As some of you may recall, my father's old stock-sleeve 89x85mm B20VTEC suffered what seemed to be a rod-end failure at the final track day of the 2008 season back in early November.

Since then, the car had a stock-block B17 in it, simply to get the car drive-able, with plans to build a new motor over the winter break; something sleeved, something with aftermarket rods, and something larger.

Then, in mid-December, a deal came our way. A local gentleman had purchased a 95mm-stroked engine setup built by a shop in Florida a couple years back, and was used as an all motor drag engine. He fell on some rough times, and decided to part out the setup, and needed a running car.

Long-story-short, we acquired the block for a fairly modest price, and inspected what we could. (Walls looked great considering the stroke, and bearings were in great shape.) That said, we decided not to pull everything in the bottom end apart, and simply stick the head from the old setup on the block, and go from there.

The setup consists of:

Sleeved B20Z block
84mm Wiseco 13:1 pistons
Pauter rods
95mm Eagle crank

B16 head (with hand-port, home-grown. :p)
UGR Flat valves
UGR valvesprings/retainers
Brian Crower Stage 3's
Victor X manifold
Big-tube Tri-Y header

Here are the results from today's tuning session.


And here is a comparison between the last tuning session of the season (right before the track) and today's on the new setup.


As you can see, on this setup, power is plentiful everywhere compared to the old 89x85mm setup, with the exception of way-way uptop (8,500 to 8,800 RPM), which sounds about right, given the same cams were used, only difference being a changed to longer stroke/more compression on this new setup.

We were quite pleased with the torque production (171wtq compared to the previous 158wtq), but I suppose we were a bit hopeful and over-zealous thinking the torque curve would keep carrying into the nether-regions of the rev range like the old engine. LOL.

For ***** and giggles, we decided to close the exhaust cutout and check out the power production.


This is through a 2.3" Tanabe Hyper Medallion exhaust. I accidentally deleted the set of run files after this one with full pulls with a closed exhaust, and it ended up making 210whp through the exhaust, with the funniest torque curve in the world.

Also, I would like to note that any movement of the cam gears from 0,0 resulted in losses.

The only bad thing about this whole project is, that since we trusted someone else's work we did not re-ring the engine. Compression and leakdown tests show nothing but stellar results, but the engine smokes a decent amount. We are assuming the oil control rings are damaged, or stuck, so we may be pulling the shortblock right back apart, unfortunately.

Lesson learned, don't trust another builder's work.

This is what we consider the beginning of this project. Once we figure out what we would like to do with the shortblock, we will most-likely make the jump to Pro3+'s, in an attempt to extend the powerband of this much larger engine a bit further, as this is more of a weekend-warrior/drag strip car now-a-days instead of it's old daily-driver duties.

In the meanwhile, the car is plumbed and ready to roll with a 50-shot direct port. The bottle gets filled tomorrow, and if I have any time later this week, we will be testing it out.

Stay tuned!

- Derek

P.S. Here's what the new setup looks like.

 

Looking good.

Pm'd.

 

im thinking pro 3's and a good p&p/valvejob would help carry torque further. looks like a hell of a good start for a project, also before you tear it down,you should take it to the track with the bottle and see what it does!!!

 

interesting to note that you say you had loses when moving the cams around. I had recently started a thread about cam gears and it was my understanding that with larger cams you either move one or the other, sometimes not even at all, I think its awesome that 0,0 proved to work the best for you.

 

Wow, looks like the McNews dyno corrections have moved to IMW.

 

thats bad news for me in the near future!!!

 

If you get any where north of 190 whp then your car should run 12s.

 

Different engines like different settings. I'll bet the last engine that used this same head and cams liked different cam gear settings?

 

Unless you have an integra and are fat lol

Nice build/numbers, now uncork that bitch, you red headed ****.

 

Darnell, your dads car is once again, faster than yours.

 

Oh, I forgot you get the +500 lbs weight penalty, lol.

 

We cant all cheat like you and have a 2000lb car

 

gotta love ef's!!!

 

i demand a ride at some point.

ps - i will be seeing you in about 6 weeks hopefully.

 

lol i made 196 and ran 14.7

 

trap?

 

96ish?

its all good, with the help of steve (cc) and john/derek i should be fixing that all, come may.

ps - subscribed.

 

Lol, more like 2180 lbs.

The better your 60', the better your ET. Also, the highest rpm you can launch will definitely improve trap speed.

 

Word, steve hooked up me as well. Hopefully derek enlists him to perform some serious head work to this bitchhhhhhhhhhhhh and makes mad hp.

 

I think you're lying, i heard that the higher your 60' was the better your ET.

5.0 60' > 1.5 60'

 

Lol, street tires are were it's at.

 

Idk about you but i can pull 2.0/2.1s all day on craptastic street tires in my sled , when i spoke to you at etown and you said your car was only pulling 2.5s or so, i really wanted to ask you to let me drive it to see if i could hit some 13s on street tires but i couldnt find you lol.

sorry for cluttering your thread derek.

 

196 on a dynopack?

 

I already know where youre going with this. Not all dynopacks (dynapacks) read high. Some read right on par with dynojets, some lower than dynojets.

 

bolt your hubs to RLZs 'pack and see if your **** doesnt make weedwhacker numbers.