LS-Vtec or LS-T
Im pretty new to this but had my dc for a while. And im not sure if this should go here but i wanted to know which is better, cheaper, and more reliable. I have lots of time so time isnt a problem or difficulty just money wise and power wise. I wanted to know if LS b18b1 turbo with just a ebay kit on like 12 psi or a b16 head itr internals and stock block? also i have a buddy club spec 2 exhaust and b16 tranny. B18b1 thanks!
Anything is possible just get a good tune , don't drive it like an idiot and blow your motor.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/
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the ls/vtec can be even more unreliable than the turbo... The ls block doesnt have the oil squirters in the bottom of the block which is why its been known to be unreliable. Without good internals it wont last. Both are going to take a decent amount of money to make reliable. reliable-fast-cheap, pick two...
I say go turbo also. But don't just settle for an ebay kit. Save and get a good turbo kit or piece it together. This is why Trust/Greddy filed for bankruptcy. People buying cheap turbo kits that have no R&D, leaving the companies that invest the time to R&D for the sake of a quality product to go in our cars to lose business and disappear.
the turbo will be a alot faster then a V-tech and if u looking for a cheap way to build is turbo gain u the most for your money but the bad thing is alot of money at once so its best to save and go for the turbo cuz a build Vtech NA will cost u all more
I would go with an ls-t build too, the lsvtec requires too much for too less when compared to an ls-t, for you to get some nice numbers out of an lsv you need,better pistons,an lsv kit,machining,tuning and a better short gear box than your original ls and all for what? a still unrealible 200whp at best? why? get an peakboost kit and murder those v8's out there buddy! and if the motor dies rebuild it stronger! the feel of tq along with hp and boost with a long gear box like the ls will impress you trust me!
x6ish lol, there is nothing cheap about going all motor. Money and power-wise turbo is the way to go. Certain people, including me, love all motor builds and if you wanna do it I salute you, but turbo is the way to go when it comes to power-to-money ratio. As long as the engine is healthy, the LS is a good engine to turbo. Check out homemadeturbo.com
As far as the builds you mentioned go, since you want 12 psi from the turbo, the LSV will be more reliable IF done right. Since I'm gonna assume both motors will be tuned, the only problem I see with the ebay kit is a crack-prone manifold and a cheap turbo, neither will ruin the engine.
I can see someone asking whether they should go LS-VTEC or Turbo if the turbo would be kept at like 6 psi, but obviously you want more power than a simple LS-V build will provide. Turbo it, tune it right, and upgrade from the egay components when you can afford it. Or just piece together your own turbo kit to start with.
In 2000 I was running a Revhard stage 2 t3/t4 kit at around 10 psi in my 92 GS, stock internals, and I loved it. All I had was a FPR cuz at the time I didn't know any better and it ran like a champ. I had it on for a year and when I totalled the car
, leakdown was still at like 10-14% when I parted it out.
I'll stop rambling on now, it's 5:45 and I'm still up
As far as the builds you mentioned go, since you want 12 psi from the turbo, the LSV will be more reliable IF done right. Since I'm gonna assume both motors will be tuned, the only problem I see with the ebay kit is a crack-prone manifold and a cheap turbo, neither will ruin the engine.
I can see someone asking whether they should go LS-VTEC or Turbo if the turbo would be kept at like 6 psi, but obviously you want more power than a simple LS-V build will provide. Turbo it, tune it right, and upgrade from the egay components when you can afford it. Or just piece together your own turbo kit to start with.
In 2000 I was running a Revhard stage 2 t3/t4 kit at around 10 psi in my 92 GS, stock internals, and I loved it. All I had was a FPR cuz at the time I didn't know any better and it ran like a champ. I had it on for a year and when I totalled the car
, leakdown was still at like 10-14% when I parted it out.I'll stop rambling on now, it's 5:45 and I'm still up
Reliability as far as DD purposes can easily be achieved through a tune... I've seen stock block LS run 14psi safe all day everyday brah with no complications just off a very conservative tune... Put out great HP/TQ number and was even better on gas...
ahhh thanks for everything guys you guys really help me ill update on my car soon jdm front end grand prix white on some dr20s and i just turned 16 on feb got the car bone stock in the summer of last year!
I don't mean to shoot you down but both will probably be unreliable. There is a threat somewhere on here showing how E-bay kits are so poorly made. And Ls-Vtec can be great but it will most likely be unreliable because of it being a stock block. The rod bolts are one of the biggest weaknesses of the Ls block.
i was in the same situation as you, i had everything for LSVtec, and i had everything for a turbo setup
i decided that i didnt want to take my stock 120k LS motor past 8k with 12psi making 300+wheel
it's not going to last very long at all^
i have a real precision t3/t4,real manifold, real downpipe, ebay intercooler (efficiency rates have been proven to be about equal), ebay wastegate (im only running 7psi). And it all cost me under 1200$ , including injectors n boost gauge
i put on a new oem headgasket, installed arp headstuds, and everything on my car is brand new maitenence-wise, new gaskets, everything
a 250hp turbo b18b is generally to be more reliable than an LSVtec setup, or a stock lsvtec setup
like everyone else has stated, It's all in the tune. hope this helps
i decided that i didnt want to take my stock 120k LS motor past 8k with 12psi making 300+wheel
it's not going to last very long at all^
i have a real precision t3/t4,real manifold, real downpipe, ebay intercooler (efficiency rates have been proven to be about equal), ebay wastegate (im only running 7psi). And it all cost me under 1200$ , including injectors n boost gauge
i put on a new oem headgasket, installed arp headstuds, and everything on my car is brand new maitenence-wise, new gaskets, everything
a 250hp turbo b18b is generally to be more reliable than an LSVtec setup, or a stock lsvtec setup
like everyone else has stated, It's all in the tune. hope this helps
[QUOTE=turboLShatchupinmd;37926153]you are going to make more power going ls-vtec.[/QU
WTF? You'll get like what 170 or 180. But with boost you looking over 200++ with a good tune. Come on dont bust out ls/vtec will pull a ls-t. Get your imformation straght.
WTF? You'll get like what 170 or 180. But with boost you looking over 200++ with a good tune. Come on dont bust out ls/vtec will pull a ls-t. Get your imformation straght.


