal is lost] there will be a loss of output and bass response, once all the way out the speaker will sound like crap and if you turn up the volume it will sound even worse. 94

 

ooooh. maybe thats why my current speakers are sounding like crap. or i think they jsut suck haha. so having the speaker mounted bolted directly on the door and spacer will make it sound like crap?

oh and when you say baffle, its the same thing as the OEM speaker basket right? (which i don't have)

 

or actually i just searched some up and found crutchfield helpful. i have about a 2" depth from the door metal to the window and a 5.25" diameter in the door hole.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZQr53RB...h=foam+baffles

i could just buy one of those right?

*oh yeah and i ended up buying 6.5 speakers. haha

thanks!

 

The baffle is the surface you mount the speaker to, the XTC "baffle" is also a baffle, just not the one I am talking about, and no, you do not want XTC baffles.

For the best possible SQ from speakers, [it makes no diff. what speaker you have, it applies to any speaker] what I do is replace the stock plastic speaker housings with custom, [ones I make myself] MDF speaker housings.
I start by making a mounting plate out of 1/2" MDF, I will use a stock plastic housing as a template to make my mounting plate so it has the same "footprint" as the stock one, it will also mount using the same 4 mounting screw holes as the stock housing.

Once the mounting plates are made I will make MDF spacers to make up the diff. in mounting depth, they are nothing more then MDF "rings" that have an inside diameter the same as the speakers mounting diameter, and an outside diameter the same as the speakers overall diameter, I will center the spacer(s) over the mounting plate, if the speakers are over-sized 6.5" the spacers may cover all or some of the mounting holes in the mounting plate, if so studs will have to be installed in those holes and the plastic insert in the doors metal skin where screw goes will have to be removed so stud will go through and you will put a washer, lock washer and nut on the stud.

Once you know you can mount the mounting plate to the door with screws or studs you will glue the spacer(s) to the mounting plate, once glue has set up I will clean them up and paint on a wood sealer, I use fiberglass resin, once dry I will paint them flat black.

Before mounting them I will install at least 1 sqft Dynamat, [or the like] panels where speaker housing goes, doing the whole door is even better, it works great as a gasket for that airtight seal, I will also make a gasket for the speaker out of Dynamat, again for an airtight seal.
Your done. 94