Well i have a D16Z6 and plan on keeping it what i want to do is to put in ARP rod bolts and head studs and boost a meager 8psi i would like to keep the internals stock if i can.
what i want to know is what manifold do i use to keep A/C and P/S any other technical info is welcome too or tips- thanks

 

Just leave the stock rod bolts...

 

i think you can use a HF manifold from an EF this should allow A/C and P/S to be retained and get a eclipse/talon turbo 14b/16g and boost 10psi on it. Z6's are very reliable engines granted you get it tuned once the turbo is on. also i would hope you are going intercooled and not just from the turbo to the intake.

arp headstuds is what you want. rod bolts wont matter on low boost to save you money. you should also know that you will need bigger injectors in which blue top 450's from a talon/eclipse/laser will be sufficient for your setup, and atleast a 195 lph fuel pump would be in your best interest. these are all things i started with and my brother started with. i'm now a built bottom end d16y8, but my brother is still stock internals y8 which people claim the d16y8 is the worst sohc to build on account of it's oiling system, but so far we have no problems.

get the stuff i told you and get it tuned and you will be problem free for the most part

 

do i really need bigger injectors for 8psi i know a guy who has run stock internals on a chipped phearable ECU on 7psi for 2years with no problems also stock injectors and fuel pump

and how do i bolt a turbo to a CRX HF manifold? or is it not bolt on

and yes its going to be intercooled i also have JDM fogs are they going to be in the way??

 

well unless you plan on using a FMU, you need bigger injectors to make good power, most honda injectors are only in the mid 200cc's and you will run lean with not enough fuel. trust me i've done it, i was just like you 3 years ago, running a stock fuel system then i met a dude that tunes cars in my area one nite and from did everything he told me to before i got it tuned and could not believe the difference.

an HF manifold came off an older dseries so it will bolt to your head, plus i'm not positive, but i'm almost certain the HF uses a square flange setup rather than a donut gasket or goofy shaped flanged. the HF flange is similar to the dsm turbos. or you could go the ebay route though the are crappy manifolds but they work and the are cheap.

i'm not sure about the fog lights because i don't know what body style your car is, i assume its a 92-95 EG. i do know that i bought a set of JDM fog lights for my EK and my IC piping is in the way

 

Sir, you're a bit off base. He might be able to run an HF with a/c & p/s, but likely have to chop off the turbo's inlet, leaving no room for a filter. I had to make an adapter to mount my HF setup with the inlet on the pass. side. The flange itself it an odd "H" like the Honda logo; certian companies make adapters for them to various turbos.

A manifold that is both A/C and P/S compatable is a tough sell, especially on a budget. Your best bet is to get an ebay cast log, along with a smaller t3 turbo. The problem is most downpipes need to be custom made for it, since the majority are made for non-A/C setups (and the ebay dp's suck).

 

thanks for clearing that up for me, i've never used an HF manifold but have heard of people using them back when it was tough and expensive to get a manifold made for a honda. i never wanted to keep a/c so i have alot better options at buying a manifold. i ran the ebay ones for two years but now i've gone ahead and spent some money on a quality manifold which is made by another reputable honda tech member.

i did however get to keep p/s even with the manifolds i've used, but i recently removed it to gain that tighter steering feel

 

well i got my hands on a HF manifold for cheap

so i just need a custom downpipe to clear my A/C them can i still use this HF manifold with an adapter plate and who makes it

oh and its a 94 EJ1 (ex coupe) Im trying to keep all my factory options along with the ones ive added

i would have just bought a JR supercharger but i cant find one anymore

 

bump for info i found an adapter plate for the DSM T-25 turbo will this one be a reliable turbo for my 7-8 psi

 

you sure its a dsm turbo because usually they are known to most of us as 14b's, 16g's, they also use a bigger one yet found on evo's but i'm not sure what they are called.

if its a dsm turbo the compressor housing will have TD05H or something of that nature on the side of it

if its a T-25 could it possibly be from a nissan

either way, 7-8 psi is easily attainable on just about any turbo, it just depends how much power you want to make, remember its not how much boost you can run its how efficent the turbo is at making the power and how the engine is at using it. the bigger the turbo, the more efficent it is. i've seen people running 10-15 psi on a small turbo such as a dsm turbo that make less power than what i was making a 1 1/2 year ago with my t04e on 8psi

for starters its a decent way to go, you will have great spool time which results in power at lower rpms

 

I dont have the turbo yet all i found was the adapter plate im going with the 14B turbo from a 1G eclipse talon laser im just trying to get a parts list together

i would like to be around 190-210 ish for power is that an easily reached output on 8 psi

 

T-25 came off of 2g eclipse/talon.its a good thing too cause it runs off of a internal wastgate at 8 psi so you should be fine with 450cc and a chipped p28. the 14b is better cause its bigger,had it on my d16z6 until i upgraded my motor and turbo but if it a budget built a 14b or t25 should be good.190-210 might take a little more then 8 psi might want to get a boost controller if you want to reach your goal.

 

could a Skunk2 manifold help any at all was planning on getting one too
450cc injectors like Dsm injectors? blue tops i think?

 

save your money at 200 hp a stock intake is fine,better to spend money on a good engine management system

 

Chrome software is more than enough for 200hp plus you use your factory ecu since its OBD 1 they will just put a chip in it and tune it. Its relatively cheap compared to companies like Hondata. You will however if you want Dyno tuned it will cost you more money.

I'm street tuned on Chrome Gold built bottom end on 15 current psi on alot of junk ebay parts and i'm making close to 300 whp now. Since its not dynoed, i don't have actual numbers, but i'm running a common setup, most forced induction d series people use so i'm estimating my power output.

this is just something for you to think about before spending lots of money to reach 200 whp, like same ol Steve said, a stock intake is fine

 

actually I should have said spend the money on some dyno time and a GOOD tune