Why is my primer sanding off so easily?
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From: DICKIES & FLIP FLOPS, FL
So I just begun a little paint project for my engine bay. I have NEVER done body work before and don't plan to ever do it again. I'm having a litlle problem (at least I think it's a problem) with the primer and wanted to see if anyone could offer advice.
I decided to use the Evercoat featherfill becasue it lays on really thick and reviews rated it very user freindly. Had it mixed up really well before I left the paint shop and right before I was about to spray I added the activator and mixed it again really well.
I was using a 13 gallon 4hp campbell hausfeld compressor with the Harbor freight gun set listed below. Yeah I know those guns suck but I'm not about to spend over $150 bucks for a gun I'll never use again. Got it on sale for $40 bucks.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94572
Anyway I used the 1.8 tip that comes with the kit and sprayed at 35psi just like the instructions said. Did three coats in 15 minute intervals, once again following instructions.
It can out pretty well so I let it dry for 24hrs. Went out to sand it tonight with 220grit wet/dry paper and it started cutting it back down to metal. Went with 400 grit and it cut it just as much. I'm a little confused since evercoat says to start with 220 then go to 320 and them 400.
So as you read I've done research and followed the instructions to a tee. What the hell did I do wrong? Is it supposed to be like this?
Also after the activator is added how long is the "life" of the primer?
Your help is greatly apprciated.
I decided to use the Evercoat featherfill becasue it lays on really thick and reviews rated it very user freindly. Had it mixed up really well before I left the paint shop and right before I was about to spray I added the activator and mixed it again really well.
I was using a 13 gallon 4hp campbell hausfeld compressor with the Harbor freight gun set listed below. Yeah I know those guns suck but I'm not about to spend over $150 bucks for a gun I'll never use again. Got it on sale for $40 bucks.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94572
Anyway I used the 1.8 tip that comes with the kit and sprayed at 35psi just like the instructions said. Did three coats in 15 minute intervals, once again following instructions.
It can out pretty well so I let it dry for 24hrs. Went out to sand it tonight with 220grit wet/dry paper and it started cutting it back down to metal. Went with 400 grit and it cut it just as much. I'm a little confused since evercoat says to start with 220 then go to 320 and them 400.
So as you read I've done research and followed the instructions to a tee. What the hell did I do wrong? Is it supposed to be like this?
Also after the activator is added how long is the "life" of the primer?
Your help is greatly apprciated.
did u wash and degrease your engine bay be4 starting? did you do any sanding be4 applying? i havent sprayed an engine bay yet but i heard if your engine bay is still original... all you have to do is wash and degrease the engine bay and then u can spray... if not, you should add a second step and sand too be4 u spray
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: DICKIES & FLIP FLOPS, FL
The car had a COUPLE layers of shitty paint in the bay so I clean and degreased it real well and took most of it down to bare metal with 40 grit. Cleaned it up with some 80 grit and washed it again with mild soap and water. I sprayed it after that.
I talked to my paint guy today he he said I may have just spryed it way to thin.
I talked to my paint guy today he he said I may have just spryed it way to thin.
Yeah, it sounds like you prepped it really well. Might be to thin like he said, but it's hard to say without pictures...
What does the edge look like where it goes from primer to metal? A smooth transition or choppy and rough?
What does the edge look like where it goes from primer to metal? A smooth transition or choppy and rough?
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if its a smooth transition its def to thin, if it looked torn or jagged I would bet the culprit to be poor adhesion. You need to lay that stuff on really thick, I would suggest using PPG Shopline 2k primer. Spray on 2-3 heavy coats and you wont be sanding it down that fast like you did the other stuff.
^^^ agreed. i use all of ppgs shopline products as long as im not trying to blend. then i go into their higher grade stuff. but for primer, thats irrelevant.
I only seen polyester primers applied on fiberglass bumpers to be straighten out.And or wavy metal also.Your Scenario is different Chef,I believe I told you on the phone to use a 2k primer.I'd go with Rm Dp26 powefill but you said you're on a budget.3 Wet coats of a 2k primer like Nason 2k works great.Although people skip the step that you should epoxy the metal and throw the primer on top.A wet on wet process.Epoxys are more my thing.Etching primers can trap moisture between the 2k primer and result in failure down the road if not used correctly.I hope you're not going to spray the bay with that gun lol.1.8 tip
Will come out like ****.Good luck Chef.
Will come out like ****.Good luck Chef.
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: DICKIES & FLIP FLOPS, FL
Thanks alot guys for all your help. I still have more of that primer so I will be putting on another 1 or 2 THICK coats. Since I already have it I might as well use it.
Oh and Joe, I'll be using that same gun but with a 1.3 point tip. Like I said before I really don't see the point buying a top line gun when this is the only time I'll use it.
Thnaks again and wish me luck.
Oh and Joe, I'll be using that same gun but with a 1.3 point tip. Like I said before I really don't see the point buying a top line gun when this is the only time I'll use it.
Thnaks again and wish me luck.
Thanks alot guys for all your help. I still have more of that primer so I will be putting on another 1 or 2 THICK coats. Since I already have it I might as well use it.
Oh and Joe, I'll be using that same gun but with a 1.3 point tip. Like I said before I really don't see the point buying a top line gun when this is the only time I'll use it.
Thnaks again and wish me luck.
Oh and Joe, I'll be using that same gun but with a 1.3 point tip. Like I said before I really don't see the point buying a top line gun when this is the only time I'll use it.
Thnaks again and wish me luck.
I told you i'd shoot the bay with my Sata 3000,But I'am booked up doing another car.The paint won't atomize correctly with that gun.I was trying to tell you that.
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