How do I remove the sway bar link from the lower control arm?
I'm trying to remove the sway bar link from the lower control arm. The bolt on top of the link keeps on spinning when I use my impact on it. The other side by the bushing also spins, How do I get this link off?
bolt should have a hole for an allen key to fit in on the front of it. Make sure it's in there perfectly; I rounded the hole out on mine b/c the key wasn't in snug enough. Hold the key tight and slide a box end around there and get turning.
I ended up just torching off both links and replacing them lol.
I ended up just torching off both links and replacing them lol.
make sure you spray that down lightly with some PB blaster or a penetrating oil of some kind. I usually can get them off with out problems on many different cars but some times they just won't budge. I dont know if there is a keyway for an allen head, or the end of the stud has an area for a wrench. If it has neither of those, worst case scenario you can break the link off with a pry bar and then use some vise grips to get it out , then replace with a new part.
You put a wrench on one nut, your impact on the other and hold on..
One of them will come off. Then, you pry up or down, depending on what nut came off, until you can see enough of the body of the link to put a set of vice grips on it. Clamp that mother down on the center of the link. Put some PB or WD-40 on the remaining nut let it soak in and then go to town with your impact.
If your not going to reuse any of the bushings or nuts you can use an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch and cut them off. Takes 10 seconds. Or you could just use a bit of heat on both the nuts to help free them up.
I'm a big believer in the adage that a little heat will go a long way. I would prefer an Oxy-Acetylene setup myself but it's a bit much for me at the present time. My little propylene BurnzOmatic Betty will do. She's helped me with more than a few rusted or corroded nuts & bolts.
IMO, If your going to get one of these small bottles make sure it's the yellow bottle Propylene Fuel (3600F) not the blue Propane Fuel (3400F). Personally I've found the propylene heats up much faster and burns cleaner than the propane.
One of them will come off. Then, you pry up or down, depending on what nut came off, until you can see enough of the body of the link to put a set of vice grips on it. Clamp that mother down on the center of the link. Put some PB or WD-40 on the remaining nut let it soak in and then go to town with your impact.If your not going to reuse any of the bushings or nuts you can use an Oxy-Acetylene cutting torch and cut them off. Takes 10 seconds. Or you could just use a bit of heat on both the nuts to help free them up.
I'm a big believer in the adage that a little heat will go a long way. I would prefer an Oxy-Acetylene setup myself but it's a bit much for me at the present time. My little propylene BurnzOmatic Betty will do. She's helped me with more than a few rusted or corroded nuts & bolts.
IMO, If your going to get one of these small bottles make sure it's the yellow bottle Propylene Fuel (3600F) not the blue Propane Fuel (3400F). Personally I've found the propylene heats up much faster and burns cleaner than the propane.
I'm trying to remove the sway bar link from the lower control arm. The bolt on top of the link keeps on spinning when I use my impact on it. The other side by the bushing also spins, How do I get this link off?


Last edited by kurtdaniel; Aug 23, 2010 at 03:01 PM.
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