Could somebody do me a favor (98-02 Accord 4-cyl. only)
Can someone who has an accord 1998-2002 (6th generation vehicle) with a 4-cyl. engine do me a favor please to verify an idle issue?
Please do the following steps:
1) start engine and get to normal operating temperatures
2) turn off all accessories including lights, a/c, etc.
3) make sure transmission is in park
4) while engine is running disconnect the idle control valve electrical connector and tell me if the engine surges or rpm's drop to 500
5) re-connect the wire to idle control valve
6) turn off engine
7) reset the check engine light that will come on by simple removing the backup fuse for 9 seconds on passanger side.
8) finished
This procedure will not harm your engine at all. I am simply curious to see what other engines will do. My engine surges (connector disconnected), but my idle is perfect at around 750 rpm in park when connector connected to idle control valve.
This procedure is used when one wants to adjust the base idle speed, but I think it does NOT apply to 6th generation accords because my engine surges.
If this is true, then how do you adjust the base idle speed?
Thanks to all who tries to inform me of this test.
Please do the following steps:
1) start engine and get to normal operating temperatures
2) turn off all accessories including lights, a/c, etc.
3) make sure transmission is in park
4) while engine is running disconnect the idle control valve electrical connector and tell me if the engine surges or rpm's drop to 500
5) re-connect the wire to idle control valve
6) turn off engine
7) reset the check engine light that will come on by simple removing the backup fuse for 9 seconds on passanger side.
8) finished
This procedure will not harm your engine at all. I am simply curious to see what other engines will do. My engine surges (connector disconnected), but my idle is perfect at around 750 rpm in park when connector connected to idle control valve.
This procedure is used when one wants to adjust the base idle speed, but I think it does NOT apply to 6th generation accords because my engine surges.
If this is true, then how do you adjust the base idle speed?
Thanks to all who tries to inform me of this test.
Last edited by Elvis1977; Apr 6, 2009 at 10:15 AM.
obviously elvis has left the building........idle surges ICV is not working like it should when disconnected.
if i remember right it will surge and throw a CEL ... until you erase the CEL the engine will not rev passed a certain rpm ... or in other words it acts like it's hitting it's redline
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Yes your right it WILL throw a CEL, but easy to reset. Are you sure the engine surges when you disconnect the idle control valve electrical connector? Can you run this test on your car?
Turning the idle bleed screw while ICV connector connected does absolutely nothing to the idle.
I'm stumped???
Last edited by Elvis1977; Apr 8, 2009 at 10:53 AM.
Yes I think your right the engine surges when connector is disconnected. So what the hell does the idle screw control???? How do you adjust the idle???????? How do you achieve a base idle speed when you disconnect the IACV???????? The frieking engine surges!!!
Turning the idle bleed screw while ICV connector connected does absolutely nothing to the idle.
I'm stumped???
Turning the idle bleed screw while ICV connector connected does absolutely nothing to the idle.
I'm stumped???
what the fu ck are you tring to do!!!!... you said you have perfect idle with it connected.
dont fu ck around with **** unessessarily.
if you actually HAD an idle problem it has nothing to do with the screw unless you touched it! something else has to be the culprit.
try these steps
plug it back in
line the paint marks back on your idle screw (if you havent fu cked it up too bad)
disconnect your negative battery terminal for 10 seconds
reconnect
close your hood
leave it the HELL alone
-kidfrost
Last edited by KidFrost; Apr 8, 2009 at 05:34 PM.
I suspect this is an attempt to smooth a vibration at idle. In my own experience it doesn't work. You either get more vibration, or the idle is so high, the transmission will not shift out of park. The real solution is to clean the IACV FITV and throttle body, or fix you're worn out engine mounts. One of those is probably the culprit, and not the idle speed.
what the fu ck are you tring to do!!!!... you said you have perfect idle with it connected.
dont fu ck around with **** unessessarily.
if you actually HAD an idle problem it has nothing to do with the screw unless you touched it! something else has to be the culprit.
try these steps
plug it back in
line the paint marks back on your idle screw (if you havent fu cked it up too bad)
disconnect your negative battery terminal for 10 seconds
reconnect
close your hood
leave it the HELL alone
-kidfrost
dont fu ck around with **** unessessarily.
if you actually HAD an idle problem it has nothing to do with the screw unless you touched it! something else has to be the culprit.
try these steps
plug it back in
line the paint marks back on your idle screw (if you havent fu cked it up too bad)
disconnect your negative battery terminal for 10 seconds
reconnect
close your hood
leave it the HELL alone
-kidfrost
I'm not worried about my idle at all. I'm simply trying to understand the reasoning behind this bleed screw on 6th generation vehicles. I have read for other generation accords, you set the base idle by simply disconnectiong the IACV and the RPM will drop (not surge) around 500 rpm and then you can increase or decrease the rpm's by the bleed screw.
According to the haynes manual, it says you CAN adjust the idle but need to disconnect the EVAP purge control solenoid before adjusting screw. This procedure does absolutely nothing to increase or decrease rpm's. So why is the screw actually there for?
I started this thread to make sure the surging idle after IACV connector was disconnected was not just on my car. Others are saying it also occurs. So it is normal for 6th generation honda accords at least.
Yesterday I talked to a Honda dealership foreman about this situation and he agreed with me. He says the IACV is completely controlled by the computer for 98-02 accords. He also could not explain the surging after connector being disconnected.
By the way, I put in a new oem IACV 6 months ago. So I know it works perfectly and my idle is just fine at 750.
Again, you fool, I'm just trying to understand if it is possible to adjust rpm's on my car or not. If not, then why didn't Honda just seal the screw opening area completely like Ford does on some of their vehicles?
Last edited by Elvis1977; Apr 9, 2009 at 07:47 AM.
& weren't bleed screws for old engines that used carburetors anyway? i don't see why a car that is fuel injected and ecu controlled would need it ...
Just for the record, my 98 honda accord 4cyl does the same thing. I need to adjust the idle, which is high, but the screw is all the way in. Disconnecting the evap solenoid does not drop the idle; disconnecting the IACV jumps it up to 2000 and sounds very unhappy, throws a code.
to clarify for anyone reading this tread, back from the dead... the idle setting procedure is the same for the 98-02, F23 accords. if the idle fluctuates or increases when you disconnect the IACV, adjust the idle screw until idle is stabilized and in range. If you can't, begin searching for vacuum leaks.
Elvis1977, if you're still around.. the IACV has a finite range of adjustment of "controlled air leakage" which is how it functions. the idle screw acts as a base or "preset" value that defines the lower range of the "air leak."
hope that's helpful.
Elvis1977, if you're still around.. the IACV has a finite range of adjustment of "controlled air leakage" which is how it functions. the idle screw acts as a base or "preset" value that defines the lower range of the "air leak."
hope that's helpful.
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