Well, I'm not going to do a build thread because I am F'n terrible at keeping up with them so I'll spare you guys the disappointment, haha. But I do want to share some pics, and knowledge of my F2d setup using Bisi's Hasport mounts for the F2d in an EF. Not sure if anyone has posted up pics using these mounts, so hopefully this is useful to some considering the swap.


The basics:

F series engines will all fit like this, sans the s2000 of course, but f22a1/a4/a6, f22b1/b2, f23a4/a5/a7, etc will mount up just like this.

Hood clearance WILL be an issue, plan to cut, chop, customize your hood. If it were only the valve cover than you'd be set with some washers in the hinges, but the big obstacle here is the intake manifold.

f22a hood clearance: valve cover may clear just by cutting your under webbing and relocating your pvc, f22a4 intake manifold will protrude nearly 2.5" after hood is cut around plenum. The best choice here is an f22a6 manifold with the butterfly plate removed to lower its hieght. It still wont clear, but it is much better.

f22b/f23 hood clearance: Valve cover becomes more of an issue with the vtec variants, expect to cut webbing, relocate pcv, and shim the back with washers. Intake manifold will sit slightly lower than the f22a combo's, but cutting the hood will still be necessary for all of them

Ground clearance: Not bad, when this swap was in my crx with about a 2.5" drop, I never had an issue with bottoming out, I'd say it's more clearance than a b swap with a 4-1 header.

Frame rail clearance: There can be no timing covers with this swap. Balance shafts MUST be deleted. Bisi's crank pulley is a must. A custom alternator bracket is completely necessary. a customized tensioner pulley bolt will also be needed. With all of this, there is NO necessary cutting the the chassis of the car whatsoever. I made my own alternator bracket, but explicit makes them for pretty good prices that will do the trick.

Front crossmember: There is actually plenty of clearance here for the factory front crossmember IF you use the factory exhaust manifold... Going into headers and or turbo down pipes I can assure that an aftermarket traction bar will be needed.

Mounts: Buy the mounts, Buy the mounts, seriously just buy the mounts... You can rig it up to use a factory accord drivers mount, and factory civic trans mounts if you have fabricating skills but the factory front trans mount will NOT work with the f2d adapter plate so a front motor mount has to be fabbed up to give the motor the support it needs. It is possible, but a major pain to come up with something that will work and not interfere with your radiator, exhaust manifold/down pipe, alternator, etc. With the Bisi/Hasport mounts only three mounts are needed, so it frees up a lot of space where you would have needed a front mount. I wouldn't even consider doing the swap again if I couldn't use the mounts... My first f2d CRX was done without mounts, what a nightmare.

Exhaust manifold: Any manifold designed for the f-series (stock or aftermarket) will need to be modified to be useful... The problem is that f's are leaned back in the accord engine bay, but standing straight up when you go f2d, so the angle of the lower pipe has to be decreased. In stock fashion the f series lower manifold pipe will point at your steering rack. Easy fix is to lock them into a vice, heat up the curve with a torch and BEND. Not too tricky, the outlet of the pipe just needs to move down about 2". Otherwise, you could just make your own lower pipe.

Here's a few shots of how the engine sits in the bay, Keep in mind this is in a wagon, it will seam much taller in other chassis... Also, I painted my mounts black, but they were originally billet aluminum.








Here's the money shot, you can see here that there is no neccesary cutting for clearance of the alternator pulley on this side.



Hopefully theres some people out there that find this useful, I know I had a helluva time gathering info when I started my F2d... If you've got questions about anything feel free to ask. Here's a few links to some of the products that make the swap possible.


www.bisimoto.com <f2d adapter plate, mounts, flywheel, crank pulley, and a lot of goodies to make your f series F'n serious

www.kaizenspeed.com <balance shaft delete kit

www.explicitspeedperformance.net < alternator bracket

 

great build, love to see something different.

 

awesome...glad you got pics up!

the only reason didnt want to do it was the tiny crank pulley. i measured it out when i did mine, and with the old bisi pulley i used, i could have gotten away without lopping off the frame...i just did it to get "factory" clearance. it was too close for me.

glad it gives you that much room, thats way more than i'd thought. this makes this swap actually do-able for most people! RAD

 

Excellent review. I look forward to the completion of this nice project.

 

looks awesome, I'm amazed that it fits without chassis modification. What's the motor? Just an F23 with an F22a6 head?

 

man, this makes me wanna do this in a sedan now.....hmmmmm.....

 

I've been wondering about putting my f23a5 in my CRX for so long...

So with the bisi mounts and f/d plate the engine and transmission directly bolt in, minus the pulley issues?

 

exactly, f23a7 with f22a6 head

yeah, direct bolt in after the balance shafts are deleted. Thanks for all the comments!

 

im so glad you posted this. especially with pictures. i have been waiting for a while now for someone to post a good review.

Time to start planning this again.

sidenote saw bisi f-series cam gear was out of stock...

 

Here's a pic from today with my finished vc, shaved and painted in caddy pearl white.

 

that motor is clean! I'm diggin the vc. i would like to do that to my b16 vc, shaved with a white pearl. nice build

 

looks sweet dude! check out my h2d in my 4door, the mounts are very nice and makes droping it in alot easier. how much was the crank pulley from bisimoto?

 

pulley was less than $100 shipped if I remember right, h22 looks bad *** in there, does it clear the shock tower without hammering?

 

ya it clears with no problem the belt actually has like 1-1 1/2 inches of clearance. thats not bad for the pulley I will have to buy one

 

I was wondering what the F2D would look like in a wagon, gives me hope. Good info, clears up a lot of questions. Thanks.

 

sorry for the noob question but what advantage is gained by using a d series transmission?

 

I would like to know as well anyone?

 

the d transmisson is already in the car, so you dont have to buy another trans when you have a perfectly good one in the car, and also retain stock axles

also d trans are way cheaper, so if something goes wrong with the current one or if you want to put in a z6 trans its alot less than a b series

 

there are tons of spare parts available too because everyone is running for the B series and popular transmissions. I counted more than 5 d-series transmissions in my local junkyard.

 

Ya i have a z6 tranny in my car now and i got it for like $80-$100 something like that, when you get into hydro trannys they have steel shift forks. but as for d series bisi says that the gear box takes better to abuse and are stonger then b series. Say what you want on the matter but I believe him cuz he has alot of experience with them. and yes they are a dime a dozen.

 

back from the dead. Can the OP tell me what diameter the flywheel is that comes with the kit and do you have an pic of the back of the block that had to be shaved to clear the axles?

thanks

 

great thread...always nice to have in depth information on swap possibilities.

 

Nice build.

 

it's nice to see something other than an H22 head... good info.

i've got a very similar build going into an EJ6. i'm not able to test fit the motor (still have to drive the car to work everyday...) so i took some mesurements for hood clearance. it seems the need for hood modification or cutting will be minimal if at all.

how far off is your expected completion?

 

Ive done alot of diff swaps but for some reason I have really really wanted to do this one. It looks really good in the bay and could make big power if you wanted. Are there any updates?