Hello i was just thinking the other day i built a LS vtec and i used a honda type R piston and the ls block does not have oil squirters and should I worry about that?

 

Don't worry about it. I pulled the head off of my 2.1 liter LS/VTEC recently, and the cylinders look pristine. This after lots of abuse. Oil squirters are over rated.

 

oh okay cool a buddy was tell me that the stock honda pistons need those oil squirters but the after market does not need them

 

IMO its a great feature to have, but its not absolutely necessary for DD. If I were roadracing for lengthly durations with a motor then I wouldnt mind opting to use a B18C block with squiters.

LS/VTEC nay sayers might try to emphasize the importants of these because they help cool the piston by spraying oil on it from underneath, however some engine builders opt not to use the squirters. IMO, its application dependant. Endyn offers squirter plug kits, if oil pressure to the head and bottom end is critical.

 

what is IMO mean?

 

In my opinion

 

yeah i like what you have to say i am still learning about honda motors and i really like all motor more then turbos...

 

I like both for different aspects. My first car was turbocharged, but I choose the All Motor route with my LS/V for simplicity and cost. I'd like to build a turbo B-series someday, but not before Im finished critiquing my current all motor setup.

 

oh God all motor is cheaper and simple that is why i like it

 

NA can get pretty expensive when you get down to making some serious power.
If this is your first build I'd keep it simple, just my $.02

 

yeah I got a del sol that came with a B16 from the factory and then i built a really good ls vtec but the machine shop that press out the ls pistons and pressed in the b16 pistons did not do it right so the wrist pin 3 of the 4 came loose and dug into the cylinder. so that did not end well...lol but it was hard to come back from that but i found a LS block with USDM type R pistons already on the ls rods and no problems yet...

 

I got another LS block in my garage, so I may use it for another 81mm or perhaps just have it sleeved for an 84mm build. Cant decide yet, but if the money permits I'll probably go for more displacement. Turbo or no turbo.

 

Do you have trouble with like 84 or like 85 mm bore with the valves not lining up right...you know what i mean?

 

Aftermarket pistons made for the B20's come with adiquate valve relief placement generally if your buying them for the B20 VTEC application. OEM B20B or Z pistons might have P2V contact if using a PR3 or P72 head depending on the cams, timing, etc.

 

yeah when i was choosing the cams i wanted to use i put in a full ferrea valve tran. But i did some research and i really don't understand all about degreeing cams so i went with buddy club spec 3's and they are pretty mild so i would not have to adjust the cam timing

 

Degreeing cams is a good practice with most any aftermarket cam IMO. Theirs threads in the FAQ's that show you what to do to chart your V2V & P2V clearances that you foresee tuning for.

 

yeah i have seen those charts and i get lost to be honest with you but i mean i am trying to understand lol

 

Essentially your checking your maxium amount of camtiming advance, retard, and amount of overlap (unless not advised by cam manufacturer) that you foresee using which wont cause V2V or P2V contact, or come beyond a safe margin of tolerence when considering valvetrain speeds at high rpms.

 

oh okay i see they are trying to find how long they can keep the valves open with out contacting the piston or the other valve?

 

Correct, however some manufacturers advise that you degree your cams apon installation (like Sk2 Pro series) because their ground with an offset centerline out of the box. But if your going with a radical cam such as the Pro series, then you've probably already done other preparations to your engine like milling/decking of the head & or block (if rebuilding) which would also so facilitate the need to degree your cams anyhow.

 

yeah i have seen them use clay to actually test it...but degree the cam will not make the valve open longer but it just makes it open early or later i think i am on to something here...lol

 

Opening the valves "longer" is what the cam duration does. Advancing or Retarding mearly changes the sequence of valve timing in relation to the crank posistion. The overlap deals with the amount of seperation between the IN & EX cam centerlines (point of maximum valve lift) as well as the valve timing sequence in relation to the crank posistion.


The LCA is also another reference for the overlap

 

okay i see you want to have the greatest amount of overlap but with out making contact and with higher lift cams the overlap changes because the graph lines change...

 

No the idea isnt necessarily to have the most overlap, but some applications like supercharging require broad separation (least overlap) compared to NA valve events. Most boost orriented cams produced probably have the overlap serparation ground into the cams at (0,0) no Adv/Rtd.

If your tuning your powerband you can usually advance the camtiming to make your torque peak sooner in the powerband, where as retarding the camtiming will usually shift your torque peak later in the powerband.

Of course this is all dependant on how well your other supporting mods react to these changes too.

 

yeah that makes sense because my buddy got adjustable cam gears for his stock GSR and advance the cams and got great low-end torque but not as good top end power