I've been having intermittant stalling/quitting issues with my 166k Honda Civic EX. Threw code P0420. Replaced the Catalytic converter and O2 sensor for Cat, waiting on the upstream sensor to come in.

Problems:
-Vehicle can just quit, this usually happens at low RPM/idle. Will crank but difficult to start back up immediately... usually waiting a minute or two (or overnight) will allow for restart of engine.
-I notice that with medium accelartation... especially doing a maneuver like a U-turn, car doesn't want to smoothly accelerate... feels like mild fluttering of fuel system as rpm's increase. Middle to high acceleration isn't that bad.

Q: will a bad upstream O2 sensor cause stalling?
Q: " " " " " " " poor performance?

What should I look at as a culprit as I check this out..? I'm changing out the upstream o2 sensor tomorrow, changed the Cat converter as well as the cat. o2 sensor. I'm also changing out fuel filter and sparkplugs (which looked clean, not fouled... greyish). Thanks for any help..

 

What year is your civic? How clean is your air filter? Is it timed properly? Also test you cam position sensor. The O2 sensor shouldn't cause these things to happen, worst from that should be rough idle.

 

The year... 99 Civic EX. Air filter clean, new spark plugs, fuel filter. Changing the catalytic converter and the mentioned things seemed to solve the stalling problem; it just doesn't have clean acceleration... nit-picky stuff, but needs looking into more (when I have more money). I'll look into the camshaft sensor and install the upstream o2 sensor when I get it in the mail. The car's got 166k miles, so the o2 sensors could probably use changing anyhow; the cat converter was toast. Thanks for the reply, GD.

 

Also... new timing chain two years ago.

 

.. also.. ignition switch already replaced x 1 year ago due to the recall... with similar problems, but worse, at the time.

 

Are all of your malfunction indication lights resolved now ?

 

Indicators were diagnosed when the code (P0420) was initially pulled. The code was erased prior to any work being done and did not return, even though the car was doing its frequent stalling at the time. The car hasn't thrown any codes since the initial erase, and through doing the above corrections, I've gotten it to run pretty well except for a mildly hesitant and not so clean acceleration. I guess most importantly, it doesn't stall anymore. I'll be putting in the upstream sensor today and will drive it around to see if the dirty acceleration is resolved, though I'm mainly doing for the cat converter. Thanks for inquiring.... will post with an update soon. ~ rob

 

Civic stalled again, without notice. Engine warmed, entered a parking lot, lower rpm and speed turn... quit. Dead. My son, who was driving, tried to start it again, starter cranked, console lights are on, no turn over of engine. I showed up about 10 minutes later, cranked engine and it started right back up. I drove around and it acted normal.... any thoughts, anyone?

 

Now son, who drives car, has asked me if "getting a shock when he opens the door (using handle) or when he puts key in ignition is normal?".... ignition switch, perhaps... but what would be the connection to the door, if this is the case? I'm nearly done with this car. Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks, rob

 

Hi i have the exact problems and looking into it now!! I had my car checked out alternator, cam and crank sensor are dying on me so i am getting it replaced this week. Hope you also let me know if you did replace and how was it after?!

 

I replaced a lot of things, but what seemed to fix my stalling issue is a replacement of either the main (fuel) relay and ignition module (the ignition module is located in the distributer); with the probable culprit having beem the igniton module in this situation. I replaced it about 2 years ago when I was having a similar problem, but at that time it was actually a recall issue of the ignition switch needing to be replaced. As stated, I replaced the igntion module then, but didn't apply di-electric grease to the connectors, which is important and if not done cuts the life of the ignitor substantially from what I've read; I believed this cut the life short of the igniter currently, this probably causing the stalling, I guess. I purchased the ignition module aftermarket, at Autozone, as Honda no longer sells it seprately from the distributer, according to the dealership parts person I spoke to. I replaced the ignitor and crimped/tightened the connectors, applied the grease before reassembly and the problem seemed to be resolved. The fuel relay was done at the same time; I probably didn't have to replace it, but figured it was a 60 dollar part that was old and could use replacement anyhow.

However, one of the associated problems, the check engine light with this code, P0420, came back and I can't seem to resolve it at this time. I don't know... perhaps a vacuum leak, exhaust manifold crack/leak is the problem. I'm going to take it to a mechanic to check it out when I get the money, but for now, the car has been running about 2 weeks without problem.

I wish you luck and hope your car issues get worked out.

 

Well as i stated before i forgot to add i have rough idling and also i only happen to stall only in the street so i am assuming that low rpm would cause me to stall so i have been making my car seem like a manual in a street at the red light while reving my car to stop it from stalling!!

 

I agree, the biggest problem I've had with a bad O2 Sensor is lurching while driving in boost... but it depends on your software or if you're tuned at all.