so after searching and searching the forums and google i havnt been able to come up with the answer that im looking for.

My question is... What exactly do you have to do to make a Jdm itr piston fit a ls rod? and is it worth it ?

im building a lsvtec and i wanted to use this piston because it will bring my CR to about 11.3:1 and that way i can still run pump gas (92 octane) i dont want to go over 11.5:1 being that i wouldnt be able to run pump gas (92 octane) or i should say its not recomended.

 

44 veiws and no answer

 

thats the same set up i had on my ls/vtec and i never had any problems with it. if i remember correctly all you have to do is have the piston end of the ls rods shaved down to fit in the itr piston, a good machine shop should be able to do this.

 

And people wonder why Noobs get flamed so hard in here.

Pinky....ever think of doing a search, maybe? Maybe put in some effort before expecting everyone to jump to answer your question that's been covered over and over and over and over.....

 

Just get the RS machine B16a piston. No machining required and it will get you mid 11s for a CR.

Many, Many people have been very successful with that piston as part of their engine build.

 

RS Machine pistons are definatly a good way to go.

I thought id just add this info just in case you do end up with an ITR set.

The wristpin end of an ls/b20 rod needs about .040 milled off each side to fit the piston.
I know some people prefer to relieve the piston as opposed to the rod, however I have
not had an issue with taking the material off the rod. If your not able to do this yourself
correctly, it would probably make it more cost effective to go with the RS set.

Taken from ffsquad-

 

well if you read my post i say that i used the search and i came up with nothing i did find where someone used itr pistons on a ls rod but my question was what exactly do i have to do to make them fit like how much do i have to shave off the rod or piston and is this a safe and relible set up. i couldnt find that anywhere it just came up with a bunch of other random threads, so if you use the search and find my questions then you can go ahead and flame me but till then...

 

and thank you ef1.8 for the great picture its exactly what i was looking for

 

And your purpose here is to be a butt hole. After reading the first few threads in the All Motor Section and finding nothing but negativity coming from you. I am sure your first couple hundred posts included some form of idiotic questions. If you have a problem with someones question try PMing them with a suggestion on how phrase future questions otherwise don't flame them in their own thread.

I had a lsvtec motor in my car last season that I utilized .25 oversized Nippon p73 Type R pistons on LS rods. I heated the wrist pins and pressed them in with no fitment issues. Only thing needing to be machined was after I installed and torqued the arp rod bolts the big end needs to be machined for roundness. I threw that tidbit of information in because I believe it is a necessary upgrade if you plan on running your LS bottom end hard. I had no problems with it and my motor constantly revved from 5000-8400 every straightaway.

 

n00bs should be trained to search first, post second. This is a tech question whose answer was widely known on the forums 12 years ago, basic tech, and it's reiteration results in poor signal:noise ratio which dumbs down a tech forum. Every forum I have ever been on that was worth logging into, n00bs were scolded for not searching.

Also, it was commonly known 12 years ago that the Honda rod bolts are not weak therefore ARP = unneccesary, and commonly known 80 years ago that replacing the big end fasteners of a connecting rod meant it had to be resized.

Some of us are pretty rude with how we treat people, but at least we grasp our basics.

 

And the Radiator was patented in 1928. 81 years ago so that sounds about right with the connecting rod timeline... Dick.

 

Joeseph I agree with everything said especially the searching for common knowledge, but assuming you knew the rod in question is ls/b20 leaves me kinda confused on your stance about the rod bolts not being a weak point.
Were you thinking of vtec rods?

Also btw speaking of 12 years ago I think I remember you from over at hybrid.

 

OK I apologize for my rude post I look like a jerk now, OP I hope my original post helped you.

 

yeah thanks for all the input.

just to makes things clear... when i joined this forum i knew that alot of people get flamed for not using the search before posting a question, and i used the search and all i could really find was that you have to shave the rod ends i just wanted to know how much and if its a safe and relible set up.

 

I was on Hybrid before there was an Alley, but I don't recognize your name so you must have changed it. Do you know where I can find TJ Schmidt? He fell off the face of the planet 3-4 years ago.

Last Thursday I did the warm weather IAT trims on a friend's stock rod, stock rod bolt, LS with B16 pistons, 3G Prelude intake valve (33mm aka poor man's P8R), Crower 404 setup. We spin it to 8500 and spray a 150 shot. He daily drives it. You remember Trickturn from Hybrid? He has over 80K+ on a B20/VTEC he built for the first season of ECHC, which was made obsolete when they changed the rules the next season. So he turned it into a daily driver. I've never seen a Honda rod bolt break unless the bearing seized against the crank... the cause was lack of oilling, not the rod bolt.

Jojo Callos ran the first generation Eagle rods with the 8mm rod bolts to 1200whp on a bet, you remember the rods that were "bad" because they didn't have the same size fastener as a stock VTEC rod, as if that had anything to do with whether or not a rod bolt is weak. Not a stock Honda rod bolt, no, but a classic example of uneducated bandwagon mentality. Nobody can tell you what the metallurgy, tensile strength, etc of a stock rod bolt is but they know for a fact it's bad.

 

im building a 12.5.1 compression ls vtec with ctr pistons do you guys recommend i use a blockguard or not? i already have the short block assembled with pistons and rods and crank and ready to go so is it too late to install a blockguard?

 

What made you choose this thread to post your question? Lol not really the best one.

 

first i joined in 2003 as 89efstd and i havent been to active cause i started a family and work so i started back up on here last year before any one says im a noob....

but i wanna chime in who cares what people ask this site is about advice and help , we all share the same interests which are fixing cars and thats what it should be searching **** only goes so far back and who knows maybe advice given 7 years ago is wrong today (just saying) so i say bash some one for doing something wrong not trying to get it right and grow up were all adults

 

Who me? I was just asking y he chose this thread. He would have been better off making a new thread seeing as this one for the most part has little if nothing to do with his question. Don't know why u would think I'm bashing someone.

 

no no lol..... not u perivous people on here

 

Shave 1mm off each side of the small end of the rod, only then will u have a proper conversion according to a respected honda engine builder.

On the other hand, ARP's would be great insurance due to the higher compression your adding.

 

I think its more of the ls rod bolts stretching than breaking. get the arps and be done with it. or stay at the ls stock redline


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

 

just noticed this is a 3 year old thread lol


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android