remote connected to positive terminal hellp its the only way my amp works
ok so my amp is connected correctly with a 4 guage wiring kit. and the remote is connected to my fuse box were the radio fuse is...and it doesnt turn on so i got a piece of wire and connected the battery power to the remote with still leave the remote connected to the fuse box.. and this is the only way the amp turns on and not only that the amp starts clipping at higher volume the amp is a alpine mrp-m650 connected too 2 audiobahn subs i have wired them so many different ways and it does the same thing every time..if i crank up the volume the amp starts clipping or just shuts off until i lower the volume the head unit is also a alpine head unit help
First, why is amp remote connected to fuse box, why not to the Alpine HUs amp control output?
What is the model number of the subs?
What type of fuse is in the 4ga power lead?
Where and how is the amp grounded?
How long is the ground lead?
Have you "beefed up" the batt. to chassis ground? 94
What is the model number of the subs?
What type of fuse is in the 4ga power lead?
Where and how is the amp grounded?
How long is the ground lead?
Have you "beefed up" the batt. to chassis ground? 94
because i tried the remote wire in back of the head unit and i was always just used to doing it that way..but i kept trying to hook it up to the head unit and it never worked so i went to the radio fuse....the subs are the aw151t these subs worked before when i was running my autotek amp but that amp blew because the groud wire ripped so i think it shocked the amp or something...im running a 100 fuse and another 80...the amp is grounded to my trunk to my rear liights stud its touching the chassis its sanded down and everything.. the ground lead is about 2ft or a lil longer...my battery to chassis ground is stock and the battery is a way bigger then stock battery and just recetly i cut adn replaced my wires for my battery and cleaned and sprayed protectant on them....btw the remote and positive terminal have a wire connecting them ad its the only way the amp turns on
The first thing I would do is move the ground, tail light studs make poor amp grounds, seat and seat belt bolts/studs work best, or any bolt/stud in the floor pan of the car, even the bolts that hold the bumper, [in trunk/hatch floor pan] or shock tower stud would be better.
The other issue is wattage, the Alpine MRD-M650 is 1x600W RMS into 2 ohms and that's at 14.4V, your running two 650W continuous power handling subs for a total of 1300W, although you can drive the subs with 600W RMS you are still way underpowered.
My guess is you are over-driving the amp into constant clipping and that is why amp is shutting down, that is a much bigger problem if the amp has a poor power and/or ground issue.
The other issue may be a problem with the subs themselves, I would pull and check them.
I did not ask what size the fuse is, I asked what type of fuse it is.
Also, why are there two fuses???
The power lead should have one in-line fuse, a 150A ANL, [W/ post type fuse holder] would be best.94
The other issue is wattage, the Alpine MRD-M650 is 1x600W RMS into 2 ohms and that's at 14.4V, your running two 650W continuous power handling subs for a total of 1300W, although you can drive the subs with 600W RMS you are still way underpowered.
My guess is you are over-driving the amp into constant clipping and that is why amp is shutting down, that is a much bigger problem if the amp has a poor power and/or ground issue.
The other issue may be a problem with the subs themselves, I would pull and check them.
I did not ask what size the fuse is, I asked what type of fuse it is.
Also, why are there two fuses???
The power lead should have one in-line fuse, a 150A ANL, [W/ post type fuse holder] would be best.94
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jadugartir
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Apr 14, 2005 09:26 AM




