Best sway bars for auto-x accord
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From: Single camshafting for now in, N.Y.
Hey guys, looking for some help
I have a 1994 lx accord that I'm about to auto x. right now I have 225/50 16" tires on it on a 16 x 7 rim. I'm currently running omni full track non adjustable coilovers rated at 12k f/10k rear
handles great but the pitch is kinda scary at high speed twisty turns. the car didn't come with a rear bar(ex came with). Is there a nice front rear swaybar combo for this car.
Also looking to run 245/45 tires with some 16x8 rim. any rim packages and offset ideas?
A pic is worth a thousand words.
I have a 1994 lx accord that I'm about to auto x. right now I have 225/50 16" tires on it on a 16 x 7 rim. I'm currently running omni full track non adjustable coilovers rated at 12k f/10k rear
handles great but the pitch is kinda scary at high speed twisty turns. the car didn't come with a rear bar(ex came with). Is there a nice front rear swaybar combo for this car.
Also looking to run 245/45 tires with some 16x8 rim. any rim packages and offset ideas?
A pic is worth a thousand words.
If you havent Autocrossed yet, then skip looking at sway bars, raise the suspension up a bit and go and learn your car before you buy parts that may or may not even be needed. your going to get this basic response from almost everyone.
Joe
Joe
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From: Single camshafting for now in, N.Y.
I understand but right now its d/d with a rod knock so while I put together another engine the suspension will get work. i have take the car to its limits and it is very netural at the limit. Easily correctable during oversteer. It's more inclined to that than pushing. At over 120 the body tends to twich during sharp turns. I am really looking to stabilize the car. Its pretty heavy and i know it needs one just looking for the right company direction
LX front bar (Hollow 22mm) with progress rear bar (Solid 22 mm). The progress rear bar will require drilling 4 holes in the rear subframe. Suspension Techniques rear sway bar is an alright compromise to the progress sway bar, but it is only solid 19mm and the geometry of the bar isn't nearly as stiff in design as the Progress.
Having said that, just go out there and drive. You'll need to raise the car up a good bit as well. What class are you planning on running in?
BTW, where are you going "120 on sharp twisty roads?".......
Having said that, just go out there and drive. You'll need to raise the car up a good bit as well. What class are you planning on running in?
BTW, where are you going "120 on sharp twisty roads?".......
try raising your car and getting lower profile tires. the lower profile tires will help out a little for that twitchy feeling you get cause your side walls are flexing/rolling, and i hope your not doing that (going 120 on winding roads) with your kid in the back seat?
but, like everyone says, just go as you are now. learn to drive your car better.
but, like everyone says, just go as you are now. learn to drive your car better.
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From: Single camshafting for now in, N.Y.
NO not with my lovely daughter.....sign
I usally move around upstate so I'm on the taconic parkway and i 84 and i684 and i87.(sharp being overemphsized) all wide open upstate hudson valley but only in the early am.
thinking about the sidewall, should raising air pressure in the rear a couple of psi help. I run thru potholes so bigger rims with slimmer sidewalls wouldn't last the summer .
the car oversteers already so maybe the Suspension Techniques rear sway bar would be good
I usally move around upstate so I'm on the taconic parkway and i 84 and i684 and i87.(sharp being overemphsized) all wide open upstate hudson valley but only in the early am.
thinking about the sidewall, should raising air pressure in the rear a couple of psi help. I run thru potholes so bigger rims with slimmer sidewalls wouldn't last the summer .
the car oversteers already so maybe the Suspension Techniques rear sway bar would be good
Last edited by alterdcreations; Apr 1, 2009 at 06:49 PM.
im not saying getting bigger rims, just lower profile tires. the more air will probably make it even more squirrly. if it already oversteers, getting a rear bar will make it worse, unless you get a bigger front bar to compesate.
oh, and do check your alignment
oh, and do check your alignment
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From: Single camshafting for now in, N.Y.
The car isn't squirrly as in tires lose, its twitchy like un settling. When it breaks loose its very predictable. The tires I run have a max rated pressure of 51 psi. Right now its at 34 psi so airing it up should get rid of the twitch because the sidewalls will not flex as much but the ride will me much more harsh.
Is their a company that make a front and rear set of bars that is good or proven? I doubt the car will see track slicks so the limit of good all season 245 width tires.
Also I had the car aligned when the wheels went on and before the suspention went on and turned out I had a bent upper control arm...car drove straight but it was bent. replaced that and it pulled the passenger wheel forward alittle and the car tracks much better.
Is their a company that make a front and rear set of bars that is good or proven? I doubt the car will see track slicks so the limit of good all season 245 width tires.
Also I had the car aligned when the wheels went on and before the suspention went on and turned out I had a bent upper control arm...car drove straight but it was bent. replaced that and it pulled the passenger wheel forward alittle and the car tracks much better.
I would keep driving the car as is, with those spring rates you will be able to learn a lot. I had the same spring rates with no front bar and a ST rear bar, and decided to double the rear spring due to push. So I have trouble believing your car is over steering now.
Im unsure of if you have realigned the car since you fixed the control arm, that is a must. I would also recommend raising the car up, and have it realigned afterwards. You may think the bigger tire is faster, but a smaller o.d. will give much better acceleration.
Im unsure of if you have realigned the car since you fixed the control arm, that is a must. I would also recommend raising the car up, and have it realigned afterwards. You may think the bigger tire is faster, but a smaller o.d. will give much better acceleration.
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From: Single camshafting for now in, N.Y.
I haven't realigned it yet but it doesn't pull. When I first put on the suspension I sung the spring to the perch but i didnt preload. The car sank to low during dips so I preloaded the springs 1 1/2" all around and the car is much more solid. It really doesn't bottom out at all in the front and the rear hasn't bottomed out at all yet. I know I should raise the car but I wont because I like it this way. And the car hasen't pushed. only when i check up on a high speed corner it starts to rotate but very nuteral. how wide were your tires?
I am not really worried about acceleration as much as i am with bending rims.
I am not really worried about acceleration as much as i am with bending rims.
Last edited by alterdcreations; Apr 7, 2009 at 03:18 AM.
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