crx b16a axle ?
OK so my passenger side axle boot closes to the tranny is hella ripped. would it still be safe to drive on? If safe how long would it be safe for? about how much would it cost to replace the boot?
all input greatly appreciated, thanks H-T
all input greatly appreciated, thanks H-T
should be ok for a little while. then itll start clicking as you turn. that when everything inside starts to dry up. but if your looking to fix its cheaper to get new axle.
I'm 100% sure a new boot cost less! Even if you add the cost of the clamp crimping tool. It still would be less, And it's an easy fix, just read up on the how to do boot replacement blog.
Trending Topics
CRX=MC2
I'm 100% sure a new boot cost less! Even if you add the cost of the clamp crimping tool. It still would be less, And it's an easy fix, just read up on the how to do boot replacement blog.
DO YOU HAVE A LINK FOR THIS, TRIED TO SEARCH AND GOT NOTHING?
Aristotle
Man you're going to break that axle as soon as you gun it son.
I DROVE IT TODAY AND GUNNED IT PRETTY GOOD AND IT HELD UP. IF I WERE TO DRIVE IT WITHOUT GUNNING IT (if that is possible) HOW LONG DO U THINK IT WILL HOLD FOR?
THANKS
I'm 100% sure a new boot cost less! Even if you add the cost of the clamp crimping tool. It still would be less, And it's an easy fix, just read up on the how to do boot replacement blog.
DO YOU HAVE A LINK FOR THIS, TRIED TO SEARCH AND GOT NOTHING?
Aristotle
Man you're going to break that axle as soon as you gun it son.
I DROVE IT TODAY AND GUNNED IT PRETTY GOOD AND IT HELD UP. IF I WERE TO DRIVE IT WITHOUT GUNNING IT (if that is possible) HOW LONG DO U THINK IT WILL HOLD FOR?
THANKS
I just got a quoted $150 for axle and labor. is this a reasonable price?
I know it would be cheaper to do the labor myself, but don't have the tools.
thanks guys keep the advice coming
dude you will need
jack
breaker bar
screwdriver flattip
ratchet
i think a 30mm dont quote me on that
and 12-i think 17 mm sockets u will save a buttload of money doing yourself it will be cheaper buying the tools
jack
breaker bar
screwdriver flattip
ratchet
i think a 30mm dont quote me on that
and 12-i think 17 mm sockets u will save a buttload of money doing yourself it will be cheaper buying the tools
what about alignment? Do I have to drain the tranny fluid? what sort of parts are needed other then the axle?
I have hydraulic floor jack, two jack stands, and wrenches 17mm being the biggest. on a scale from 1-10 how hard would this be? and this is a noob scale. I have never done anything like this. the most I have done was change fuel pumps, filters, exhaust manifold gasket, oil change, spark plugs, drop gas tank, and change alternator.
well you get the idea nothing to hard
thanks everyone keep the advise coming
I have hydraulic floor jack, two jack stands, and wrenches 17mm being the biggest. on a scale from 1-10 how hard would this be? and this is a noob scale. I have never done anything like this. the most I have done was change fuel pumps, filters, exhaust manifold gasket, oil change, spark plugs, drop gas tank, and change alternator.
well you get the idea nothing to hard
thanks everyone keep the advise coming
its a 32 mm nut on the axles btw, they are not hard to change after you do it once... but you don't need to get an alignment, and the shop won't do one for just $150... sears has a ball joint separator I think its a pickle bar it has a U at one end and you hammer on the other end...not expensive. however, the axle nut can be the hardest to get off... thats the 32 mm one, I have broken countless craftsman ratchets, so be sure to use tools that have a warranty. you can use a cheater bar system such as a hollow metal pole over the ratchet to get more torque on the nut.
if you don't have the money for tools now, save up a little and buy them, it will still be cheaper than labor at a shop.
about the tranny fluid.. sometimes it will start draining when you pull an axle out, so be ready to catch it and refill if needed. 10W30 is ok.
if you don't have the money for tools now, save up a little and buy them, it will still be cheaper than labor at a shop.
about the tranny fluid.. sometimes it will start draining when you pull an axle out, so be ready to catch it and refill if needed. 10W30 is ok.
What axle am I going to need? Whats the year, make, and model of car it comes out of? I'm going to start calling local part stores for pricing. should I get new with life time warranty? would there be a cheaper rout to go without haven't to go to a junkyard and pull it myself ?
it is for the passenger side
I have 1990 hf Crx
jdm b16
ys1 tranny
thanks everyone keep the advise coming.
I've decided to do the labor my self I found a wright up in the FAQ that makes it look super easy.
it is for the passenger side
I have 1990 hf Crx
jdm b16
ys1 tranny
thanks everyone keep the advise coming.
I've decided to do the labor my self I found a wright up in the FAQ that makes it look super easy.
my b16 drivers side axle boot is shredded completely...i just keep greasin it up till i can get the money and time to replace it...ive been driving on it over 400 miles now...actually more than that cuz i recently discovered it was torn...so god knows how many miles ive covered on a torn axle boot...grease it up should be alright
that's great to know that I can get by for a couple of week tell I get cash to buy new axle.
will the 91 Acura integra ls axle work?
should I buy new axle for 69.99+tax with life time warranty, or rebuilt for $10 less with same warranty?
will the 91 Acura integra ls axle work?
should I buy new axle for 69.99+tax with life time warranty, or rebuilt for $10 less with same warranty?
yes any da integra axle will work 90-93ls/gs/rs/gsr any but when you get the axle for the driver side make sure it has a male female side to it and if you can get one with no abs you should get that although it really dosnt matter if it had it and you dont really need to worry about your axle breaking in half it's more of just the cv that will give way but that will give you a waring it will first start clicking loud enough to hear and then it will start jerking the wheel a little and then your cv is done and you need to replace it
Last edited by DCFerris; Apr 16, 2009 at 03:14 PM.
Are any of those axle stronger then the others Ls/Rs/Gs/Gsr?
As far as the jerking, will it jerk hard enough to pull me out of my lane?
thanks everyone, keep the advice coming
As far as the jerking, will it jerk hard enough to pull me out of my lane?
thanks everyone, keep the advice coming
do I have to drain my tranny fluid when I install the new axle? Is there any seals or bushings that I need to get when I replace the axle? do those magnetic drain plugs work well? would I benefit from getting one?
sure if you want to get a magnetic drain plug you can its not a need to have thing. when you pop the passenger side axle it will most likely leak some fluid. if you want you could drain it and not have to worry about it leaking but i wouldn't. and if your just replacing the axle you dont need anything else but the axle


