will be running Redline Time Attack Street FWD and a whole lot of HPDEs
Here is the list and now added purchases in (purchased) and changes in Bold
Integra Build

Engine:
Block: USDM GSR B18C1 (purchased)
Pistons: CTR Pistons .25overbore JDM ITR Pistons (purchased)
Rods: OEM GSR w/ ARP Rodbolts (purchased)
ITR Oil & Waterpump
ARP Headstuds
ARP Mainstuds
Rebalanced and assembled either by Whoopee Doo Racing or still looking for shops

Head: USDM GSR B18C1 (purchased)
HeadGasket: OEM 3 Layer
Cams: Skunk2 Pro 1s
Cam Gears: Skunk2 Pro Series
Valvetrain: Skunk2 Pro Series Valves w/5 angle valve job, valve springs, and titanium retainers and new OEM valve stem seals assembled by Evans Tuning.

Intake:
Manifold: Skunk2 Pro Series Manifold w/ Hondata Gasket (purchased)
Throttle Body: Skunk2 Pro Series 62mm 68mm
Intake: Custom length intake to passenger side high beam(will be cut out)

Fuel: 93 Octane
Fuel Rail: Skunk2 Fuel Rail Stock GSR
Fuel Pump: Walbro 255 InTank
Fuel Line: B&R AN line Stock
Injectors: RC Engineering 370cc

Exhaust:
Header: Some Tri-Y header. Maybe ASP or something with 2.5” collector RMF Narrow
Cat: SMSP 2.5” Hi-Flo or Gutted. 3" Cat
Cat-Back: 2.5” piping to Apexi N1 3" Piping

Drivetrain:
I have a JDM B16A and a GSR tranny
Im going to bolt on the GSR tranny at first because its assembled and the B16 isnt and see how I like it but whichever one I choose will be getting
LSD: M Factory Helical LSD
FlyWheel: Exedy 9.5lb
Clutch: ClutchMasters Stage 2
Clutch Line: B&R AN clutch line

Mounts:
Hasport Race Mounts 70a
Energy Suspension Torque Mount Inserts

Sorry for the long list but wanted to make sure everything was on there

 

if it were me i would be asking evans tuning about your list. Will he be doing the tuning also? Not that it matters to me, but it seems like the guy building your motor would have a better idea of what is right for your build.

 

i have it posted on the evans-tuning forum. im just getting ideas from people

 

Whats the goals for this car?

 

i plan to start running in Redline Time Attack FWD Street Class and ill be doing a bunch of HPDEs. I dont plan on daily driving it. i will only drive it to the event and at the event

 

Why does everyone want CTR pistons? Why challenge the tuner? Just get P30's, or USDM P73's or JDM P73's.
Just use a new Oil and water pump, same part number for a GSR and ITR.
5 angle valve job verse 3 angle minimal gain. Waste of money.
Skunk doesn't make a 62mm T/B, Just get your stock T/B bored out to 64mm.
Make sure your intake piping is 3".
Stock fuel rail can handle way more power than you'll see. Stock fuel pump will also work. Don't really need a new fuel line either, waste of money.
You ment SMSP for the header, right?
Tuning Hondata S300?
Try to save up some money and get the head PnP'd.
I bet you think you'll get over 200whp with this. You'll be close.

 

sounds like a good build, few things unnecessary but good to get done and over with, but def be concerned with the tuning because thats going to make or break the entire build, and while your at it get some ACL bearings any maybe the extra oil line to the head from the ls/vtec kit to keep oil in that bitch at 10grand

 

nice all motor car! like the bottom end that your going to work on. i was going to do that setup but its pricy.

 

Tuning will be on s300 and my swap didnt come with any fuel parts so i decided to just go ahead and put them on the list. and with the cat. ive heard recommanditons for what i believe was SMSP high flows. i just need to run one with Redline Street class

 

You can ignore this post. An "extra" oil line is pointless. Show me someone else that does this.

Sounds like a good build man. Like the others said, a few unnecessary items, but your headed in the right direction.

 

Alright, so I am switching to JDM ITR pistons on GSR rods with ARP rodbolts. and according to zealautowerks compression calculator.

With p73-00 3 layer headgasket = 11.59 Compression

With p73-00 2 layer headgasket = 11.81 Compression

and im going to start looking for stock GSR fuel rail, line, and FPR

 

this should be an exciting build

 

alot of those things u posted are unnecessary.. just do some more research and make sure wat u get is in ur price range

 

Sounds like your off to a good start.. GL with the build

 

alright i updated the list. let me know if you have parts for sale or advice.

 

the b16 gears are more suited to that build. so far it's looking great though. make sure to figure your compression in order to shave what you need. other than that degreeing the cams and a tune are the really big things.

 

I kind of see what you are going for, but there are somethings that you need to change do the compression that you will running with them CTR pistons in that GSR block...go with a larger injector, as them 370's will max out...no need for a 3" exhaust this will kill your bottom end power band...stick to a 2.5" you need some of that back pressure. Use the B16 tranny, and due away with the GSR. your cam profile is to small for the rest of that head and block set up...try something larger like a Buddyclub stage 3 cam, the overbore size of your pistons is very large, I hope your getting that block sleeved. Try getting an oil pan that has the sump closer to the block so that your engine doesn't have issues durning track envents with fast cornering oil travels to one side, and this will cause the engine to fry the piston rings that aren't getting oil...Also there is large list of parts...But I don't see your most imporant part....where is your brake set up?

 

Im not using the CTR pistons anymore, im using JDM ITR pistons. the exhaust ive heard o
pinions going both ways. The pistons arnt overbore sized. and i plan on getting the moroso pan and pickup. and with brakes. already taken care of.

 

Cool the JDM P73 piston is a pretty high compression piston as well, but you should be good with a 3 layer gasket...And I say do more research on the exhaust...I wouldn't guide in a wrong direction...I have an Eg6 built for touge, and I've experimented with tons of parts and set ups...And Iam tell you that a 2.5 is the way to go. Good chioce when the oil pan if it is just for track use, but know that they are made of aluminum whick makes them weak...I say use your stock, just have someone weld you a new baffle inside that makes the oil sit closer to the crank without distrubing the way the oil pump sits....get more oil splashed on them sleeves!