Hey guys,
I'm in a process of doing a stealth install on my car and pretty much doing exactly what some of the GURUs are teaching on their threads. Anyways some questions
1. I notice that the backup battery is ONLY connect to the main brain and NOTHING else, especially not the relays. So when thieves disconnect the battery, how would that protect the car since the relay DON't function anyways...
2. I was thinking if its a good idea to hook up ALL the relays to another set of backup battery so when they disconnect the main bat, the relays will STILL work.

Thanks

 

Not needed, the theif still has to power the car to start it. If the alarm is installed correctly. It does not matter if they pull power because the alarm is still going off. And when the power comes back on line the kill switches will do there job. You should have a main relay kill.

 

wrx-killer-Sti-eater thanks for the tips. Just a thought, wouldn't it be better if we hook up let say 1 more backup bat and hook a piezo siren/main siren to it? So, if they pull the main bat and trying to tow the car, it would be ALOT harder not to attract some kind of attention?

I mean if their goal is to TOW the car, then disconnect the bat and just tow thats too easy for them. If we can hook up that back up bat and hide it to power the siren(s) then that be much harder for them I would think. Please give more inputs thanks

 

That is the whole purpose of the backup battery...

 

Right I understand, but I want to ask how would I wire up 2 or more backup batteries and function correctly. I want to wire one for just the main brain and one for all the relays and the pienzo siren. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

You are wasting money and space. The one back up battery will power the alarm, mini siren, siren in the fender or were ever you locate it.

Or just go to your local electrical store and get a bigger battery.

 

Ok awesome thanks. I read on the instruction that I shouldn't hook up anything other than the brain. Thanks

 

What is meant, " I shouldn't hook up anything other than the brain" is to get the most "run time" from the back-up batt. is to not connect the cars park light off the alarm, use the park light out put to control a relay for the park lights, that way if power is cut the back-up batt. will still power everything except the park lights adding a lot more alarming time, [park lights draw a lot of power]. 94

 

^ Hey that's a good idea. So use the alarm's parking lights + output to 86, ground 85, 30 to 12v in car, 87A to + parking light wire in car.

How much current do alarms/sirens draw when set off anyway?

What are your opinions on back up batteries? It seems to me they either do not last long or have a somewhat high failure rate... I have seen a few that quit after so long, I guess its the nature of a rechargeable battery?

 

Awesome input. Anyways, today i finished mounting all the alarm sensors and pretty much got all the wires ready to be hooked up to the brain. I got a question tho, I want to do auto engine start on my car but I also want to have fuel and clutch and ecu etc (I have already prepared them) They SHOULD be hooked up to "neg. output when armed" right? Now how would I wire it so the kill switch relay wont activate when it starts. Thanks (by the way I did buy the manual bypass kit so its safe no worries).

PS. I have the crimestopper cs-2014 if that helps clear more things up. Here is link to the manual scroll down to page 31 to see all the wiring diagram. Help would be appreciated. thanks

http://www.crimestopper.com/techweb/...option_ins.pdf

 

Also, I got another question, (sorry if its not that bright of a question) why would a remote start alarm would make it easier for the car to be stolen? I mean if all the ignition wires are WELL hidden, how would it be any easier. All the relay and kill relays are still installed the same way, I just dont see how it, easier. Am I missing somehting here? Thanks

 

Most are installed right at the harness connection point, and even have pre-spliced and colored ignition wires ready to go (just twist together and go). This would also lead a 12 gauge trail to the alarm brain in most cases. It'd also make it difficult to have a functional kill switch, as fuel/ignition/main relay kill would prevent remote start from working as well, thus a person would either not install a redundant kill switch or never engage it.

Also, would this be a decent battery to replace DEI's battery? http://tiny.cc/MRiO9

 

Hmm that is one nice backup batt. The only thing Im concern is how would I wire that up so it would charge when not in use and how would it power the alarm when the main battery is disconnected? It doenst seem to come with any module like the DEI batt did.


Also, does anyone know which wire under the dash is used to power BOTH headlights? My car is a 00 civic Si and I want to hook up the headlights to the alarm but can't find and dont know which wire is for the headlights. Only, I could only find 2 different wire controlling each headlights... which is not what Im looking for. Thanks

 

bump for some help

 

you still need the back up battery brain to trigger the alarm when the main car battery is unpluged.

 

But that particular battery would otherwise be fine for splicing into DEI's module? I've never looked at the stampings on the DEI one to see what exactly it is.