where to get a decent replacement clutch?
so the clutch in the S is starting to slip a little and i was just wondering where the cheapest place to get a clutch from is. i would preferably like something that is a little grabbier than stock, but still daily driveable
see if Inline Pro still has their deal on Competition Clutches. I got my clutch and flywheel for $725 shipped. if you're going for 450+whp then you'll need a puck clutch. under 450whp I'd get their stage 3 ceramic disc, smooth as stock
http://www.advancedclutch.com/produc...d_id=2050#2050
I've heard good things about this one. I've been looking into getting it since I'm not looking to break the 450whp mark. Part number is HS1-HDSS (more than one are listed on the page), And from the looks of it you can get it for around the $725 price mark that S2KFTW mentioned
I've heard good things about this one. I've been looking into getting it since I'm not looking to break the 450whp mark. Part number is HS1-HDSS (more than one are listed on the page), And from the looks of it you can get it for around the $725 price mark that S2KFTW mentioned
if you're not going to add a tons more power then I'd go with the CC stage 3 with the kevlar disc. light pedal and smooth engagement but holds 110% over stock.
well here's a break down of your clutch setup and what they do
pucked = grabbier, but engagement is harder to smoothen out
-disc > 6puck > 4puck is from smoothest to notchiest engagement
-sprung vs. unsprung. sprung clutch is the DD choice, unsprung is on/off
pressure plates-the more force it can apply, the harder your clutch will grab but it also affects drivability because a heavy duty pressure plate will clamp down hard. (this control's the "friction point" and how much play you can have before it clamps down and stalls you)
lightweight flywheel - generally the lighter the flywheel, the faster you rev up and down.
now onto clutch composition -
organic- the softest/weakest material for clutches / brakes, but the easiest to use without any warming up or anything.
carbon kevlar- requires warming to an optimal temperature, but once there it should be very good and it'll do its job. the good part about carbon kevlar is that the material is designed to last for a long time, wears very gradually.
ceremetallic- the happy balance between carbon/organic IMO. just as good if not slightly better than carbon in its grabbyness but you're trading off clutch life because ceremetallic will wear out faster than CK.
hope that helped, for my car (papa's) it has a competition setup on it and it is very streetable. I've gone through rush hour traffic without any problems.
pucked = grabbier, but engagement is harder to smoothen out
-disc > 6puck > 4puck is from smoothest to notchiest engagement
-sprung vs. unsprung. sprung clutch is the DD choice, unsprung is on/off
pressure plates-the more force it can apply, the harder your clutch will grab but it also affects drivability because a heavy duty pressure plate will clamp down hard. (this control's the "friction point" and how much play you can have before it clamps down and stalls you)
lightweight flywheel - generally the lighter the flywheel, the faster you rev up and down.
now onto clutch composition -
organic- the softest/weakest material for clutches / brakes, but the easiest to use without any warming up or anything.
carbon kevlar- requires warming to an optimal temperature, but once there it should be very good and it'll do its job. the good part about carbon kevlar is that the material is designed to last for a long time, wears very gradually.
ceremetallic- the happy balance between carbon/organic IMO. just as good if not slightly better than carbon in its grabbyness but you're trading off clutch life because ceremetallic will wear out faster than CK.
hope that helped, for my car (papa's) it has a competition setup on it and it is very streetable. I've gone through rush hour traffic without any problems.
Trending Topics
well here's a break down of your clutch setup and what they do
pucked = grabbier, but engagement is harder to smoothen out
-disc > 6puck > 4puck is from smoothest to notchiest engagement
-sprung vs. unsprung. sprung clutch is the DD choice, unsprung is on/off
pressure plates-the more force it can apply, the harder your clutch will grab but it also affects drivability because a heavy duty pressure plate will clamp down hard. (this control's the "friction point" and how much play you can have before it clamps down and stalls you)
lightweight flywheel - generally the lighter the flywheel, the faster you rev up and down.
now onto clutch composition -
organic- the softest/weakest material for clutches / brakes, but the easiest to use without any warming up or anything.
carbon kevlar- requires warming to an optimal temperature, but once there it should be very good and it'll do its job. the good part about carbon kevlar is that the material is designed to last for a long time, wears very gradually.
ceremetallic- the happy balance between carbon/organic IMO. just as good if not slightly better than carbon in its grabbyness but you're trading off clutch life because ceremetallic will wear out faster than CK.
hope that helped, for my car (papa's) it has a competition setup on it and it is very streetable. I've gone through rush hour traffic without any problems.
pucked = grabbier, but engagement is harder to smoothen out
-disc > 6puck > 4puck is from smoothest to notchiest engagement
-sprung vs. unsprung. sprung clutch is the DD choice, unsprung is on/off
pressure plates-the more force it can apply, the harder your clutch will grab but it also affects drivability because a heavy duty pressure plate will clamp down hard. (this control's the "friction point" and how much play you can have before it clamps down and stalls you)
lightweight flywheel - generally the lighter the flywheel, the faster you rev up and down.
now onto clutch composition -
organic- the softest/weakest material for clutches / brakes, but the easiest to use without any warming up or anything.
carbon kevlar- requires warming to an optimal temperature, but once there it should be very good and it'll do its job. the good part about carbon kevlar is that the material is designed to last for a long time, wears very gradually.
ceremetallic- the happy balance between carbon/organic IMO. just as good if not slightly better than carbon in its grabbyness but you're trading off clutch life because ceremetallic will wear out faster than CK.
hope that helped, for my car (papa's) it has a competition setup on it and it is very streetable. I've gone through rush hour traffic without any problems.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





