Okay, the motor in my lude just hit the 205k mile mark and decided it was ready to die, so its gotta rodda knockin and i've found an f20b with only 40k on it for 690 bucks. Now, rather than buy an obd1 h22 for WAY less than the ob2 and have worry about buying a harness converter or doing it myself and having a nightmare, i could do the f20b swap cause it's already ob2, and it will drop right in, or so i'm told.

and i'm pretty sure the H22A and the F20B are pretty much the same motor, only the f series destroked with its higher compression and higher revving, and just a few less lb/ft of torque


But will i need a different ecu and will the wiring harness match up and will an h22 header fit on an f20b head?

if there is anything else i dont know or need to know let me know

 

You're probably buying an automatic version F20B for that price; it only has 180HP. It lacks the bigger throttle body and Type-S cams that the manual version has. Wiring should be the same, transmission and clutch will bolt right up, same with the header.

 

thanks man, i couldnt find any info involving this swap into a 5th gen.

the engine i'm looking at is on jdmtigerjapanese.com and it says 200hp. You think i'm getting ripped?

 

I hope you are not getting ripped because I just ordered two of the f20b's with Tiger yesturday. I did notice that they are WAAAAAAYYYYYY cheaper at tiger than any other place that I called in Canada. I also know for a fact that the motors are from automatic cars. Is it just the cams and throttle body that changes? because I already have a 68mm throttle body and am going to get an aftermarket intake manifold for it.

 

i heard you can also make more power on the f20 by slapping on an h22 intake manifold because the runners and the plenum are different.

not sure if thats true.

 

Intake is the same F20B to H22. The EuroR and Skunk2 can be fitted to the F20B for a few ponies. An aftermarket throttle body will make some of the power back. A set of Type-S cams & valvesprings pop up on eBay from time to time, or you could just go with Pro1's. Compression is the same, the head is otherwise the same, and the H22 flywheel will work with the F20B.

Confirm which engine you're getting. The manual transmission versions would likely come with the T2T4 transmission, for simplicity's sake. I doubt an importer would sell them seperate. It's going to be the automatic version.

 

Thanks for the info, alot of worries are getting cleared up.

well, i had planned on doing an all motor build with a stock bottom end and a built head with stage two cams, dual valve springs, ti retainers and tuning it with an apexi afc neo, so its not that big an issue.

 

I'm not positive, but I think they might be different wiring harnesses.

 

I hope not, seeing as how this swap doesnt seem to be too common for a 5th gen.

anyone heard of it done in a 5th gen?

 

I live in toronto and honestly tiger is THE WORST place to buy a motor from. Ive been into theyre warehouse many of times and they dont take care of thier stock. they're motors are just piled upon eachother and they drop a motor off the forklift, 5 feet up onto the ground about every half hour cuz theyre so clumsy..just trying to look out for you guys on here!

 

Thats good to know after I just purchased two of these motors. But I personaly have seen and driven one that came from there about 2 months ago and it has absolutely no problems. They do have a 30 day warranty though so we will see what happens. Does anyone know what the safe rev limit is for the stock valvetrain on a F20b? I am actually doing a h2b setup in my hatch. QSD is not answering so far so lets see what happens with that.

 

remember NSU.FL, that warranty is only valid if you have the install done by a certified mechanic. They'll ask you, and if you say you and some buddies did it, they'll **** you and say they wont cover it. Make sure you have the papers to prove it too.

People get ripped by wholesalers this way, far too often. i'd compression test it and take a peek from under the oil pan before you start to put it in.

 

Why would it be? You need the torque in a car that weighs 3000lbs. An H22 or H23a would be much better suited for the BB chassis. The only thing this motor has going for it is that it's cheap.

 

I'm thinking about dropping one into my Prelude as well.

It depends, I could get a H22A4 for $1300 complete from a wreck, but who knows what ricer had that **** before, plus it's probably got miles on on it. Or I can get a F20B and 4G H22 tranny for $1080, then get axles seperately. I get closer gears since its a 4G trans, and that other **** like belts, i'd have to replace anyway.

I'd do it for the fact that the motor's been in a granny's Accord as opposed to someone's Lude who obviously has issues if he wrecked. Plus a startup warrany.

Then again, Tiger has H22A, H23A and F20B longblock all for the same price. I PERSONALLY will skip H22A, because its from a car more likely to get beat on. I dont know what the H23A redline is, but its pobably rediculously low for a DOHC VTEC.

 

yeah thats my concern is the redline. but the torque on the other hand, is quite appealing for a motor of that price.

 

if you want torque, get the H23A.

 

My two motors will be in tomorrow. Im am putting H22A cams in one of them right off the bat with a S2 intake. Lets see what it does.

 

The H22A4 is OBD2a while the F20B is OBD2b, so there will be wiring differences.

IMO the things the F20B have going for it is the iron lined stock sleeves and the stout/beef bottom end. Apparently, this motor was the research motor for the F20C.