I am upgrading my stereo system, new speakers front and back, amp, sub and headunit. My question is how the hell do I replace the factory speakers. I have torn apart almost the whole passenger side. The factory wire exits the door, goes 90, then up a bit, then 90 into the car. The wires appear to be behind the SRS. I have already removed the glove box but still can not get to the wires. Any suggestions or tricks?

 

Why do you need to get to the wires, if you are going to use them you only need to get to the speaker ends, if you are not going to use them and run new speaker wire just ignore the stock ones. 94

 

x2
there shoud be no need to get to the oem wires.

 

Pretty good point. Never thought of it that way. How do I get the new wires from the door to the frame where they can be hidden? Basically how would I run the wires from the speakers to the amp without them being seen? I was trying to go through the stock location to keep them hidden, but I don't think I can actually get access to that.

 

The main problem is getting the speaker wire [16ga] into the pass. compartment from inside the door.

The best way is through the stock door harness "boot" and plug although some would argue it's easier the pull the fenders ans drill new holes in the door and the lower "A" pillar and install a 2nd boot for the speaker wire.

I guess it is a toss up which way is better/easier, I have used both methods.
If all I am running is speaker wire, [no door lock, power window or security wiring] and depending on the car, I will use the existing harness boot.

Remove door panels, speakers and speaker housings, remove kick panels, "peel" rubber boot off plug at "A" piller, [where door harness goes into car] unplug door harness from dash harness, pull door harness, along with rubber boot and plug into the door and out the speaker opening, you will need to "undo" one or two harness "hold downs" inside the door.

Un-clip the dash harness plug from the "A" piller and pull it into the car, a harness "hold down" may also need to be undone to allow the harness/plug to drop down enough for you to work on it.

Once the harnesses have been pulled back and out, there should be enough slack to plug the door harness plug back into the dash harness plug.

All the above is done so you can get access to the plugs to work on them.
Starting with the door harness plug, find two or more unused pin locations that are together, [next to each other in the plug] carefully drill/ream them out to make a hole big enough for the speaker wire to pass easily through, being careful not to damage any pins or pin "slots" next to the ones you are drilling out, do the same on the dash harness plug.

Depending on model of car you may find wires in the slots on the dash harness side that match up with the empty slots on the door harness side, in that case de-pin them, cap them off, fold and tape them out of the way to the dash harness, if you have a "fully loaded" model there may not be any unused pin slots, in that case, or even if there is unused ones, you will find enough room along the outside edge pin slots, but still within the plugs to drill out a hole big enough for the speaker wire to fit through.

Once you have the holes drilled, run the speaker wire through the dash harness plug, making sure there is enough to reach the speaker, [then add at least a foot more], reinstall/clip the dash harness plug into the "A" piller, re-run the door harness plug and boot out of the door into the door jamb, feed the speaker lead through the hole in the door harness plug and through the rubber boot into the door.
Reinstall rubber boot onto door harness plug and plug it back into the dash harness plug, get rid of speaker wire slack between plugs by pulling it into the door, once plugs are back together, STOP EVERYTHING, before moving on test all power "door functions", [power windows, locks, mirrors and central locking] if good, re-tape rubber boot on door side and reinstall grommet into door.

All the hard stuff is done, lift door sill trim. run speaker wire down kick panel and along the wire path, [where floor pan meats door sill] tuck it under/behind rear side panel trim to trunk, [where I assume you are installing amp].

If you search you may be able to find a DIY W/ pix, most 2000 up Honda/Acura will be pretty much the same. 94

 

That seems pretty tough. Are you saying there is a separate harness for the door and the dash, that connect together? Don't I run the risk of not being able to reconnect them if I take them apart and one falls behind where I can reach? To undo the door harness holds wont I have to remove the inside door metal shell? I haven't removed the boot, but I will try to do so, however the problem is I can not access the spot on the A pillar where the harness enters the car because it is behind the SRS. I will fiddle with the boot and see where it gets me, but I am thinking I wont be able to access either harness clips.

 

Yes the door harness is plugged into the dash harness, normally at the "A" piller, [sometimes at the door] there is little chance that you could "loose" a plug, if it's easier, remove the SRS bag.

Once you remove the door panel, speaker and speaker housing you may need to fold back the vapor barrier just to make access a little easier, there is no "metal shell" to remove.

The plug will unplug from between the door and the "A" piller.

I have done many Honda/Acura without too many problems, some model years are easier/harder then others.

Your other option is to pull the fenders, drill holes and install a 2nd boot for the speaker wires, some guys pull the doors, but that only works if the hinge pins are removable, [otherwise you need to pull the fenders, so no need to pull the doors]. 94

 

Alright, here is an update. For a wile I have been fixing a free mower, and our grass needs it bad, got that done so I fiddled with the speaker situation again. Pulled the rubber boot from the car to door off and was able to figure out where the wires route to. The wires from the door electronics plug into a harness by the passenger side fuse box, it wont be much trouble at all to route new wires to that location and then to the back. I am hoping the driver side is just as easy.
On to the next question, routing the power wire from the battery through the firewall. I found a spot pretty close behind the power distribution box, but can't tell for sure. I think it would make it a lot easier if I could remove the power distribution box, that would give me more movement around that opening in the firewall. There is one screw that I already removed but the box seems to be attached in the back, like on a clip or something, it doesn't appear to have any screws holding it in the back. Anyone have any ideas on how to get this out so I can get better access to the firewall? I have already tried moving it side to side, up and down.