Ok, I drive an 89 honda Accord coupe DX, yes dx, which means that it is carbed, now i rather than go efi swap style i decided to go old school. I have a weber carb conversion on the way (damn USPS). I am contemplating getting the parts together for a homemade low psi turbo, do you folk think it is possible? how am i going to deal with fuel issues with the carb, this whole turbo carb issue is out of my league mechanically and who better to confer with than the turbo gurus at hondatech, lemme know
peace

 

lol damn bob thats terrible
u do realize even with a turbod engine the lumina would still walk on you and if it didnt id just hook up the propane!

 

Turbocharging a carb is very easy... and to an extent, is easier than fuel injection. While carbs are archaic and won't yield the most power per pound of boost, it is very possible and can be done quickly, cheaply, and with some thought, safely.

1st item of buisness is where to put the carb in relation to the turbo. Some like to put it upstream of the turbo, because you don't have to worry about pressurizing the carb or the fuel system, but the consequences outweigh these benefits- near impossible starting when it's less than 60°, puddling of fuel inside the compressor snail, lean running, can't use an intercooler, and poor throttle response.

Putting the carb downstream of the turbo is easier because you can keep the stock location and orientation. Hell, you can even use the stock carb!

2nd order of buisness: Preparing the carb for boost. Since we're using a blow through setup (carb after turbo), you'll have to do a few small things to the carb to make it boost friendly. 1st is to fill the float with foam (if it's a hollow float) and then seal the hole. This will keep it from imploding under boost. 2nd is to pressurize the butterfly shaft holes where it goes through the carb body. This can be done by tapping into the throat upstream of the venturi and running some small tubing down to the body that surrounds the shaft and tapping into that. This will keep boost and fuel from weeping out from between the shaft and carb body.

Some people think a bigger carb is better, but I disagree. For 99% of the turbo/ carb applications, the stock carb is fine. If you go too big, you lose vacuum and won't be able to draw fuel...

3rd order of buisness: Fuel management. Carbed fuel systems run at a whopping 4-6 PSI. Let's say you want to run 7 lbs. of boost. This will not work because the boost the turbo generates will force the gas back into the tank. You'll need at least 7 PSI of fuel pressure plus the stock 4-6 PSI of fuel pressure for a grand total of 11- 13 PSI (for 7 lbs. boost). The stock fuel pump absolutly will not give you this much fuel pressure, so what you'll need is an inline pump downstream of the stock pump and an FMU, again- downstream. Install the pump and FMU like you would in a fuel injected car.

4th order of buisness: Ignition management. If you have a vacuum advance distributor, you're kinda screwed... time to convert to distributorless ignition! Check valves, ala the Honda MAP trick, may work, but I'm not sure... Othewise, do the same as you would with an FI car.

That's pretty much it. If you actually follow through with it, you'll be one of only two aftermarket turbo carbed Hondas I've heard about.

 

Hmm,

I have often wondered if an FMU with an inline pump would work. I figured it might. Will the method you describe work on Webers? I am convincing my buddy to do an mLPT (modified light pressure turbo) on his 73 911S... The car already is fast... easy very low 13 sec car.... 2.7L with mLPT turbo

 

It would work on any carb. Webers take particuarly well to boost, from what I've read and seen.

 

great thanks! Know any good webpages about this? I am looking for some now....

 

I don't, but if you want to do some reading about turbos, lurk here and talk to this guy... he knows his ****:


Buy it for $25 here: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...books&n=507846

 

Excellent read!

 

that was the besrt post i think i have ever read on this board, most people just blindly say it isnt possible, So you tellin me theres a chance... hehe. I plan on doin it but, money is becoming an issue, but peice by peice it will happen, what kind of turbo do you think i should use, right now i plan on an ole dsm one, any suggestions?

 

Oh hell yeah, there's a chance! BUT... is your engine up to it? If it's got more than 100K miles, I'd seriously consider new rings and a hone job first...

That's the great thing about parting together a turbo system- you don't blow $3000 all at once. But DO NOT skimp! If you're unsure as to weather you should buy a part (ie- wondering if you can squeak by without it), buy it!

Depends on what you want out of the car... That's the first thing you have to look at- What kind of performance do you want out of the car, and then... can you afford it? Your budget should dictate how wild the setup is, but it shouldn't dictate how reliable it is. To answer your question, though- DSM turbos are good and cheap. Just check for shaft play, coked bearings, and cracks in the hot side housing.

 

boosted my sohc at 120k it is now 137k and almost a year later on 6 psi and still pulling strong

edit: how would i go about doing this on my go cart with the B&S


[Modified by CovertFI, 10:51 AM 8/19/2002]

 

There are exceptions to everything, I suppose... Cool that it works, though!

Find the smallest turbo you can and do what I outlined in my first post in this thread.


[Modified by CovertFI, 10:51 AM 8/19/2002][/QUOTE]

 

Read Maximum Boost by Corky Bell, it's got a chapter or 2 on this.

 

you have to make sure your motor is up to par first. i check my compression and all 4 cylenders were less then 5% off. so i was good to go